GMC - Envoy :: Rough Idle / Vibrating Strongly Enough To Rattle The Mirrors And Glass
Feb 8, 2013
I have a 2004 GMC Envoy w/130K+ miles that just went in for maintenance. One of the things my mechanic was fixing for me was a rough idle, vibrating strongly enough to rattle the mirrors and glass. He replaced a very loose and failing water pump, and I will say that the idling is better, but it's still a little rough. The one problem was hiding another. Once I accelerate, no problems; nothing in park or neutral, only idling in drive. No CEL, no codes from the computer. My mechanic thought engine mounts might need replacement.
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I have a 97 3.5. A few years ago something in the drive train started vibrating/resonating strongly when the engine RPM's reach about 1800-2000. I can feel it most in the gas pedal but it also resonates through the dashboard and sometimes makes the dash cover buzz. It didn't start out faint and get progressively worse, just started one day and has been there ever since and hasn't really gotten worse. Actually started after replacing my plugs, wires, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I originally thought engine, then I thought maybe it's in tranny, but it's worse when a/c is on although compressor is quiet and works great.
More info: has 198k, runs like a champ, no hesitation; tranny replaced @ 104K
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I just bought an 2006 f150 4x4 with a 5.4l 3valve, and this morning when I pulled into work it was idling Rough as I let off the gas and rolled into my parking spot. No check engine light or nothing, just when it's in gear Rpm is at 600-700 and vibrating. When I shifted it into neutral or park it went away and the engine ran smooth. According to the oil pressure gauge I've got good flow. I was told from the dealer that they replaced the cam phasers, timing chain and put new spark plugs in it. What the issue is here?
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So this morning I replaced my puddle lights with some leds. After a pretty simple install I was driving around and notice one of my mirrors vibrating so I reached out to pop it into place and noticed that my mirrors are hot (not from the sun but def the heating element).. Could have done anything diluting the process of changing the puddle lamps to make it where these heaters stay on all the time. For all that I know they could have been on all the time even prior to the install as I don't touch the mirror very often.
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Was lucky enough to pick up an 08 with only 26k miles 3 weeks ago from Virginia. I've gone through and swapped LEDs for all of the interior LEDs. Last night I finally had the time and I put VLED flank bulbs in the puddle lights under the mirrors. Today when driving I noticed the mirrors are vibrating significantly, so much that I have to readjust them back into position.
I don't see where I could have broken anything to cause this. I know there's some adhesive on the back of the mirror and wondering if I should go ahead and replace this? Or did I just not fit the glass back in 100%?
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I Have a 2000 Passat 30 valve v6. I got a low oil pressure message figured I could make it to the store for some oil. Well I turn a corner and heard a valve rattle and the car started to idle rough. I was two quarts low but the noise and the rough idle still exist. In neutral the noise is not noticeable. Driving the noise is only noticeable at high RPM. The car doesn't smoke and otherwise runs fine.
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So I recently bought a 2010 Chevy Silverado LTZ with 31,000 miles (5.3l engine). After having the truck a few days, I have noticed a couple of problems ...
1) I have noticed there is a rough idle in the passenger seat while the truck is in drive. Once the truck is started and driven about 5 minutes, once you come to a complete stop in drive (ex. stop light) a rough idle over takes the truck. You can feel this idle a lot more in the passenger seat than in the driver seat. The RPM gauge also fluctuates during the rattle.
2) At night my the headlights flicker randomly, on and off very quickly.
3) In the morning when I start the truck and drive it a bit, I hear a rattle which sounds like it is coming from the front right of the truck. Bumps do not trigger this rattle, which usually only lasts a couple seconds. I usually hear the rattle between 1,000 and 1,200 rpms.
I have taken the truck into the shop 2 times to get these items fixed, and they said they cannot feel a rough idle.
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I have a 2015 3IS which has about 5,000kms on it. Was wondering if any of you experience rattles/squeaks from driver's door glass when closed? Usually comes out on uneven roads or after going through a road where the chassis/body gets twisted a bit. I live in the mountains so the roads here are really twisty and has all those weird angles.
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Having issue with a moon roof rattle in the up position, sounds as if the glass is loose. If I slightly close the rattle stops. Not sure if I want lexus taking apart the moon roof/ head liner to repair. I may just live with it, but would like to get it looked at. 2011 LS 460 sport.
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I've spent a lot of time and money putting in nice speakers and audio equipment in my 2009 forester. I also got all of the rattles and vibrations out of the interior except for the passenger side door. I've used sound dampening and checked everything I can, but somewhere on the door panel there is a vibration that I can't find. So, the only thing I can think of its too seal the various seams on the interior of the panel with something. .. caulk or glass sealant?
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Door panel has been off a few times to see what is up. drove it down the road a few times with the panel OFF to see if I could find the rattle...and it was quiet. when the panel goes back on, rattle comes back.
Now...where should I look at? is it one of the lock/door latch rods vibrating against the panel? that is about the only thing I can figure...
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06' CC F-250... Manual rear sliding glass is pretty rough to open and close, other than cleaning out that track, is there a good spot to put a drop of white lithium grease? Do you have to yank off the rear interior panel to clean it out all the way or would a shop vac with a sharp tip do the trick?
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When sitting around in Drive at idle, my 2013 Camry is vibrating VERY noticeably at idle when the A/C is running. Turn the A/C off and idle goes back to normal.
I don't seem to remember this last summer - is this pretty normal for the I4 models? It seems to happen when the engine is at low RPM in gear and goes away if I blip the throttle or put the car into Neutral or Park. Even more shaky in reverse.
I usually run 87 octane, but have tried a tank of 89 and 93 with much the same result, but a little more power from a stop in hot weather. This feels very unusual for a 2013 car - my old 2002 Nissan didn't seem to even notice that the A/C was on.
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130k miles, 4 cyl camry LE 2006, im very good about my oil changes
The car gets a good amount of vibration while it idles, you can sort of notice it with the dashboard vibrating, I've known it was happening but didn't seem terrible so I hadn't put much thought into it. It also goes away when i get moving, but will sometimes get worse again at stop lights.
Today I was jumping a friends car (2009 mercury mariner), having both hoods open at the same time made the amount my engine was vibrating pretty noticeable compared to hers. Totally different cars, i know, but still seemed like it was a bit much.
My question is what areas should i be looking into as the possible culprit? What could possibly cause an engine to have more vibration as it ages? Just to clarify, it doesn't seem super intense, like about to tear itself off the frame, but just enough so that you would notice it.
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I am working on a friend's '92 Celica GTS Manual trans, and the massive vibration at idle is telling me its time for engine/trans mounts.
After some searching online..I finally found a place that shows all of the mounts. HERE
In that diagram, which of the mounts/dampers should I replace, and which of them never wear and can be left alone? Or, should I go all out and replace all of the rubber?
I have heard of going with poly mounts, and filling the old mounts with polyurethane caulk from HD, and all of that jazz - I'm not really interested in that - I want to stay OEM here.
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I am hearing a weird like vibrating noise when the call is in DRIVE during idle like at a red light or stopped position only. Noise goes away when placed in Neutral or Park. The cars gotta be in drive to make the noise... My car is a 1999 Passat V6 AHA engine code by the way, only 20K on it...
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I recently noticed that when at idle, the engine is vibrating heavily. I know for sure it was really smooth and now as if there is something loose in there due to which it is vibrating. I don't know what is causing this i have always keep changing oil myself every 10k miles and transmission oil at every 30k.
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Bought some power tow mirrows, aftermarket, any special on installing?
2011 F150 Echoboost, 4 x 4
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I have a Lexus RX 350 and about a month and a half ago I got the rack and pinion replaced. Pretty shortly after, as I was driving highways speeds somewhere in the 60-70 range, it started to feel a little rough, as if I was driving over rough pavement, but it was brand new blacktop. I put the brakes on and the vehicle started to vibrate, not the steering wheel though. After I braked, the rough sound and vibration didn't come back until a week or two ago, it's been happening intermittently and very seldom, maybe has happened a total of 5 or 6 times, but I'm concerned because it never did this before the rack and pinion. I got it all done on a Saturday, alignment was involved too, so I wonder if maybe someone hurried themselves and didn't do something to protocol.
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I have a 2006 Ranger XLT 3.0 that is vibrating hard/rough idling, cel is on (solid, not flashing), has trouble accelerating with pedal punched. Will sometimes get a sudden burst when pedal is punched with rpms going up but most of the time no to slow raise of rpms with pedal engaged. Hooked code reader up to it and read ignition coil. Replaced the coil and changed plugs and wires. Truck still not running right. what gives? Is this a fuel pump, cats clogged, cylinder issue?
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I'm replacing tow mirrors on my 2004 F250 with 2008 mirrors. Both are factory Ford mirrors. Need wiring diagram since connectors and wires are different. They both have power mirrors, turn signals, heated mirrors, but are not power retract or fold.
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