GMC - Sierra :: 1995 - Horn And Washer Fluid Aren't Working


Aug 26, 2011

i have a 1995 sierra 2500 gas series. then my horn and my washer fluid aren't working. i cleaned all my ground posts and put in new fuses. when i hit the horn, you can hear the relay switch clicking. and, when i first went to use the washer fluid, it squirted once, then stopped. i checked and cleaned all ground posts. i also used an ohm meter on both horns' plugs. there's power coming to the horns???

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The wipers work fine, but it isn't spraying washer fluid. It's 3 degrees outside. I am not sure if there is a fuse for the washer fluid sprayer motor...

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Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Front Wiper Washer Fluid Not Working

So my wife and I swap vehicles for one day and what happens? It snows like hell and she can't get any wiper fluid to come out!

I started some troubleshooting and missed some clear indicators of the problem.

->Rear fluid works
->No pump engagement when trying the front fluid

Wasn't sure if I had 1 or 2 pumps (separate front and back or just one) so I bought one, tore out the reservoir (that air intake was a tough one), swapped the pumps and PRESTO! Still didn't work.

This leads me to believe I should have realized it was switch/power related all along. I don't mind tearing things apart, but I'm not good with electrical. Should I just buy a new whole stock and see if that works? My fuse isn't blown and seems to also be for the power windows, which do work, so I think I should be fine from that point.

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Electrical-wiring - Hyundai - Fluids - Entourage :: 2007 - Washer Fluid Not Working

I just bought an 07 Hyundai Entourage (Kia Sedona clone) a little over a month ago. We had our first storm last week and my wife tried to use the washer fluid on the rear and it didn't work (it was below freezing). I looked at it and the front didn't work either (no noise from pump motor either). So I found out it has a pump for the front and one for the rear but they are on the same fuse. Checked the fuse and it was blown.

I thought maybe it was due to the fluid in the car freezing (no anti freeze fluid probably). Put the new fuse in, tried the front for about 5 seconds and it worked. Tried the rear for 5, it worked. Tried the front again, nothing. Tried the rear again nothing. Pulled the fuse again accept it wasn't blown. Put a couple of different fuses in. Nothing. I did this while it was above freezing...? could both pumps have burnt up at the same time? Is there any other fusible link between the motor and switch?

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I have a 2005 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke.

My washer fluid pump is not working, it was a few weeks ago but now it is broken. The Owner's Manual only has the listing fuse 33 for "cluster, 4x4, wipers". It looks like some of the older models have an actual fuse for the "washer fluid pump". I checked fuse 33 under the dash and it is ok. What fuse controls the washer fluid pump?

The pump does not make noise when activated, so I'm starting at the fuse but I don't know what the hell is going on.

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1989 Shorty - 3.0

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I know the motor works, cuz there is water all over the engine compartment (near the battery) and down... soaked there...

so, my guess is that the rubber has come off the pump? where is the pump first off, and second, how do I get to all that? - just remove the cowl?

any diagrams or photos would be great!

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I have a 1995 GMC that I have owned since new. It has 212,000 miles on it, a 305 TBI, and a manual five speed. It started running bad all at once. It idles rough, at different speeds and never settles down, (between 900 and 1300 rpm. It smells like raw gas, smokes, and has no power to get started from a stop. I checked the vacuum, it is at 19" at all rpms. The MAP sensor reads 0.3VDC when off, 4.12VDC when idling, and 1.5VDC at WOT. It appears to have 12PSI fuel pressure (after a messy test set up!) on the fuel pump side of the fuel filter (filter replaced 10,000 miles ago). The EGR valve appears to cycle OK when I suck on the vacuum line so I assume it works OK. I found a bad TBI flange gasket and replaced it. It runs slightly better but still smells like raw gas and has no power. When I try to accelerate, it immediately has no power, like a big vacuum leak. The idle is close to normal (900rpm = normal). Do I just start replacing parts?

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So, I was attempting to install license plate lights rather impatiently in a parking lot the other night at my weekly meet. I pulled out the factory lights, put in the LEDs, reconnected them, turned them on and all systems were go. I shut the lights off and at that point went and screwed the license plate light housings back into place and went and turned the lights on again, and they were not working, at all. I then decided to reinstall the stock bulbs and check it out, and they were not working at all either. So I haven't gotten to dig too much on this at all, but the headlights and taillights still work so I know it isn't the switch.

Plans for Tomorrow: Pull the light housings back out, take photos of everything, make sure all electrical connections are clean and looking good, and then try to get to the bottom of it.

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Then the one that really frustrates me: the rear defrost. I live in MI, so 75% of the morning I need it to clear either snow, ice or fog. The button works but the lines don't heat up. I checked them all for power and none have power. I also checked each one for breakage and continuity and they are fine. I saw somewhere that the connection at the module likes to fry but I inspected it and didn't see anything burned.

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