GMC :: 1995 - Would Shut Down With No Warning While Diving?
Apr 17, 2012
Periodically, for several months, either the truck wouldn't start or would shut down with no warning while diving. Now, it will not start at all. The symptom of the starting issue: the "wait to start" light would come on, but flicker off immediately. Until recently, the truck would start when the light remained on for several seconds. Now, I cannot get it to remain on and start. It is not the glow plugs or glow plug controller. Both have been tested or changed. I did replace the main ground wire to the starting motor. What should I look at next?
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I have a 1998 3.8L with 1995500 miles. When I go over big bumps there is a sound from my right rear that sounds like a diving board after someone has jumped off.
I assumed that is was the rear struts needing replacements so I asked someone to look at it and I mentioned the struts. Of course they said I needed new struts all around. I accept that.
What I want to make sure is that replacing the rear struts will fix the diving board problem and that these guys aren't just saying struts because I said struts and they just want the $$.
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I have a '95 Deville 4.9L and I recently started to get a low oil pressure warning at idle. It does leak a little oil but I try to keep up with it and I change the oil frequently. I replaced the oil pressure switch and the problem persists. I'm not positive, but I think I may have put 5W30 in last time I changed the oil, could that be too light? Should I try replacing it with 10W30?
I haven't tested the pressure yet but that oil pressure switch was a real pain to get out (and on) is there a trick to it? I've got a pressure gauge, that would be where I'd connect it, right? In hindsight I should have done that while I was replacing it. It runs great, no engine noise or smoke.
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Got a 2010 gti. Stage one with magnaflow Catback. This has happened three times now. Driving normal and fine then all of a sudden car says OIL PRESSURE SHUT OFF NOW. Then goes away after a second. Then wont happen again for a couple weeks. Why it would say this?? Oil levels are fine. Checked them. Took to a mechanic said everything on the oil side seems fine as well.
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My wife drives a 1995 Chevy Astro. It has twice now stopped running with no warning. This happened while driving down the road. The headlights and engine cut out, but the turn signals, power windows, radio display, and such have power. Once it sits for a couple of hours, it starts right up and runs fine for weeks.
Is there an electrical connection of some kind between the fuel pump and the headlights? What might be going wrong?
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My 1995 Chevy Silverado 1-ton diesel stalls with no warning at various times while driving, such as at intersections, on the freeway, coasting, idling. It may go days or weeks without doing it, then all of a sudden stall eight times in one day. My husband says it has sediment, such as rust, in the fuel tank causing it to clog the fuel line. We've replaced the fuel filter twice, and we keep the tank topped off with gas, but it still does this out of the blue at times. I no longer trust the vehicle and will not haul the horse trailer using it, which is why I have the vehicle in the first place. By the way, the problem began after the truck sat for several cold winter months due to drained batteries. After we replaced the batteries to get it running again, it began stalling like this on a semi-regular basis. If it is rust or sediment in the fuel tank, what can we do to fix that? Could it be something else causing the problem?
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Last night I was driving home in 12degree weather and I get a warning that said "Electronic consumers are being shut off" What is this and what happened? I checked the owners manual and cant find anything about it.
2004 V8 Touareg
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How to shut off all the "babysitter noises" a Treg makes when the lights are left on while parked, or when the door is open while car is running, seatbelt is not clicked while parked etc.
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4wd warning light flashes 3 times intermittently. Which error this means.
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2003 F-150 v8 4.2 4x4 with 295k miles ...
Yesterday while driving in town going 35-40mph my F-150 gauges spiked just before the engine shut off. While still moving I shifted to neutral and tried to restart, no go so I was able to stir to the shoulder and park, turned the key off. Sat there for about 30-60 seconds and the truck started up and I was able to drive off. [added] Forgot to mention, there was no check engine lights or anything, when I drove off, it was as though nothing happened. Not sure if it matters but temps out here was about 105 degrees and I was blasting the AC (which seems to take longer now to cool things down a bit).
I've had the truck since '04 and the second owner, been pretty descent with fluid changes and such, in fact was on my way for quick oil change when this happened. The tech there thought it could be either the alternator (battery is roughly 6 months new) or the ECM.
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I just got 500 miles to empty message. On my next trip out I grabbed a 2.5 gallon at my local auto parts store. When I had 99.9 percent of the jug in, it actually started to spit back out. I got the rest in and figured I was done. It did seem strange that it only took 2.5 as I figured it was just about empty to get this message and 2.5 would only take me half way. Anyways, a few trips later and the message is still there. Do I have a bad level sensor or was it spitting out prematurely? Shouldn't 2.5 gallons have killed the warning even if it didn't fill it?
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So I was driving home yesterday, drove fine for about 14mi. Then I got a oil pressure low warning light shut off engine. The engine sounded no weird noises or anything so I shut it off checked the oil and it was full and fairly clean. Started it back up sounded fine drove it almost all the way home and it came back on, again no noises and oil was full. I noticed though that it came on mostly coming to a stop or taking off when the rpms hit about 1500-1700.
So I went to the shop I work at and hooked a pressure gauge up and I got 15psi. At idle and 35psi. at 2000rpms. With the engine temp in the normal range. I got the spec from all data which only shows the spec for the 2000 rpm range no idle spec, which was 29psi-65psi I think. So it sounded like it was okay. So I went to advance got a new oil pressure switch it didn't work.
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I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 156K miles. The engine shut down without warning. Towed it to the nearest Ford dealership. They could not find any codes from the computer, but note that compression was lost in the left cylinder bank. The mechanics said the likely cause is a cracked cylinder head and this known to occur in my model year.
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I have a 2001 Sport Trac with the 4.0L engine and it's not producing a spark. The problem started when my dad was driving down the road and be claims it just shut off without warning, no sputtering, nothing. He had taken it to a shop and they had just come right out and said the engine went. My bf looked at it and he says there are no signs whatsoever of the engine going.
No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, we have replaced the ECM, coil pack, crank sensor, spark plugs, and checked the fuel. The theft light flashes every few seconds, not rapidly, so we ruled that out. The truck turns but doesn't start, when the key is turned to the "run" position, you can hear everything turn on, it just doesn't start. When it cranks, it isn't fast or slow, it's the normal speed from what I can remember so I'm not sure if it could be the timing chain or not. Where we can go from there?
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My 08 prius completely shut off while driving on the california freeways today. No warnings no lights on the dash nothing. Just powered off. Will not start the ready light of any dash lights for that matter work.. tried to jump it.. nothing working. What the he'll can cause thus.. I'm about 500 miles from home with a car just parked. Could a 12v battery cause this no start issue?
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Not sure what is going on but every few days the car does not want to start. It will start, then shut right off. if i try to tap the gas it's like there is nothing there and it shuts off anyway. Sometimes, not every time I will get the steering column lock defective warning. Then after a few more attempts, the car starts, runs fine, and will start fine for days in a row.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I took it to the dealership on June 30, for a routine oil change and other maintenance that was due. They did a cooling system flush, and oil change, a power steering flush, and a brake system flush, along with a multipoint inspection, and replaced the belt and tensioner. On July 18 on my way to work in traffic, the vehicle completely shut down with no warning signals. Shortly after the check engine light, the oil light came on. Until then, I had not noticed any warning lights.
At this time I reached down to get a bottle of tea from the passenger front floor board and noticed a slightly oily pink brown liquid on the plastic floor mat. When it was towed to the dealership, they tore the engine apart and reported that the engine overheated, the valve seats came off, the valves hit the pistons splashing metal onto the cylinder walls and requiring an engine rebuild. Is the dealership responsible for not having discovered whatever problem caused the engine to break down? Or causing it somehow during the maintenance on June 30? They feel it is not related.
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4.6 liter V8 limited.
Problem 1 : Driving into a small town I slowed to 35 mph and set cruise control to hold speed. Suddenly a loud warning tone/ beep sounded and the engine shut off. I coasted into a parking lot and restarted and drove the rest of the way home without incident. (another 1-1/2 hour drive). Could I have had an auto shut down because of a low fluid sensor or something similar?
My cold antifreeze was below the cold fill range but still was visible in the container. The temperatures were not high and the heater still worked. All other levels were normal.
Problem 2 : It also have an irritating buzz in the dash some where. Sounds almost like you would imagine a speedometer cable could sound, except no cable. Could it be the speedometer? It is intermittent and seems related to either speed or RPM.
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I've got some issues with my 2005 Toyata Prius (~150,000 miles). My wife was driving recently and the "Master Warning Light", the "Hybrid System Warning Light" and the yellow "Brake System Warning Light" all came on.
Some quick reading of the owners manual said we should take it to a dealer right away, but because it was a yellow, and not red, brake system warning light it seems ok to drive at least to a dealer. in regard to the yellow brake system light the manual said it could be that: "the regenerative brake system failed or that the hydraulic brake system failed".
Now, I have a cheap bluetooth OBD reader hooked up to the "torque" app on my phone and I thought I would try to see what error codes there were to learn more. But strangely, it did not read any fault codes. I've used this reader successfully on my 2001 Mitsubishi galant, but I'm not reading anything for the prius in this case. I'm not sure if there is legitimately no error code associate with the warning lights or if my app is just failing to read them for some reason.
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In my one-owner purchased-new 2005 Prius w/ 74K miles and w/ no maintenance/accident history other than doing all scheduled maintenances at Toyota Dealers along w/ recalls applicable at each time (other than we had Toyota replace the 12V battery last year just because I knew it would die at some point anyway and I don't like pushing my luck; I'm not 100% certain if there's been a recall on any water pump for this car and if so, don't believe the dealer has mentioned it), I have the following indicators which appeared all at once while I was driving along at around 45 MPH in no unusual circumstances (80F, dry afternoon, about 30 minutes into a trip of mixed speeds, no loads in the vehicle, no effect on the car while driving):
From Left to Right on the display:
1) Red Triangle - Master Warning Light
2) Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3) Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light (but it didn't highlight the word 'Brake' in red)
4) Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
On the Screen:
Orange Car w/ the ! symbol - Hybrid System Warning Light
We immediately aimed for the house (about 5 miles away); the car drove perfectly fine, with the engine stopping and starting at lights as needed, with speeds going from the 55MPH we were traveling at the time of the alarms down to 0 and back up thru 35/45 MPH and such per normal off-interstate driving. The battery currently shows all the blue bars, and the engine and hybrid systems showed charge/discharge as usual as we drove. There was no discernible change in the driving reaction of the car to brake, steering, accelerator, etc.
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1995 GMC Sonoma, 4.3L TBI 2-wheel drive Automatic. Will not go more than 20 MPH, will stall out and die if you try pushing on the accelerator. Had a code of 32 saying the EGR Valve. I bought and put on a new EGR Valve. Still does the same thing--no power and only 20 MPH. I'm wondering if it could be that the catalytic converter is plugged or maybe a bad fuel pump.
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