GMC - Sierra :: 1994 - Tuning Up - What To Change
Jul 29, 2013
I have a 94' sierra with a 350 cubic inch TBI. I've already replaced the thermostat, spark plugs, clutch and had the oil changed. when I bought it it looked like the plug wires and distributor cap had already been replaced recently. the big question is, other than replacing the air filter (which doesn't look like its in to bad of shape) what else should I look at doing to tune it up a bit? this is my daily driver/work/scrap hauling truck so I want to keep it running well and for a long time. there was a small metal hose that ran from my intake to the heat shield around my exhaust that got mangled pretty bad and just removed, what was it for and is it worth the expense to replace it? also I've seen ads for throttle body spacers, are they worth it? and would I need to make any changes to the ECU at all if I put one on or even put performance headers on it?
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I'm moving from Long Island (~0' above sea level) to Denver (~5280' above sea level). I know engines with a carburetor need a tuneup to compensate for the decreased air pressure so it doesn't run rich, but will I need to do anything special ( e.g. tuneup) to my car for proper performance? I don't really expect to because the computer should properly adjust, but I figured I'd see if maybe I should.
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I have a 1994 gmc sierra 4x4 5.7 with a rebuilt engine 2 yrs ago and it has started having a rough idle(surging/dies) I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, maf sensor, iac sensor, tps sensor, top half of the tb and injectors, distributor, ignition module, plugs and plug wires and still no change. Yesterday I cleaned the iac and seemed to straighten up a little but then got in it to go to work today and it was back to running rough again and seemed worse. I am at a loss.
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The driver side track on the bottom of the window has rusted out on my 1994 GMC Sierra pickup. Every place I've talked to that is supposed to handle glass repairs either doesn't fix this kind of thing or just plain doesn't want to attempt to fix it. The only advice one place would offer is to buy a new window with a good track on it, but how to get the old one out without breaking it or putting a new one in. I know they sell just the track for these windows, but I don't know how to remove the old one without breaking the glass.
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When my truck is slowing down my manual transmission makes a knocking sound, but does not make the sound when accelerating. What could be the problem?
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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About two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
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I have a 2003 prius, lost audio, radio seems to be tuning the stations ok, just getting no sound.
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I keep trying to go on ecs tuning and the home page is fine but when I try to go into other parts it takes ages and sometimes says an error occured and does not work...
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I have purchased this front brake kit from ECS tuning and installed them on My 2006 Passat, After I installed them and took for test drive and initial breaking is good better that before bat notice some squeaking when rolling slowly like before stop light, only on light applying break pedal not if I have to hard break, I said maybe they need too wear in or so... It now more that month and squeaking is becoming worse. Is it bad kit or something else that causes this problem...?
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune. Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi. Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slow and boost won't work. I'm not sure what else I should get to restore my car to perform fully.
I'm currently on the factory ko3 turbo and the previous owner had nitrous hookups and lines to the motor.
I'm already 3k into fixing it. Needed new shift cables and a fresh transmission
I'm hoping to push about 250hp maybe 300hp
The boost problem is fixed once I turn the car off and back on. I just want it to work again without having to spend an arm and leg on parts and labor. My mechanic works at Volkswagen dealership. But isn't allowed to work on my car due to dealership policies about working on vehicles older than 10 years old. The guy who tuned my car professionally at an apr shop told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that) for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start.
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After all this time there's only a couple things about my 2012 6.7 I don't like, and one of them is the DEF system. I like the lack of smoke, and I REALLY like my warranty, but I don't like the acrid DEF exhaust smell and I don't like the amount of DEF fluid I'm going through.
So, looking for a kit to remove the DEF system but leave the truck otherwise untouched? I'd like to keep the DPF and not have to tune the truck, just eliminate the DEF and smell diesel fumes again.
I'm guessing this is a long shot given the amount of computer control of every aspect of the truck, but figured I'd ask anyway...
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I have a 2003 Passat W8 with the Monsoon system and today I had a new problem pop up with it. On my way to work this morning the steering wheel volume and tuning controls stopped working. I also noticed that the Heads up display in the center of the dash is now blank...it used to show the CD number and track number. I can't seem to find any blown fuses in the fusebox.. I don't have the removal tools but I was going to check behind the radio to see if there might be another fuse there...
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My sunroof opens and closes correctly. but when in the closed position it will be sunken into the cabin of the car a few MM not sealing to the body of the car tightly. how do I fine tune the sunroof to sit flush with the body when closed? some kind of adjustment screws?
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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Circumstances required me to make an emergency trip to Phoenix this week. On the way down, I first got the "Oil change soon" warning, followed by the "Oil change required" message a few hundred miles later.
I religiously keep my truck serviced on time, and have never had either of these warnings come up before. My truck had 2700 miles on it since last service was done when this first warning came up. My truck gets very little idle time, so it's not sitting idling for hours a day.
My question is, is this oil change message a result of an actual oil monitoring sensor that measures oil quality on-the-fly, or is it strictly based on a miles or odometer timer that gets reset when dealer changes the oil?
At this point I'm wondering if the kid that serviced my truck either forgot to reset a timer, or worse, just "pencil whipped" my oil change. I have to call my home dealer back, since the service manager wasn't in yet when I called.
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I just started having a problem with my 4wd.
When I push the button to select anything other than 2 hi, the indicator light for the selected range will flash for about 30 sec and then it reverts back to a steady light on the 2 hi button.
I have already replaced the pushbutton unit and nothing changed there.
How can I troubleshoot it from this point?
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Ac does not work. as soon as i start the truck the AC compressor goes on and off every five seconds ?
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I have this code on my gmc serria 6.0L. I have changed the O2sensor2 but the code comes and goes. Less frequent than before I changed it. I am wondering if the cataletic converter can be altered and remove the code. I/e drill it out, take it out?
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The truck has power steering when its turning to the left, but no power steering when its turning to the right. I've checked the fluid level, and there are no leaks that I can find.
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I have a 96 Sierra with the 5.7L (R) engine. My a/c used to work fine...no problems. Then it started to only get really cold at highway speeds, plus you could also hear the compressor running (kind of making a clicking sound) when you push the a/c button to turn it on. I thought that the system needed to be recharged, so I bought a recharge bottle at Shucks that has a low pressure gauge on it.
It says that the low pressure port is the larger of the two and will only fit on the low pressure port, but it will only fit on the smaller port (right side port when looking at the compressor). With the a/c on max, the gauge reads 110, so I didn't try to recharge the system.
Then yesterday, my a/c won't even cool at highway speeds. It just blows warm air. The compressor is running (I can hear it, and the clutch turns). I disconnected the switch on the evaporator and the compressor stops, then restarts when I reconnect the switch.
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