GMC - Sierra :: 1997 Won't Go Into Park / Lever On Trans Stops At Neutral
May 25, 2011
My 1997 3500 shifts down normally through all gears but when I put it into park the lever on the trans stops at neutral I can then click the lever forward to rev.and park.
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2009 corolla le won't shift into park. Disconnected linkage and works good. Lever at trans moves smooth in every gear except park.
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My Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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What may have wrong with my trans on my truck... this is what its doing, I am able to put in drive and drive it for so long then its like the truck is in neutral and doesn't gain or maintain speed. but i can turn the truck off and put it in park and restart the truck and it will go again?? that is how i got it home....
the fluid is burnt now but wasn't that bad until the trans started doing this. I have pulled off the pan and inspected the filter and it does have metal debris in it, pulling the valve body off tonight before work (work 3rd shift) to inspect that, i think it has something to do with the solenoids or valve body because it actually moves but then quits until i restart the truck. Also does the transfer case use fluid from the transmission? or are the fluids separated between the 2.
Truck has 4.0L SOHC with a 5R55E in it 4WD...
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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I have a 99' GMC 1500 Sierra SLT w/5.3 Vortec V-8 w/460,000 miles (yup !!) I bought the p/u w/59,000 miles, and the gear-selection lever on the column has always been hard to move when selecting gears. My daughter drives the p/u, and is hard for her to select gears.
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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Volvo Automatic 1992 240 - So, just started to back out of the garage and, all of a sudden, my gear shift got stuck in neutral and then started shifting without engaging the transmission at all. Pushed it back into the space and, taking a look underneath, I realize the control rod's completely detached from the lever in the transmission.
I can re-attach it, but it just comes loose again when I shift. It seems like something should be in there to hold the control rod in place with the transmission lever, but I don't know what because I can't seem to find any documentation on what everything should look like down there.
Attaching a couple shots, one with a circle around the area that's coming un-attached since the angle's a bit off.
Attached File(s)
IMG_8972.jpg ( 1.09MB )
IMG_8978.jpg ( 938.64K )
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I have 2004 V8 Phaeton when i press the brake the transmission lever stays in park after a few tries it goes into gear.. does this car have a neutral safety switch or what could be the possible problem.
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I searched for a prior post on this without success. I have a serious problem with my '04 V-8 transmission shift lever being stuck in Park in cooler weather. Ny wife is the primary driver, and on some cooler mornings it is almost impossible for her to move the shift lever out of park. She has to let the car warm up a bit, and then move the lever around a bit with all her might before it will finally move out of park. The dealer can't figure out what is wrong. It only appens when the temperature is below about 50 degrees, and with winter approaching, frequent problems lie ahead.
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I have just bought a 2001 Prius with 127,550 miles. Hybrid battery has been replaced with a used one and all systems seem to work fine except the shift lever in the "Park" position does not lock the transmission. No big problem as long as the Parking Brake works. Preliminary investigation does not reveal any easy fix.
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I have a dead battery and the transmission lever is locked into Park, how do I overide to neutral in order to push the vehicle out of the garage for jump start?
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I searched for a prior post on this without success. I have a serious problem with my '04 V-8 transmission shift lever being stuck in Park in cooler weather. Ny wife is the primary driver, and on some cooler mornings it is almost impossible for her to move the shift lever out of park. She has to let the car warm up a bit, and then move the lever around a bit with all her might before it will finally move out of park. The dealer can't figure out what is wrong. It only appens when the temperature is below about 50 degrees, and with winter approaching, frequent problems lie ahead.
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A few months ago I couldn't get the shift lever out of park without trying multiple times. Then it was okay for about 5 months now it is back and worse. It is not bound up because of parking on a hill or anything like that and I press very hard on the brake pedal. It take s multiple times to get it out of park trying turning the key on and off and so on. The truck only has 86,000 miles on it and the transmission has always worked perfectly.
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It's a few times in the past 2 weeks, the shift lever won't come out of PARK easily. Sometimes I have to wiggle the shifter for quite awhile before I can get the shifter to shift out of PARK. It also doesn't start when that happens, like everything works but it doesn't start. It's like it's locked. It finally lets go and I can start it and put it in Drive and Reverse and go on my way. But there's not set thing that I can do to make it work.
It's just luckily let me go the few times it's happened. We replaced the shift cable about 1.5-2 years ago and of course the cable is out of warranty. But even if it's the cable, it's definitely going into park because you can hear the click when you stop the truck and turn it off, and throw it into PARK. But when the shift get's stuck it won't crank or make any kind of cranking noise, it's like the battery is dead but it isn't. When it happens you can't even shift it out of PARK to try and start it in D or R.
So I was thinking something could be going on with the NSS. Is there any kind of brake pedal interlock switch on a 98 Ranger? I notice when I start it and press the brake pedal it clicks loud under the dash, which I don't remember hearing always. But maybe it always makes that click when you hit the pedal because I usually always have the radio on. What I can do if the shift gets stuck when I go to leave work? What do I need to look at to determine the problem?
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This may be an old question: is it beneficial to shift into neutral while coming to a stop in an automatic transmission? But, my new Ford Fiesta has a PowerShift 6-speed transmission that behaves differently from a standard automatic. According to Ford, it's "like two 3-speed manual transmissions put together, with the dual clutch and shifting components controlled electronically."
Since the PowerShift is really a computer-controlled manual transmission (without a fluid torque converter), it's actually in neutral when I'm stopped and the shifter is in Drive position. I can feel it disengage as I come to a stop. However if I try coasting to a stop uphill, the engine still pulls the car upward at low speed without my foot on the accelerator. So the computer has to judge when to activate the clutch.
The issue is, I tend to apply the brakes lighter than average and decrease speed at a slower rate to come to a stop. So I think I might be confusing the computer, working against the engine before it wants to disengage the clutch, whereas most people would come to a stop more abruptly and the shifting action would have no problem. This is why I shift into neutral early in my slow-down phase, so the engine doesn't have a chance of pushing the brakes.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
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I got a 2002 sierra 1500 with a 5.3l. I just replaced both catalytic converters and y pipe. After I did this, I am having a few problems. First, when slow down to park or at a stop sign the idle drops way down and it dies. I cleaned the throttle body, maf sensor, and ran a can of seafoam and a can of b12 chemtool through it. It did this for a couple of days and now when the idle slows down the "check oil pressure" light comes on before it dies. Then yesterday the "check oil level" light started coming on. Is this all related, would the low idle cause low oil pressure, where to start?
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1999 F-350 . My shifter lever is extremely loose, it will not go into park at all. I tightened the two torx bolts, adjusted the needle but its still bad. Im thinking the cable is loose, I saw that there is a small rod attached to the end. Is there a way to tighten it or do I need a new cable assy.?
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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