GMC :: 1950 - Distributor Module Not Working?
Jan 10, 2014
I have a 1950 GMC truck that I restored with a 350 small block v8 with a stock set-up. I now have 30K on the motor and it runs great except for one problem: The module in the HEI distributor keeps failing. The mileage between failures is random: 3k, 5K, 8K. I have now put in 8! I pull the module out and test it: Yep, cooked. I have replaced the cap, coil, and alternator. I think the distributor is not grounded properly. There is no tach attached to it. What is the source of problem? Should I just replace the whole distributor and hope for the best?
View 18 Replies
Advertisement
I'm going to be freshening up my distributor for my 1950 Cadillac, and I think because of bad weather stripping and other leaks, when it rains heavy, moisture might be getting on the distributor. Is there something I can spray on it that will repel moisture or would just a healthy dose of dielectric grease do the trick?
View 12 Replies
I have a 92 chevy truck with a 350 engine that came out of a 93 chevy my problem is my module in the distributor keeps going bad when i spoke with the previous owner of the motor he told me that he had the same problem and advised me to change the distributor. So I took my distributor out of the original motor and put in but the problem still exist, also I have noticed that I have nearly twice the exhaust coming from the drivers side tail pipe as I do the passengers side.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 F-150 Supercab King Ranch 4wd. The 4wd is not working. Took it to the dealer and they tell me the 4wd module is not communicating with the PCM. It is my understanding that this problem is rare...like 1 in a million. Ford wants to replace the entire PCM. In the past, I have had electrical problems with this vehicle due to corroded wires.
View 9 Replies
i have been restoring a 1950 dodge b2b pickup. engine was rebuilt. electrical redone. brakes redone. was starting before i began electrical replacement. all wiring replaced and everything working. But now the engine just turns over and over but won't start. I've checked starter, battery, spark, fuel pump and carburetor. Timing may be off because bolt holding distributer was loose without me knowing it. What do i do next?
View 19 Replies
My TPMS control module stop,working after resetting it.. Is there a way to fix it or do I need to buy a new unit.
View 2 Replies
My driver's side door lock module isn't working, are all MK4s the same or is it particular to R32? Would MK4 jetta module work on golf? I've found a bunch of different part numbers so I'm confused what I should be looking for...
Also is this harming the car after starting? I know it doesn't prime the fuel pump, but will it adversely effect anything if I don't fix it?
View 3 Replies
Took my 99 XLT super cab to a Ford dealer to have a new key made (I have only one so can't do it myself). I was told the PAT (Passive Anti-Theft) module wouldn't communicate with their system.....
As I understand it, the PAT module communicates wirelessly to the key module under the steering column. Since the PAT module is obviously working (the truck cranks, starts and runs fine). What are they talking about?
View 14 Replies
Is there a safe way to remove rust from a cooling system? It's on a 1950 cadillac that's all cast iron with a copper radiator. I'm pretty certain the coolant passages in the engine are plugged up from rust. I took off the rad hoses and rinsed everything out until it ran clear, but I've done this before and the car still runs hot.
View 1 Replies
My 2 remotes quit working at the same time. Tried to reprogram following method on the forum, but I dont get the lock/unlock on the 8th key cycle.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 Corolla with a 1.8Liter 1zzfe engine.
I can hear a loud "rattle" at 1950 rpm from the drive belt area whether I'm driving down the street or if I rev it up while parked in neutral. It's not a tapping sound, more like a sheet metal rattle but I can't locate an loose sheet metal.
I thought it might have been the drivebelt tensioner. The plastic bushing on the small bolt cracked to pieces and I simply replaced it with a stack of washers. That's the bolt at the top of the piston that screws into the valve cover. I replaced the tension but still hear that rattle. I tried to locate it with a stethoscope but no luck.
View 7 Replies
1950 cadillac - standard drums on all 4 corners.
I put new wheel cylinders on each drum, and replaced the drivers front hose, as it was clogged. The passenger side I left because it works and doesnt leak. I've cleaned all the brake surfaces, shoes and drums, and bled everything.
When I brake, and only when I brake, the front right makes a grinding noise and the car pulls to the right.
I tried tightening the star wheel today to bring the shoes inward in hopes that would equalize brake pressure up front, but when trying again today, I got that grinding sound still.
There is no scoring or gouges on the shoes, drum, and the inner and outer ball bearings seem fine - round chrome balls with no discoloration, no gouges on the spindles. Granted I don't drive this far at all, especially now that I have this grinding.
How can I really tell if its the ball bearings? It only makes the grind when I am on the brakes.
View 19 Replies
My 97 f250 light duty has give me fits. The power windows do not work up or down either side, no door chime or pdl either.i think this is related to the gem module cause I have run a 12 v to the motor itself in the door and it goes up and down.checked all fuses and switched relays.I don't even hear any clicking relays.I have spliced into the orang/white wire at the 2pin connector to the motor and have hooked it to a purple wire on the back of the window switch and now have pdl,and door chime,and hear clicking under dash but still no windows.What am I missing is there another wire to splice into?
View 1 Replies
I am having trouble with all sorts of functions on my 2002 F150 4x4, 4wd not working, cluster module illumination not working, horn not working, reving up and down at idle and sometimes dyin, cruise control quit working. I have been reading it is the GEM module that causes these issues. My question is I ordered a new one from Ford, when it arrives I was told I can just install it and It should be pre programmed. but one ford house tells me that they have to install it and program it. Which it right? I have seen several sites on u tube where people replace the module and then start their truck right up without any issue.
View 2 Replies
Anyway I have a 88 s10 blazer that will not start, I've replaced fuel pump, filter, charcoal canister, also the rotor, cap, plug wires, module, pick up coil and ignition coil. Before I changed the pickup, it would start till it warmed up then die, wouldn't start again unless I gave it gas, if I held it steady the rpm would fluctuate but stay running till I let go of the throttle. Now that I've replaced the pickup coil it turns over, I do have spark but it will not start. I bought a code reader all I'm getting is code 12 which is no distributor signal to ecm. Like I said I e replaced both the module and pick up coil.
View 2 Replies
My car was running perfectly, then one day I parked into my home and that was the last time it started. A mechanic came by and showed me that the distributor was not creating a spark and that I needed a new distributor. I bought one at a junk yard which looked much newer than mine but when we installed it, no spark. I went back and replaced the distributor for another at the same junk yard and the same thing happened, no spark.
I live in a very remote small town and this is the best mechanic that I have found, but they are not sophisticated, no real shops, diagnostic equipment, etc. After going through the expense, trouble, and having my mechanic tell me that it may be the computer, I decided to investigate myself and read a problem that appeared similar to mine indicating that it may be possible that the Crank Position Sensor may be bad.
This is what I read on a post on a different forum: "The first thing I would do is to check out and thest the CRANK SHAFT SENSOR. If this has shorted internally, you may have destroyed the IGNITION MODULE and or the COMPUTER. You might be lucky in that the crank sensor is the only faulty item."
View 12 Replies
I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
View 3 Replies
how long should the bolts be that mount the distributor to the (non-california) 5sfe? I'm putting my car back together (finally) and the only bolts from my pile that fit are one that is too long, and two that are only a couple threads longer than the width of the distributor flange. simplest conclusion is that the latter are the bolts that were there, but does that seem right?
View 4 Replies
I have a 92 k1500 with the 5.0 L in it. I suspect the distributor drive gear is worn, and even if its not it isn't going to hurt anything to replace it because its the original OEM drive gear and the engine has 233k miles on it. So what I'm looking for step by step process removal and re installation?
View 2 Replies
My 94 Honda Accord's distributor runs with the ignition switch off. Car will not start. Does this with master relay and 50 amp ignition fuse removed.
View 9 Replies
My jeep wont start if I tighten the distributor bolt, it will start and run fine if i leave the distributor loose. Has been running that way for 2 years and i just was wondering what would cause that kind of problem... 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo inline 6 ....
View 3 Replies
