Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Changing Rear Coil Springs?
Jan 22, 2013
I have a 02 Explorer that has 2 cracked rear coil springs.
How hard are they to change ?
What brand to use ?
I was looking at the Monroe Quick-Strut.
Jan 22, 2013
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I have a 2002 Explorer that had a whining rear, changed it out with a good rear out of my parts truck and now I have an ABS light on. It says something about input to the sensor and output from the sensor and left and right wheels. 4 Codes in all. I changed the speed sensor in the top of the rear to the one that was in this truck because the light wasn't on before and it still has this light.
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My rear springs are worn out
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I need to replace rear spring packs on our
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View 1 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 - Installation Of F550 Coil Springs?
I have a 2012 F350 CCLB with camper package (front coil springs @ 6,000 lbs). I was thinking of installing F550 coils springs, which are rated at 7,000 lbs, to provide greater lift up front.
Before performing this modification, what lift was achieved up front?
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Camry :: Part Numbers For OEM Coil Springs
My recently installed Monroe Quick Struts are not dropping to the stock height, I thought I'd retrofit OEM springs.
I find that it's not easy to figure out what is the correct part. Various sites show differences in Japan vs US build, some show different parts for left and right and there's no particular consistency.
So, what are exact part numbers? This is a US built 2005 LE AT. The build date is 04/05.
Lincoln - Towncar :: 1998 - Replacing Front Coil Springs?
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I have an 02 f150 2WD with a "leveling" kit. It was on the truck when I bought it. However, the front sets noticeably higher than the rear. The rear has lifting blocks, while the front has the lifted spindles as well as the coil spring spacers. At least I think they are spacers. I had to replace lower control arm bushings a while back, and there were black plastic rings on top of the springs. Can I remove the spacers? If I can, I plan on doing that and replacing the rear blocks with whatever I need to get the stance back. I like the height of the truck now, just hate the front being higher than the rear. I do pull my boat with it.
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F250 - Changing Front Springs?
I just bought a used 2013 F-250 4x4 and it came with the snow plow pkg. heavy duty front springs. I love the truck, but won't be plowing with it, and I don't need the rough ride (and don't like the look of the front end higher than the rear)
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Prius (2010-12) :: Changing Out Struts / Shocks And Springs
What additional parts should I be replacing when I do this? Spring seats, bump stops, etc?
View 12 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 2002 - Rear Wiper Won't Working?
NO RESPONCE TO REr wiprt control ?
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Soon my rear shoes will need replacing in my '02 . I've given up searching for info on how to replace them. Seems all the links I find are for vehicles that have rear disc brakes and mine are drums. Is this a do-able thing or should I just hand it over to a shop? I've done my share of brake jobs on other vehicles but not this would be my first Ford.
View 11 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 2002 - Rear Differential Fluid Leak
The rear differential center section on my wife's 02 Explorer has a slow drip that appears to be coming from the rear cover plate. I have worked on the solid 8.8 and 10.25 axles but never on a independent center section. Does the whole center section have to be lowered to change the seal on the cover? If so, do the axles have to be pulled to do so?
View 3 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 2002 - Intermittent Rear Brake Lights
We have a 02 Sport Trac that has intermittent brake light problem. All other functions for the bulb filament for the brake lights work! Turn signal and flashers work great. The brake light that is above the rear window works, BUT the brake lights on the rear of the Sport Trac work when they what to.
Right now I can not find a cause that causes them to not work or to work. This morning they worked in the garage but did not work as my wife pulled out of the driveway. Last night they did not work on part of the way home but worked coming into the drive way.
Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Rear-end Is Slightly Grinding At Low Speeds Mainly When Turn Right
It is a 2002 Explorer xlt 4x4 4.6l v8 with 139k miles. It runs like a top and is in great condition. However I have a few questions:
Most importantly is it feels and sounds like the rear-end is slightly grinding at low speeds mainly when I turn right. If I give it a bit of gas when turning it doesn't seem to do it. I have tried running a vin decoder to figure out if I have limited slip or not so I can drain the rear diff and inspect it, but I haven't found what it has as far as gears go.
Number two. The keyless entry and remote worked when I bought the car and then about two days later it just stopped working. I bought a new battery for the remote and put it in and it still doesn't work.
Also the interior lights will stay on after you start the car until I hit about 15mph, and also stay on for about 5min after I shut the car off. I am not sure what may cause this. I have owned tons of older ford's but am relatively new to anything newer than 2000.
And I know pics or it didn't happen, so there is one of the door sticker, one of the rear axle, and one of the car ...
Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Driver Side Rear Spring Is Cracked
My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
Ford - Explorer :: 2002 XLT - Rear Vents Do Not Blow Out Enough Air In The Back Or Third Row Seat
My defrost & front vents work fine. My back vents that are in the back of the console switch from hot to cold like it suppose to, but they do not blow out enough to feel it in the back seat or third row seat.
Also when I use the heat the front flat part of the console by the drink holders especially gets red hot to the point it can melt plastic ink pen or anything else you lay there. which concerns me since I have a 9 yr old.
Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Ticking / Knocking Only After Warm Towards Rear Of Engine?
I have 02 Limited 4.6 with 128k and upon startup there's no noise (sometimes misfire, due to oil in plug wells, gonna change the intake mani and coils soon). Shortly after it warms up - 5 minutes or so there is a constant ticking at idle...I can't really tell if its there upon acceleration as I can't notice it with the window open when I'm driving, but as soon as I slow down and/or idle I hear it again.
If I let the car sit for a few hours, or while I'm at work, it starts up perfectly fine, no noise.
I tried the long screw driver trick - putting it to different parts of the engine and placing my ear over the handle, and didn't really notice anything different from any part of the engine. I had it up on my lift, and it almost sounded like it was coming from the rear - near the tranny, but what the hell would tick back there? and how do I diagnose that?
I dropped the oil pan when I first got it and there was a very little amount of black rubbery stuff - presuming its timing chain guide/tensioner related, but no chunks, not really any metallic shimmer in the oil, so I guess it could be that, I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and inspect - but like I said, didn't notice anything with the screwdriver trick....I'm at a loss
Golf V R32 :: Coil Pack Rust When Changing Spark Plugs
I've been doing the 40k service to my R32, and was in the process of changing the spark plugs.
The first three went smooth with no problems, the next three however.... When I pulled the coil packs off, they were covered in rust and corrosion.
The inside of the block leading down to the spark plug (where the coil pack was) also had rust in it. I haven't pulled those three spark plugs out yet. What caused the rusting?
I assume I need to replace these three coil packs, and clean off the existing spark plugs before removing them. Is that a fair assessment?
I haven't had any trouble with misfiring or stalling. The car has been running great.