GMC - Safari :: 2000 - Max Blower Position Does Not Blow At All
Jan 19, 2015
Symptoms:1. The max blower position does not blow at all, but the other positions blow just a little (heat and a/c).2. The heater seems to take a bit to get going. Once it is hot, it seems to do okay.
Questions:1. What steps do I take in a logical order to fix this? Resistor, blower motor, thermostat, heater core?2. This is a loaner van from a family friend. Should I do anything to it? They want to sell it and I am interested in it, but I don't want to start fixing stuff if I am not going to own the thing - unless it is an easy repair under $100.
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My dad has a 2000 f250 4x4 with the 5.4. he said his blower would only blow on high. I told him it was his blower motor resistor. i thought it was under glove box. he took it apart and said no but there was a little box thing with wires he took off anyway and put back on. I then told him it was under hood below a/c lines. he replaced old one with a new one from auto zone and replaced the pigtail( plug too) fan works on high and a little bit on low very very little when u switch it to medium it stays the same. High works great. So we replaced the fan switch. (Radio was a bitch to remove) and it still does the same thing. I checked all fuses . when I check the plug at the resistor there is power to the center pin it stays on when u switch to low and medium but when u turn high on power goes out( on test meter) is there something I am missing? the blower blows on high even when u remove the plug from the resistor. Is that normal?.
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We have had this problem about 3 months. The ac blower wont blow at different times. When it does blow it blows as hard and cold as it should be, however random times when we get in the car and turn the ac or heater on nothing blows out. Occasionally when driving it will just come on but usually if when you turn the car on and its not blowing it wont. We have noticed in the morning it almost always comes on especially now that its colder.
However today after it blowing fine all morning when I got in the car and turned the ac on nothing happens, its about 80 today here. Yesterday it blew fine and cold all day and this morning the heat blew perfectly. Doesn't seem like the blower motor is out since it clearly works when it does run. Maybe a fuse or something in electrical that keeps shorting?
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Blower Motor quit, dual zone climate control system. AC will work with Recirculation mode off. Just won't blow.
Turned heater on still won't blow. Pulled and checked the following fuses: 37; 45, 37 & 15 which pulling these 3 reset the system; and pulled 24 in the battery junction box. Still not working.
Next plan is to pull Relay #1 from the battery junction box and apply 12v to see if it clicks - no click & then I'll replace it.
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The dash temp gauge reads in the middle between hot and cold within a few minutes of running. However, it takes about 20 minutes for hot air to come out the heater vents when the heater is set to maximum heat and the fan is on. What should I check and in what order?
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My 1997 XLT 4.0 AWD w/Rear A/C has been having a Blower Motor issue for many months. Occasionally the front blower does not blow. Banging on the Blower Motor, either from under the hood, or even from inside the van underneath the glove box, will start it up again. Once running, it continued running okay until at least the next shutdown. This has gone on throughout the summer. Sometimes a good bump in the road would start it.
Now that the winter is here, heat and defrost are more critical, so it has become a bigger problem. Furthermore, is is now almost constant, where it rarely works without a bang. So it is time to actually fix it now.
From other posts, I think it is either the Blower Motor itself, or the Control Module / Resistor. But since the control module is not located on the motor itself, where I bang, it is probably the motor. Question:
1 - What is the problem, and can I fix it with grease (elbow or actual) etc... or is replacement the proper option?
2 - Should I replace the wheel too, which is not available on RockAuto - but is on the junkyard options on eBay. Unfortunately those are often just as broken as mine. Generic Wheels are available in Auto Zone.
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My blower motor does not blow hard on high. 2009 AVALON.
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My blower doesn't seem to blow very hard. I've been in other fords and the ac and heat blows great. Someone suggested that that I pull the fan motor and clean the blades.
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2002 F150 XL... My heat & AC work fine, but the only position the fan selector switch will actually blow any air is on high. Bought an OEM replacement switch and installed it but the issue still exists.
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I have a 1989 towncar. The blower motor works in any selection (vent, panel, hi-low, mix, defrost) but does not work in the "floor" position. It also turns off in the off position as it should.
I changed out the entire climate control assembly with another one from a junkyard. I thought the function selector electrical switch might be bad. However, the blower motor still does not work.
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2005 F350 Lariat ..... I cant get my AC to work in my truck.
AC will not cycle on, Originally thought the system was low because I jumped the pressure switch and it cycled fine (But did not cool inside the vehicle). Checked the pressure and it was in the 40lb range on the low side. My blower will only blow on high but I assumed it was a defective fan speed control.. Possibly an issue with the climate control?
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I had a dead battery in my 2002 Solara. After I had it replaced the indicator lights on the dash would stay on. Also the fan blower will keep running if not turned off. So I have accessories running with the key in the off position. I have checked all fuses and they appear good. Bad ignition switch?
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Blower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
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I have an '03 F250 and the second position of the blower switch doesn't work. The first, third, and fourth are all fine.
I bought a Motorcraft YH-1670 blower switch, but can't figure out where it's located?
I looked behind the glove box, but didn't see it there. I did not remove the screws to the cover behind the glove box because I wanted to first confirm where the switch is located.
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My sister has a 2004 GMC safari van. A few months ago, the van started having a very rough shift and excessive revving. we took it to a mechanic who found a transmission leak. they fixed the leak and recommended that we use Lucas oil transmission fluid to work with the rough shift. since then things have gone from bad to worse.
The van will not go over 45 mph. the engine excessively at 35 mph. After 35 mph, it appears something also goes wrong in the electrical system. At 35-40 mph, my dash goes from lit to dark. Also i have lost the use of my power locks and since this issue began, i have lost use of 2 of 3 of my cigarette lighters. What is happening here??.
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I have a 1997 GMC Safari van with 175,000 miles on it. One month ago it wouldn't start. It would crank and crank but just not fire. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump start. I have other transportation available, so I just tried it a couple of times a day with the same result. Some history: about 5 months ago I had the fuel pump replaced. Finally I gave up and had it towed to the shop that had replaced the fuel pump. After it was unloaded from the flatbed, the mechanic tried to start it and it started normally. Since it started, I had an oil change done and had them check all the connections. Afterwards it started normally. I drove it for a few days with no problem and then one morning the same problem- cranking but not starting. Being stubborn, and with tight finances, I tried to start it every day for a week. Same symptoms. Finally today I had it towed to a different mechanic recommended by a friend. Of course, when it was unloaded from the flatbed it started right up. Any theories?
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I have a 96 GMC safari (Geneva). She just took me for a 17,000 mike road trip! Without a single problem. In California I nearly destroyed her bc I had no idea about engine breaking and I road the hell out of her brakes. So I replaced the calipers rotors shoes lines and fluid. Had a great trip on them cross country back to the FL keys. Since back I have had trouble with the brakes not functioning. Stiffness in the brake pedal and not reliable braking. Took her in recently and had both front ABS Boosters and sensors replaced. Now the brakes are holding and I could smell burning rubber after driving home from the mechanics. My mechanic has no clue what's going on and is suggesting I out new calipers on but is unsure that's actually the problem.
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This van has 200,000 plus miles doesn't leak any fluids but it has a cruising speed miss, that sometimes seems to want to shut it down I have had it in several shops and a g m dealer ship, so far no one has been able to fix the problem, it has had plugs, wires, mass air, coils all changed at least twice, the fuel pressure is 50lbs when I bought the van it had 76 000 miles and it had a miss then and has continued to have the miss , I have not had the injectors replaced is there anything other than injectors that could cause this problem? at speeds of 65mph and above it miss,s badley.
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2000 f150 heater only got warm.
Flushed system, new thermostat, new coolant. Then NO warm air. A/C blows cold. Checked heater blend door and actuator both intact and working. Heater core not leaking, system holds pressure and doesn't leak.
Is there another automatic valve that could be shutting off flow to heater core?????
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I have a 2000 suburban with a 1500 motor and 300000 miles. Last year I replace the water pump and the thermostat. The heater would blow warm but not hot . But only when I start to drive. Yesterday I decide to change thermostat again thinking the new one from last year was faulty. Now the heater only blows cold air .
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I took my car in for an oil change a few months ago when I was told the belt going to my a/c compressor was missing. It must have snapped off some time in the winter. I got the belt replaced and when I go to turn on the a/c I can hear it engage but the air that comes out is no colder than just having the vent on. A friend told me I just need to recharge the refrigerant.
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