GMC :: Occasional Ticking Noise From Engine Area In 1999 Pickup Truck
Jul 25, 2011
My husbands GMC truck has an occasional ticking noise coming from the engine area. The noise happens when you crank up although it doesn't always happen. It will sometimes go several weeks without ticking/clicking. When it does start, the sound usually goes away after the truck "warms up" for a minute. The ticking/clicking does not change pattern when you accelerate. The mechanic said it just needed an oil change, but my husband has made sure to check the oil.
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Today was the first time I was in my RX without the radio since I bought it. I have a 2011 RX CPO with 65000kms on the odometer.
When the vehicle is idling there is a tick-tick noise coming from the engine area that does not go away. I initially thought this noise was due to it being 0 Degree C but the noise continued for the duration of my 45 minute drive. Later in the day the noise was consistent was did not silence.
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It's a 2006 hyundai sonata LX.
Now Is it anything I should worry about? Car has 72000 on it. Always used synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30.
This is on a completely cold start up, 30 degrees outside. Only makes the noise until car warms up. Anything I can do to prevent this? Or is it not something to worry about? Should I just let the car warm up a little before I drive it?
[URL]...............................
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2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
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Having issue with an occasional whistling noise. Mine seems to happen once I get to 80km/hr(50mph) or above. Seems to be coming from the drivers side area around the side mirror or windshield frame. Being winter the windows and sunroof have been closed and it doesn't seem to be consistent so it's hard to figure out what could be causing it.
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97 Nissan Pick Up, 5 speed manual, 192k. The specified oil is 75w90. When it was new, I drained to factory fill out and refilled it with Mobil one 75w90 synthetic and a bottle of Slick 50 for Manual Transmissions (I do not use Slick 50 in the motor). This has worked very well for me in past transmissions. Anyway, at around 160k, I would hear an occasional whine when at a steady 55 mph on level ground. If the road grade changed or I changed speed, it would go away.
At the 180k oil change, I decided to check the the transmission oil level. It was bone dry. The capacity is 2.1 qts and it took 2.1 qts to fill it. I filled it with Mobil One 75w90 again. I have checked it at each oil change and so far, it hasn't lost any oil since I filled it. I still have the whine at 55 mph on level ground and it still goes away with any pitch or speed change.
Now my question, would there be any benefit to switching to a synthetic 75w140 or a conventional 85w140? I'm thinking that the 75w140 wouldn't change anything but the 85w140 might.
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My 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
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2004, 6.0, 96,000. I noticed a occasional clunking under the passenger foot area. The exhaust pipe is loose at the turbo connection on top the engine. It is swinging L & R & hitting the spring hanger & transmission cross member. Is there a rolled pin, dimple or other alignment device at the flange at the turbo???
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Came home from a 3-hour trip. Back in my garage my wife is outside while I maneuver the car into place, and she tells me she hears weird ticking, which I can actually notice myself as coming from the front right-hand side (sitting at the wheel).
Turns out when the brakes are applied, the car is not moving, and the shift lever is in D -- there is a ticking sound coming from the transmission area. Shifting to N or P or R -- no noise, only when in D. The ticking is not consistent, it's changing from slower to faster to slow again, no matter how much I put pressure on the brakes (it's not the brakes squeaking).
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1997 Acura Cl 2.2 ... Ticking noise coming from the dash board and glove box area ( sounds like blinker ticking noise).
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Got a 97 ford explorer sport that wont start. It will go like its going to start but I've only got it to run with ether then dies got new battery n tps thinking its the alternator because i hear a ticking in that area and the battery is now dead after i charged it all the way up granted. I did try consistently to get and keep running?
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2008 - <40k miles. Drove the car a good 50 miles yesterday with no problems. today as i was leaving the house, i kept hearing a ticking noise that was progressive in frequency the faster i drove it. i only made it to the end of my street, went back home to drive off in my gas guzzler for my 50mile round trip today.
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I have a mk4 R32 74k miles on it ... I recently brought the car to the dealer and I will never do it again !!! Never had any problems until now .. I brought it in for the radio and they diagnose the problem so they ordered me a new radio that's all they looked at and it's the only time it ever went into the dealership .. Today I start the car and I have a ticking noise coming from behind the center console radio glovebox area and I can't figure it out ?? I thought it was vibration from the motor so I gave it a little gas in neutral nothing ?? I turned the radio on and off still have the noise ? Turned on an off the climate control still have the noise ?? Don't know what it is ? Friends say it sounds like a relay that's coming on and off ??
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Having problems with a squeaking or ticking noise coming from the front windshield area on the passenger side? I took off the A-pillar and tweeter speaker cover, and the noise was still there. Pressing on the A-pillar did not work and it's not any of the cords or plastics in there rubbing. It almost sounds like it's behind the A-pillar. Pressing on the dash, windshield, headliner, etc. all have no effect on the noise.
I'm trying really hard to fix this myself because I'm worried about a tech tearing apart the dash trying to fix it. It might end up worse than it is now. I'm thinking this TSB will need to be done (which seems to apply to all Toyotas): [URL] ....
Next on my list to check is the passenger side mirror (make sure it's fastened securely) and also the black liner under the windshield wipers. I also have foam (like the kind you use when installing a window AC) which I may also try stuffing into the bottom of the front windshield (and maybe the top) to see if that works.
If all else fails, the car is going to the dealer I guess. The Camry is such a quiet car that the noise is really irritating in an otherwise quiet interior. Other than this noise, the car is great! Just a little bummed because my 2005 has zero rattles or noises and my gf's old 2009 also had no rattles or noises. The 2015 refresh is nice, though we're still on the fence about the front grille. My relative is waiting for the 2016's to be released later this year and then he will be buying one for his patrol car. The 2015 isn't a full redesign but it looks different enough that he wants to wait for the next MY to come out. He's dreading leaving behind his 5MT Civic but it needs to be replaced. He hasn't had an auto, ever, come to think of it..
It sounds exactly like this, and is at its worse when accelerating: [URL] ....
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Ive been looking around for Pickups for a wile now and found one (at the manheim auto auction) and it is a beauty. Crew Cab Long Box lariant with every factory option available for a 2008 6.8L Triton V10 truck. AND it only has 64,000 miles on it!!!
Pre Sale Inspection told us the truck has the upper engine tick that is heard sometimes in the V10. Doesn't seem to at all affect drive ability. Block announcement would be Green light, yellow light for upper engine noise. Truck has been priced accordingly. Look at what MMR is.
What this is, id like to put an offer in on the truck but if at 19,600 dollars if i am gonna have to do a lot of motor work or put a new motor in it i dont see it being worth it.
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So I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
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I have a tick in my 2001 V10, 190,000 (mostly easy) miles. I've changed oil/filter regularly at 3,000 mile intervals using Valvoline 5W20.
The tick seems to be on the passenger side of the engine, and is loudest when the engine is cold. It follows engine speed. The tick seems to be loudest as the engine transitions from acceleration to deceleration when I lift the throttle--I've NOT seen that posted before.
So, an exhaust manifold leak seems to be the most obvious? I installed a Banks Power Pack with Torque Tube headers in 2009 (about 90,000 miles ago) using thread lock compound on the supplied bolts and torqued to the instructions--I don't' remember the torque setting, but will look it up. I've listened to each exhaust port with a mechanic's stethoscope, all I hear is a smoothly running rotating assembly! Same result with the stethoscope on either side of the front cover (for timing chain slap.) NO tick through the stethoscope! I plan to check all the header bolts' torque this weekend, but don't really expect to find a problem. I will also scoot under the truck and recheck all the exhaust pipe clamps.
I've also listened to all the injectors--two of them (#3 and #4) were noticeably quieter than the other eight. But, none of them stood out as being particularly noisy. I've seen a couple of threads here that asked what a normal injector should sound like, but never an answer. How they should sound?
I've listened to each coil. I can hear a slight arc on #3. I believe the spring in the boot is not seated on the coil tab correctly (happened before.) I will correct that this weekend also. Nothing sounded like a loose plug, though I don't really know what that would sound like with the stethoscope.
What else could/should I check to avoid removing the valve/cam covers? (For cam follower or rocker trouble). I don't mind doing that, but don't want to go to the trouble and then find it wasn't necessary. I may spin on a Motorcraft filter (I'm just 800 miles into the last oil change now, I usually use Fram) but the tick stays with me until the engine is normal operating temperature, so I don't think it is from bleed back.
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My husband's 04 F150 has an occasional ticking/clicking sound that comes from the right rear tire. It occurs in both drive and reverse, while braking or while driving and will stop with braking. We cannot establish a pattern. Brakes are good, we just checked them and they do not need to be replaced. We took it in to be evaluated, of course it did not make the clicking while they had it and they did not see anything to indicate an issue.
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I have a 1996 Chevy pickup with a 5.7 motor. I pulled the plug, oil is draining and I usually lift the hood; but this time I didn't (don't know why). Something came up and we had to leave quickly and we jumped in the truck and got 1/8 mile down the road, I pulled the plug on the oil. Turned around and parked it - the oil filter was still in - so there should of been some oil in there!?!? Do I need to be concerned that I damaged anything?
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My alarm started going off by itself and my truck would not start so we unhooked the horn but the alarm was still trying to go off making a ticking noise when the horn should have been honking. so we also unhooked the alarm. And it started right up. I've been driving it with those things off with no problem. But today it wouldn't start again and its making a ticking noise like the horn is trying to honk.
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Hearing a "metallic knocking"-like sound coming from the pillar-area behind the driver and/or passenger seats? See this thread: [URL] ....
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