GMC :: 1994 Jimmy Will Not Turn Over / Start - No Power
May 29, 2011
My father tried to jump start my 1994 GMC Jimmy and it began smoking at the jumper cables and battery. We removed the cables. The battery was completely dead. So we went to get a new battery. Now the car has no power whatsoever. No lights, and will not even attempt to turn over. I was told that the car may be dead, for good. That perhaps the electrical is fried. Is there anything I can check to see if this is not the case. Do I need to check the alternator, or change the fusable link?
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I have a 2000 Jimmy and it just won't start. All lights come on and horn works. No crank when I turn the key. I had this problem before and the problem was a bad starter relay. I replaced the relay. The vehicle started up fine and ran fine for a few days. I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't. Battery is good, changed the plugs, wires, starter, cap and rotor within the last 8 months. Someone made a reference to my security system. Are there known electrical problems/interference between security system and other systems?
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My jimmy died on me yesterday on my way home from work...i thought the fuel pump went because i couldn't hear it when trying to restart... I had about a quarter tank of regular in there,,,put in 2 gallons of super and it started, but died again about a quarter mile down the road...got it home with a push...after searching for and checking any fuses i could find...swapped relays on firewall and all seemed well....i heard the pump and it fired right up...went walked, just in case) and got another relay, and now i don't hear the pump again,the battery is a bit low now,,,so maybe a jump would give me enough juice? I'm going to jumper the wires/relay...and be sure the pump is working... I'm sure it is.. 94 jimmy 4.3 vortec 140k I gotta pick up my wife from work later and don't want to get stuck again...
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I have a 99 gmc jimmy. Head lights and tails lights work. But not the Hazard and or turn signals. I checked fuses. I'm thinking it might be the plug under the ash tray. But I don't want to pull off the dash to find out it isn't that.
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I have a '94 XJS Jaguar that has been having repeated issues starting and has lately been putting out a dramatic plume of grey smoke each time has actually succeeded in starting. Currently, the engine refuses to turnover (or even give the usual "crank"); however, all the electrics in the car - lights, radio etc - seem to work perfectly fine.
Attempts to jump the car have proved futile. Previous trips to the repair shop have included battery replacements, battery cable replacements, tightening of this, that and the other thing as well as a transmission cleaning, all to no avail. What the issue might be?
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I have a 1994 F150 XLT 5.0 . The problem i am having is when I turn the ignition on I hear the fuel pump come on [both front and rear tanks] and it should stop when the system is pressurized but it does not,and the truck then fails to start. Intermittantly the pump does stop and the truck starts up.
There is fuel at the rail and there is spark,i have changed the filter ,fuel pressure regulater and the pump relay to no avail.
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The truck just won't turn over makes a rrrgh rrrgh noice like it wants to start, I push the gas peddle to the floor and I should smell a lot of gas but don't!!! I added oil when it died at the store last night and it started up but the oil stick indicates oil is fine??? Pulled the diode out this morning put it back in the truck would not start just made that noise but turned it off and reseated the diode and it started??? These things may or may not have anything to do with the problem. Could it be electrical or oil pressure gauge sticking or something else that I could tell my mechanic and he could fix so I don't get stuck????
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My daughter drives a 94 Century (120+ K) and it was running great, no issues to speak of. Thursday morning she was advised that her brake lights were stuck on when the car was parked in school lot. This drained the battery. The battery was very old so she got a new one properly size & installed; the car started up and drove fine. Later that evening it started up and drove again with no issues.Next morning; NOTHING; No Start. I checked and when door is opened interior lights come on, insert key and door chime rings. Turn key and there is nothing at all, a total loss of power, lights go out, door stops chiming but nothing. Starter never engages, no noise, no attempts of the engine to turn, remove key and lights return and door chimes!
1994 Buick Century 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl .....
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I have a 96 GMC Jimmy that will not start..... I have replaced the spider fuel injector and now I get the right fuel pressure. I have random non regular spark that is very week. I have replaced the ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, cam sensor, the ECM, and the ignition control module. The crank sensor checked out to be good. I do not know where else to check...
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy 4.3 Vortec. When you turn the key it doesn't roll over, all I can hear is a click in the passenger kick panel. I have checked the starter solenoid with a jumper and it is fine. After a ton of checking with a multimeter and swapping fuses and relays I found something- when I remove the 40A "ign A" fuse in the fuse panel under the hood and plug it back in, I turn the key and it fires right up and stays running. However if I shut it off and try to start a second time, it doesn't roll over and begins clicking in kick panel again.
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I have taken to mechanic- no codes, all reads well. have changed fuel filter, checked fuel pump, spark plugs, battery fairly new. after it rains, it cranks-engine shakes-wants to start but wont. Almost like gas or ignition will not kick in. if sunny, ok- This only happens after it rains..
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My husband recently bought a used '99 GMC Jimmy 4x4. Recently he has discovered that there is a problem cranking it. If the temperature dips below 40-45 degrees or if it is humid the Jimmy won't start. When the key is turned you can hear the starter trying to start it. It acts like a carborated vehicle flooding out. You can smell gas and if the hood is popped, and the air filter is removed you can see gas smoke coming out of the air filter location. This only happens when it won't crank. On warm or clear days, it cranks just fine and there is no gas smell or hesitation.
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Well this just started a couple of days ago and has gotten worse would start just fine and idle fine put in gear and I have little to no throttle if you give it to much would stall out but would start right up now it s hard as can be to start like 15-20 minutes to start others starting fluid and will idle great but same thing go to drive little to no throttle I can hear fuel pump priming it was changed over summer as filter and have replaced so many parts ...
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What is the problem need to fix have limited fundage....
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1996 GMC Jimmy SLS. I've looked at the "starting issue" threads in this forum but none are quite the same as mine. When you initially try to start the Jimmy (cold or warm), it seems to just crank for 20-30 seconds before it even tries to fire. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Battery is 2 months old, and so is the alternator. What about the relays or starter. It's not an intermittent problem either. This happens EVERY time you start the vehicle. The jimmy sat for a good while before we bought it, but would that cause the starting issue? It seems to run fine after it starts, but hesitates (stumbles)a little coming up off idle when its warm.
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95 jimmy change the heater core now won't start...
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Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
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1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
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1997 Jimmy, 4.3 ... This has gone on for two years and over two grand. I am slowly going insane. When it starts, it runs GREAT...but if it is moist outside, it is not going to happen...can crank it til the battery dies. I have replaced: spark plugs, fuel pump, MAF Sensor, distributor cap and rotor, stupid poppet fuel injection, battery x 2, and the ignition switch. It used to pull a random misfire code, but now has NO codes. I have been through five garages and four really good at home mechanics. When it is not starting, it has spark at the plugs and good fuel pressure. Last mechanic wanted to do a second fuel pump with the new injection system...I swear I think it is because I am a girl.
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I have a 2000 gmc jimmy 300.000 km 4.3 vortec .starts ok, even when cold idle smooth but when I accelerate past 2000 rpm it has a complete loss of power. I bought a fuel pressure tester key on 2 seconds 60 psi when I start the vehicle and running 55 psi. I took it on a road test it stays at 55 psi and has a hard acceleration and will go to 60 psi ,and then starts to break up my first question is how can I block off the return line to the tank, there's no rubber hose in any of the connections just steel lines and hard plastic with push connectors, is there a plug that you can buy or how I can block off the return to see if the pump will build pressure to 75 psi to 80 psi will this will tell me whether the pressure regulator is faulty or the fuel pump needs to be replaced.
I have a manual its a Haynes for chevy blazer gmc from 95 to 2004 it says with central sequential fuel injections (csefi) key on engine not running it should be approx 55-61 psi the engines running at idle it should decrease through 3 to 10 psi according to this manual i am within range but i have read on other posts that it should be 60-65 would you say that my 55 psi reading is okay? or should it be 60-65? also when i blocked the return line should i get a reading of 75 or higher? if the reading goes up does that mean that the fuel regulator is faulty? and if it doesn't go up does that confirm that the fuel pump is the issue?
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy and the driver side power window has stopped working. When I press the button to lower the window, I hear a click-click-click noise for as long as I am holding the button but the window does not move at all. Fortunately, it is in the up position. I don't hear any motor noise either when I hold the button down.
Chances are it is a real easy fix. I'm not sure about this but I think this issue began right around the time I had locked my keys in the car and they stuck something down inside the door to pop the lock (I wasn't home so I didn't see what they did). I just wonder if they didn't pull a wire loose or something when they were fishing around in there.
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