Ford - Taurus :: 2004 - Lost Acceleration And Power Steering But Fine In Garage?
May 3, 2012
I was driving my Taurus a few days ago when it lost all acceleration and power steering. The engine seemed to be running okay, and it restarted at the side of the road, but still no acceleration. I called AAA and had it towed to my mechanic. The following day they called and could find no problem.....
they had driven it several times, checked out likely causes but found nothing. This garage has been very reliable in the past. They said it could just be an electrical issue that may or may not happen again. The car seemed fine when I was driving it today, but I am worried about it happening again. What could have caused this/what I should do?
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Got a 2004, Mazda 6i, 2.4LT, Manual, 140K miles
Car has been acting weird from past one week or 10 days. Outside temperature is around 25- 40 Fahrenheit.
I park my car in my home garage. It started fine in garage in morning, drove to work and parked in open parking lot for about 8 hours. Evening it did not start in the first try, it started at 4th time. I thought it might be weather and battery.
Next day morning it started fine in garage at 2nd start. Same problem in evening it would start at 4-5th time. Then I looked at my car battery and it was installed 2 years ago 3/2014.
I went to Walmart where my car battery was installed and they tested and said it is fine and has no problem with car battery. Just to make sure I took to nearby autozone they said that car battery is fine.
Over the weekend I left my car in our garage and was starting it every day morning to make sure if its working fine. It started fine and left it ON for about 45 minutes, everything is fine.
Today Sunday evening the weather outside was good around 55F. Went to some store for grocery shopping and returning back it started at 4th time.
When ignition key is turned ON, all the lights on dash board,radio,lights are fine and when I turn on the car it does not give any sound ( no cranking or anything) it was completely dead.Took the key out and waited for 5 minutes and tried again, with little cranking sound it started at 3rd try.
Took car to autozone for free testing and they said Car battery is good and when they asked me to start the car,it again did not start first time. They jump started my car and it started.
They are suspecting it might be alternator. What baffles me is why does the car start in 2nd try when parked in garage over night and does not start when parked outside in parking for about 45 minutes.
(Starter was replaced for the above car 2 years ago).
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I have a 04 ls that has been with a mechanic who gives up. The car idles fine but has no power or acceleration all COP's have been changed. Also the computer is not throwing any codes. Mechanic says that cylinder 3,2,1 have sever mis fire and are pretty much dead but dose not know why.
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Yesterday the power steering exploded on our 2008 Lexus RX 350 spewing power steering fluid all over the under carriage of the car and the garage floor. Left a trail every where we went. The loss of fluid caused the power steering to quit working. I had no prior signs of any leaks of any kind and no noise or symptoms from the steering prior to this. Had this happened on the highway at speed, I don't know what could have happened.
Loss of steering and the catalytic converters covered in oil could have resulted in a fire and or wreck. I see on line that power steering leaks seem to be a problem with many Lexus models. I have heard that a screen/filter in the power steering solenoid can clog causing the pressure in the system to go sky high blowing the rack seals. Some have said that by cleaning the filter and flushing the system that the problem can be solved without having to replace the rack and pinion.
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About some four months ago, was driving home from work and the car lost almost all the power and an alert "emissions garage" came on on the display. I had it looked at the VW dealership in Malta and they told me that the turbo diaphragm got jammed and they managed to get it working agin without changing it. After 4 weeks the same....
Took it this time to my mechanic, who works only on VW's and he immediately blamed the diaphragm again so after checking it he changed the diaphragm with a second hand one and also the emissions control box. After driving it for two months .....the same problem once again....
Passat B6 2007 1.9t ........
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2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
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1987 ranger 2.9l 4wd 5 SPD ... I just replaced plugs wires distributer cap and rotor and pcv valve and hose. It drives fine for about 3 minutes and then it looses all power and I can't get out of 2nd gear. It idles fine all day long. The guy I bought it from said he put a new tank and pump on it.
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Can't find a thing wrong with it, no codes. Runs great down the street but backing out of the garage from cold start, it barely runs.
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I lost a hose in the driver side front wheel well this morning while pulling RV to a campground. By the time I got there and got the RV disconnected, I lost all power steering. I reconnected the hose using a zip tie and have a friend bringing me fluid to refill reservoir.
Is my pump toast now? Can I refill the reservoir and prime the lines and be good to go?
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Driving home from movies tonight, I lost power steering and power brakes and the pump started growling. Looked in the reservoir and it was all foamed up. Within the last 20k mi I have flushed the system and refilled with power steering fluid. No apparent leaks at this time. And happened like someone flipped a switch. Fine one turn, nothing the next. What are the chances this is a fluid issue and not a mechanical one? Start with flushing system and adding Mercon V? Or is it likely pump is damaged?
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So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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I have a 2000 taurus and I have been having trouble with my power steering. Its leaking badly & from where I see it is Leaking is under the car on the passenger side by the tire. Also essentially the taurus power steering runs on transmission fluid so could it be a practical idea to use trans stop & sea to slow the leakage til I get to a mechanic?
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My 02 Ex V10 suddenly lost its power steering. And I mean completely, so it was a bitch to get it home. There are no leaks and the reservoir is full. It makes no noise at all when I try and turn the wheel, so it does not even sound like the pump is working at all. Does this sound like the pump or the gear box? Is there an easy way to tell before I just order the pump and hope that is the problem?
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2004 Ford Taurus - transmission was going out last Aug - had it rebuilt (new seals and torque converter) got it back steering wheel was slightly off (1/2 inch) of being the center when driving straight. Took a while to get it back to the shop - life happens - took back today - said they did everything they could and really needs an alignment which they do not do - drove it home after hanging out at the shop for 5 hours. The steering wheel is now off 2 inches from center and the car is pulling noticeably to the right. Going back tomorrow - but they are saying that it was not them and that I need to pay for an alignment.
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The check engine light came on again after coming on about a week ago and then shutting of by itself. Everything seems to run normal with the car so I don't know if I should ignore the light and just keep driving or what. What would you do? My car is a 2011 Ford Taurus.
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I have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.
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Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
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I have a 1999 ford taurus (3L,automatic) which I use here on the farm. A fluid leak in the return line from the cooler needed to be repaired last summer now after a couple of months a new problem occurred. When you stop and turn off the engine power steering fluid explodes out the filler cap. The fluid is foamy with air. I replaced the pump with a good used pump, then replaced the rack with a remanufactured unit and checked all the lines. I can't detect any evidence of a leak, (The old rack did appear to leak). I suspect that this is caused by an air leak in the return circuit causing air in the fluid which is compressed until the pump stops then expanding back through the pump into the reservoir.
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Lost all acceleration yesterday while driving at highway speed. Tire pressure light came on also large warning sigh and check engine . Had been stuck in bumper to bumper traffic before this with AC on.Gas pedal to the floor but no acceleration. I pulled over and shut off car. When I tried to restart the lights mentioned above went out Except the check engine, NOW all the brake warning lights are on in a yellow color including the emergency brake.Brakes do stop the car (had to push it onto the tow truck) Car comes on but does not display the READY sign.
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2008 Prius recently lost acceleration (would only creep along) and soon stopped. Warning lights - red triangle with !, red split car on mid, check engine - came on. About 10 minutes later the car started and allowed my daughter to creep the last 1/4 mile home. DTC's - P0A3F and P2196. Was recently gassed up, so checked gas cap, thinking it may have set the oxygen sensor code. It was loose, tightened it. Pulled the EFI fuse for a couple minutes to reset the codes (not sure it did). Put the smart key back in and warning lights came on again. May have to take to dealer, but would like to have some notion as to what's causing this. Possibly related -- a couple weeks ago the 12V battery got drained overnight. Pulled it and recharged and everything seemed to be running fine.
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I installed a set of brushed aluminum pedal about a month ago and now I feel that the car does not have the same power and acceleration like before! I mean if on 60mph cruising I want to accelerate to pass a car and push the pedal all the way up to the acceleration bottom the Trani only downshifts up to 3000 rpm and if I want pass quicker then push it all the way to the bottom then it shifts to 5000 rpm, in sport mode it is different and looks OK.
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