GMC :: 1994 - Reverse Lights Do Not Come On
Nov 6, 2013
My reverse lights do not come on when I put my truck in reverse. I got out my multi meter and there was voltage at the switch, so I put a jumper in the connector and the lights lit up.
Thinking it was a bad switch so I replaced the switch, still no lights. So the big question is : what to take apart to find whatever it is that pushes the switch.
The truck details are : 1994 GMC K1500 350TBI 5 speed, the reverse light switch is on the drivers side of the transmission.
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Ok so the GMC has another one of those tiny issues that we all hate to have. I don't know if its been this way since I bought it or if its just since we pulled the transmission to put on a new clutch, but my reverse lights don't work. Every other light on the truck works and I checked the bulbs and the fuses and found nothing. I even checked to see if the sensor wire was hooked up to the transmission since we pulled it out and it is.
I have an online subscription to Chilton's and have looked at the wiring diagrams time and time again and can't figure this one out. my real question at this point is how the switch in the transmission works, can I just rewire a bit and direct wire through it or does it have to go through the main harness somehow. the details on the truck are as follows: 1994 GMC K1500 5 speed 350 TBI.
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Nissan Pathfinder SE-V6 4x4 My blinkers quit working, but flashers still come on. All 3 brake lights also went out but tail lights still work. when the car is cranked and blinker is on there is a buzzing (alert) sound and the oil temp light comes up on the dash, there is no sound when the key is in the on position, only when it is cranked. Occasionally there is a crackle through the speakers that usually goes away when I turn it off. I don't know if the last part is relevant but I figured I would put it in anyway. Is this an easy fix or are there serious electrical problems?
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On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
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I have a 94 grand am 2.3 quad ohc 8th number in vin is 5 the car run fine in any gear except reverse. Soon as its put in reverse the car stalls right out.
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i have a 1994 nissan quest 3.0 v6 and when i put it in reverse or drive it will slip into neutral if i am stopped. Also the front motor mount needs to be replaced, which I will do soon. Are these problems related, if not how do i fix the shifter/linkage problem? When driving the vehicle upshifts and downshifts perfectly.
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT xcab with a 4.0 engine.It will take off and drive in the freezing cold but when it warms up it will only go in reverse.Once in awhile it will go into drive.What seems to be the problem. I had also backed up over a railroad tie in an icy parking lot but still drove away.
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My transmission has recently locked itself up in reverse. The shifter can easily shift through 1st-5th but if i attempt to drive forward it is still in reverse and works against each other. If shifter is left in neutral position it is still in reverse. If i push the clutch in the truck will move freely. I have taken the cover off of the tranny and all of the gears appear undamaged. It was dry however, and i replenished the trans fluid but it still is stuck in reverse. baffled.
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I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
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I just had a problem come up a few weeks ago where the check lights indicator comes on. We've narrowed down the problem to the white reverse lights not coming on when the car is in reverse.
I had my Phaeton mechanic look at it and he could not find the problem although apparently there is a resistance difference between the brake lights and reverse lights leading him to believe it may be the bulb holders (they are corroded).
The reverse lights connect to many modules so it could be anything.
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I recently got a 2wd 1994 150 straight 6 4.9L, It's been a great truck so far. It drove from New Mexico to California with no issues. Just this morning it started stalling and dying when pulling up to stop lights and putting it in reverse. The truck has 172,000 miles and has a new serp belt, alternator, radiator, and starter. It seems to run just fine on the highway and once it's warmed up it doesn't stall as easily. There is an exaust leak.
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I have a 1994 Rodeo that they can't seem to diagnose what is wrong with it. I love my Rodeo but lately when I start it (and it starts very quickly every day), the gas, battery and brake lights light up and remain on during the 5 mile drive to work. It is an automatic V6. I cannot use the power windows, wipers or the heat/air while these lights are on. Okay, I can use the windows and wipers but they move so slowly.
I have tried to sit and let it warm up thinking they would go out but nothing happens - the lights stay on.
The return trip home from work, the lights usually turn off as I turn into my driveway. I have had the charging system checked and the battery and everything says it is fine and charging just right.
Another odd thing is once in a while when I am on a long drive - Interstate or country roads with no stops - the check engine light pops on. Once I remove my foot from the gas or I stop and let it idle, the light goes out only to come back on when I depress the gas pedal.
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The past summer my 1994 Volvo 940 non-turbo over heated and we worked on the coolant system and got it working god again. However just after we fixed it the headlights blew out and we replaced them and then they blew out again. The battery was also going dead when the car was turned off and all electric things were turned off. Now the head lights don't blow but once they are turned on with the switch in the car they cant be turned off unless the battery is disconnected.
Also as of now none of the dash board instruments are working. With the car on and the lights turned on we pulled the connector to the switch that turns on the lights, that is on the dashboard, and the lights still stayed on. We can only think that some water may be causing the problem but it may or may not. I need to know how to fix the headlight problem and the instrument panel.
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We have a 94 corsica that we have trouble starting. I realized after a few times of this problem that, if when you turn the key to "Run" the lights ( Seat belt, Brake, oil, check engine etc..) are not lit up, but if you wait for a minute, those lights will light and the engine will then start. when those lights go on, it will start without a problem. But if those lights have not come on it will crank, but never fire. If it's the computer, or some other device that is hesitating for that minute, before allowing it to start. Other than this problem the engine runs fine.
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My daughter has a 94 XLT with 4 liter OHV. This the first time I have noticed a vehicle to have both an oil light and a pressure gauge. Periodically the check oil light will come on, but the gauge shows very good pressure. The oil level is full. I'm not sure what to make of this. I know the engine was replaced with a rebuild but no idea how many miles are on it now. Oil looks fairly clean tho it is due for an oil change I think.
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I have a 1994 Volvo 940 non turbo wagon. I just started having issues with the brakes lights and taillights not working. I have checked all the fuses visually and also did a continuity test on each one found all the fuses were good. I have replaced the all the relays, I have replaced the large red relay ( bulb failure relay ) and even did a continuity check on the bulb failure relay pins that are specifically for the rear brake light, everything checked out fine. I hesitate to change the brake light switch because the third brake light is working fine. I have considered replacing the headlight switch due to the taillights won't come on when the lights switch is on. My headlights do work though. There is no light on the dash indicating a bulb is out now since I replaced the third brake light bulb.
1994 Volvo 940 wagon
Non turbo
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Having a problem with the brake lights. When the brake pedal is pressed, the running lights (including dash lights, parking lights, and the low power filament in tail light) turn on, but no brake lights. When the lights are turned on and brake pedal is pressed, the brake lights do not turn on at all. The 4 way flashers and signal lights work correctly with lights on and off. Things I have tried:
Replaced the tail light bulbs.
Checked fuses (#5, #10).
Disassembled the brake switch and bypassed it with a jumper wire.
Checked the grounds (tail lights, rear ground, drivers inner fender).
Tried to trace the wiring. Didn't see any noticeable damage, but the wiring is in a loom so it is hard to see.
Used contact cleaner on brake switch, rear wiring harness, body harness.
Still hoping it may be something simple that I've overlooked.
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I recently purchased a 1994 Camry LE Wagon 3.0 for a reliable work car. I've spent the last week correcting mechanical issues the previous owner didn't. (Tune up, filters, struts.....)
When I start the car the "failed bulb" indicator light located to the left of the Tachometer is off, but as soon as I touch the brake to put the car in "D" the indicator light comes on and stays on until the next time I start it. I have checked EVERY exterior bulb several times with the car in park, not running. In park with the car running and the same in drive. All exterior lights work but this indicator light won't go off when the car is running.
Is there a fuse, sensor or relay somewhere on this car which may be the source of this problem? Wanting to "Turn off the Lights!"
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I decided to replace my interior light bulbs with LED's. I started by swapping out the overhead lights. There is one bulb for the dome light that lights up when the doors are open. That light works fine with the new LED bulb. But the two bulbs for the map lights won't work. When I was installing them my screwdriver touched somethings and made a spark. I figured I blew a fuse but all the fuses under the dash don't appear to be broken.
Why is it that the door ajar dome light works but the two map lights wont turn on? Are they not on the same fuse? Is there a fuse in the fuse box under the hood that I should check? I also noticed that my radio has no power. Fuses looked good. The wiring seems fine. The lights worked before I swapped the LED bulbs in. Tried putting the halogen bulbs back in and they still don't work.
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What I am trying to do it put in 2 led spot light for added backing up light. What i want to do is have them turn on when put into reverse but also have a switch i can use to turn them on when not in reverse. Just need to know what relay I need and if it even can be done.
I was also thinking of just taping into the wiring harness and adding a wire that goes to the spot lights and another wire that goes to a switch that I could turn on and supply power to the light when not in reverse (I know it will light the revers light also) but is it ok to do that?
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First off my driver side brake light with stop working. I took it apart to try and find the short. In the process I shorted out all my running lights tail lights and brake lights and turn signals I think also. While I was looking for the short, turn signal wire from my tail light touched the frame and grounded out and that's when all the lights died . My tail lights are some cheap trailer lights without reverse lights. I pulled headlight switch from another Ford truck I have. On the harness connector that connects to the switch which wires should read what when I test with a voltmeter?I checked the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood and they were good. Truck has a flat bed so I don't know if that matters with the wiring, I suspect it's different then a normal bed truck. Wiring on the bed is old, maybe from 94. I am unexperienced with electrical.
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