GMC - Sierra :: 1999 - Window Rolled Down By Itself And Now Won't Roll Back Up Again
Dec 5, 2014
Recently had a driver's side window replaced in my 99 GMC Sierra. Also had the regulator and a door handle replaced as they were broken as well, but I knew this going in. Was informed I needed a new master switch and had them order/install.
Today I turned the key on and the window began rolling down on it's own. I hit the switch to stop it, which it did, but only as long as I held the switch down. Now the window is all the way down and will not roll back up. Passenger side window works fine from either switch. Door locks work as well for whatever that's worth.
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I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy. Today I rolled my power front passenger window down and it's still there. Main Control panel on driver side won't roll it back up and passenger switch won't roll it up either. All other windows and locks work fine and I do not hear anything when trying to roll the window up. Does this automatically mean the motor just went out all of a sudden?
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So for some reason today, my passenger (front) window decided that it doesn't want to stay shut when I auto roll it from both the driver and passenger side switches. It will go all the way up, and then roll back down approximately 2-3 inches like it is doing a pinch protection. If it is rolled all the way up manually it stays up. I have visually checked the track and don't see any obstructions, which I didn't expect to find since it will stay up when done manually. Is there something I'm missing or an easy fix?
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I have a 2007 GS 350 and i bought the weather tech window visors for my car with matching floor liners. Both look great on the car but I am having problems with the window visors. Since installing them (following the directions letting them sit for a week or so without opening the windows) I still don't have the automatic feature back to roll up in one click of the switch. once it hits the top of the window the safety feature kicks in and the window rolls back down. if i hold the window switch all the way it will close. I am trying to get back that one click and automatically closes. my friend has the same visors on his is 250 and his still works fine.
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I have a 97 xlt fully loaded. Have been noticing once and a while the battery drained enough not to start. Have been attributing it to my son not turning off the dvd player in the back. I was wrong. Went out this evening to pick up company van, and the truck was dead. When i reached in to unlock the door, i accidently pushed on the power window switch and the window rolled out....key was not in the ignition. It quit when I opened the door.
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I have a 2006 F-150 5.4L Extended Cab. The windows have to be rolled up by hand and would like to know if there is a way to converted to power window and maybe locks too.
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I rolled up my left rear window a week ago and got a serious pop and crunch from it. I now have taken the time to take it apart and found that the cable has snapped and the carriage is in pieces. I'm not going to bother replacing any of it. To the point.. the motor has a crap load of wires going to it. I would like to get rid of it all together, brace up the rear window(s) and never look back. Is there any reason why I could not just unplug and remove the motor and its control or is there something else running form or through it too?
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I just finished doing the actuator repair on the passenger lock that was explained on this site. Put everything back together and checked my window. The window rolled down, but nothing for up. The switch on the drivers door would not work the window either. Pulled the switch apart and with my ohm meter was getting power to switch, but no other wires gave me a reading. So I figured it was my switch and went down and bought a new one. Put new switch in nothing. I then tried the drivers door switch and window worked? What to try now. I pulled fuse #7 that is said to be for my windows/locks during all this and all the windows except the passenger worked????
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My driver side window makes a noise when it is being rolled down. About half way down, it sounds like it is rubbing against something. This noise only happens when it's being rolled down, not up. The funny thing is, this noise started happening after I got a sub installed. I doubt it has anything to do with the installation but just wanted to point that out. Could it just be that it is dirty inside? I also have my windows tinted but the noise came way after that.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Super Crew. Last year it got really cold (2 degrees) and I went to roll down the driver's side front window to get ice off of my mirror. Something broke and my window fell down into my door. I was able to fish the window out and it rolls up and holds the window in place. It will go down a couple of inches, but when it falls it kinda falls forward and then to the bottom.
I have the panel off again right now because my wife used my truck and forgot about the window and I had to go through the process of getting it out again. So I figure now is a good time to fix it.
What broke and what I need to do to fix it? As I say, it will catch and work fine once I pull the window to a certain height and then it seals just fine as long as I don't use it. I looked at other threads and none seemed to fit exactly what mine is doing.
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Passengers can roll down the power windows on front passenger door and both back doors. But, they cannot roll the windows back up. The only way they can do that is to have me do it from the driver door. The window lock button is unlocked. I am thinking some is wrong with the driver main window controller since it all goes back to it.
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I bought my GS new and it has 40K miles now. It is a 2010 GS AWD. Yesterday I get off work, a hot day, I get in the car, started the car, and passenger front window rolled down by it self. I tried to rolled it back up and it would not go up. I shut the car off and re-started and was able to roll it up.
I thought maybe it was the heat. The next day it happened again, but this time while I was driving. There are no funny noises coming from in side the door and no water has ever gotten in there. I also never leave the windows cracked instead I raise the sun roof up for heat to escape. I find this very odd self-operating window. The rest of the windows work just fine.
Battery has never been disconnected. what may be causing this window to operate on its own? a lose wire maybe?
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Everything I've seen in the forum refers to alarms activating and how to turn them off, my problem is the opposite. Last year I performed a simple injector cup procedure on my 2000 7.3 Excursion which took about 3 months, during which time I had my batteries removed. When I finally buttoned everything back up I noticed that my alarm does the "chirp", but that I can leave a window rolled down and open any door without it going off. How to get this to reset? I can hit the panic button and get the alarm, but as a security feature it's not working.
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A couple of months back my driver side window began to make this terrible squeaking noise when rolled up and down. I noticed that the noise is not as bad when it is cooler out and when I run my car through the wash with wax (just an option they have at the carwash place).After some internet research I believe that the problem is with a part of window regulator mechanism.
There were a couple of options available to me:1. Replace window regulator mechanism (great instructions on pelicanparts.com). To do it on my own is about $80 (part cost) and 5-6 hours of work or $600 at the dealer's. 2. Locate the motor of window regulator, open it and clean it. Probably 5-6 hours of work, but $0!!!3. Open the door, clean inside and grease the tracks.
I opened the door and cleaned the glass and tracks – no result! I brought it back to the dealer (car is not under warranty anymore) and they were nice enough to open it again for me and grease the tracks – no result except for marks on my window and the verdict that I need to replace the regulator mechanism….
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Hopped into my truck last night after unlocking with the key fob, the easy exit is turned off, and the drivers seat was rolled all the way back and lowered. Mirror might have been off its mark too. Seat back was fine, not reclined. The seat change position like this? Never happened before or after, software? Bumped stuck adjustment switch, other???? Doubt having key on the same frequency and did it for fun as my laptop was in plain view and not stolen...
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The one thing I haven't been able to figure out is how to get the automatic window roll down with the FOB with the Vag commander software. I've done some cool stuff with the cable so far but this is the only thing I cant figure out.
The cable is not compatible with the Rostech software that handles the b6 and no I don't want to buy a rosstech cable.
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I have replaced the passenger side motor and regulator for the window (at the dealer) on my B6 Wagon. Now the windows doesn't roll all the way down. You can still see about 1" of glass when is all the way down. I called the dealer and VW of American and they said these are the upgrades parts and that is why does not roll all the way down. They said that there is nothing else they can do
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I have a 1996 buick lesabre and the windows on the driver side will not roll down. Front and back. When I push the front window button it clicks but nothing more and when I push the rear window switch nothing happens. I use this car to deliverer mail and it gets really hot inside.
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No codes, no obvious troubles other than, when I use the power window control on my 99 passat to control the driver side rear window, I have to hold the button down sometimes for 1 second, sometimes for 15 seconds before it actually moves. If I try to operate the window from the actual button on that door( the rear door), it works fine with no hesitation or sticking. No, the safety lock is not on. I am guessing it is something electronic but as there are no burnt fuses or damaged wires, I am left confused.
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I've been having the strangest problem in the morning of the first start up of my car. For some reason i hit the window button to roll the windows down and they don't go down I wait 10 sec. And hit it again and they come down.
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