Ford - ZX2 :: Electric Window Will Not Go Up After It Has Been Lowered
Jul 14, 2012
My wife's ZX2 driver side electric window will not go up after it has been lowered. It will go up a little bit each time the button is pushed and can be pulled up then stay if the button is pushed. I think that the window motor is damaged but do not know how to test it or replace it if it is bad.
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I have a 2006 Sonata LX that has a problem with the driver's side power window.
It will either lower and then not come back up, or not lower when the button is pressed.
Most of the time the button is tilted downward.
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I have a 2003 GMC Sierra with 146,000 miles. Yesterday morning when I lowered the driver side window, I heard a loud pop. After which the window would not go up when I pulled on the up button. However, when I pushed the DOWN button the window went back up. This was to me a good thing. It stayed up until this morning when while trying the passenger window I accidentally touched the driver side switch It dropped a little then slowly went down about a half inch as I drove. Luckily when I pressed the down button it went back up again. I've Benn told it is the window regulator.
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My driver' side window had been making a thunk sound when first lowered from the full closed position for the last 6 months. I opened the door and couldn't see anything wrong. Now it won't go down at all, although I can hear it seem to try when I push the button. The motor is likely shot or some sort of other problem? It is a 20 yr old car and starting to drink oil, so I want to try to fix if possible cheaply.
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Passenger power window will go down but not back up. I replaced the motor, it worked for a month and now it will not go up. Ford replaced the motor. Still doing the same thing. I have plugged the motor on the driver side and it works just fine. I am thinking that there is a wiring problem. Where I can get a wiring schematic?
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I have a problem with my passenger automatic window in my 2009 Elantra, It able to go up & down from the switch on the driver's door, but from the passenger side the electric window will not go down.
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I have a 2007 4 door Sonata with an electric rear passenger window that will not stay up. I will need to remove the door panel to get to the problem. Any video, or a step by step procedure that would guide to remove the door panel and possibly repair the window?
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Car: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
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Hopped into my truck last night after unlocking with the key fob, the easy exit is turned off, and the drivers seat was rolled all the way back and lowered. Mirror might have been off its mark too. Seat back was fine, not reclined. The seat change position like this? Never happened before or after, software? Bumped stuck adjustment switch, other???? Doubt having key on the same frequency and did it for fun as my laptop was in plain view and not stolen...
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So im getting coils put on in the next 2 weeks, its my first time driving a lowered car i wanna go as low as a can on the coils (which are solowerks s1's) i dont wanna rip my front end off the first week so should i keep it a good height then keep going lower or just go all the way down and drive more carefully(roads not the best where im from, but for sure possible)
Also anything that i should replace while i'm down there besides the strut bushings
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I'm lowered about 1 inch in the front and when I drive at night its tough to see about 15-20 feet past my car. Its very bright in that range but past 20 feet it is very dark if there are no street lights. Any manual way to adjust the headlights?
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Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
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The cruise worked perfect before I lowered the car and now it works occasionally.. It was on most of the 10 hour drive to this part of Florida and around town it's worked but has started to act up a bit again now.. Sometimes the cruise light will flash and then won't work but other times it's fine any input? The car is an otherwise stock AWP at 107k miles..
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I just lowered the passat and i have noticed while driving at night that the self-leveling lights have a hard time finding level. I am driving on I-95 and anyone who is in front of me thinks i am blinking my high beams at them.
This guy started slamming his brakes in front of me the other day and most likely would have killed me if he ever had a chance of catching me (the 3.6 is a monster!).
Any way, I notice this problem at all speeds and all road conditions (smooth as well as bumpy). Is there a way i can just turn the leveling feature off, cause there is no way this car is going back to stock springs.
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Heard a pop under the hood and now my engine appears to be lowered and uneven.... bad engine mounts? The car does vibrate a bit. i do have drive easy CPO coverage although. should i even bother driving it to the dealership or have VW pick it up for me...
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It's a weird issue. Randomly the radio's volume can not be raised or lowered. Usually this is at first time you start the truck no matter cold or hot. When this happened last time i clicked on the button that says sound. It brings you to the screen to change fade and balance and it was all darked out that you couldn't tap on it. After two minutes or even less it started to work. I'm thinking the original amp is the issue but others tell me its the radio.
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I just waited 5 months for my ES300H Ultra Luxury with Mark Levinson. I am coming from an HS250 with a technology package that actually blows away this car.
My biggest gripe - When you have navigation set, and then you use the phone, the NAVIGATION PROMPTS still come on over your phone call. So the person on the other side of the phone is hearing all of your navigation prompts. In the HS250 prompts completely went silent, and you looked at the map while talking on the phone. (Which is the correct way.) As a Realtor, I am constantly talking to clients and using driving directions and this is totally unprofessional. People on the other line think I am talking to them and say what? I cannot believe that when a phone call comes in while I am driving, I have to go into settings, go into voice, and then lower the volume (no volume control for prompts on the steering wheel.) All while driving, and talking on the phone. TOTALLY DANGEROUS.
In addition, when using radio, in the HS250 when a prompt came on, it temporary lowered volume during the prompt so you could hear it. Not on the ES300H. You cannot hear the prompts over the radio.
Not to mention you cannot even voice delete a destination and you lose tons of commands on the new navigation system. Navigation is sending me on crazy routes. The phone sounds like it is in a tin can compared to the HS250. I don't know how I ended up spending big bucks more for a car that actually went backwards in technology.
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I'm sure that this is not normal, but I just want to know if any one else has this problem with their car. When the windows are down, they are loose in their tracks -- you can actually shift them forward and backward with your fingers. Also, if the windows are lowered when I shut the door, the windows flutter. The right rear window is so loose, that it creaks when I hit a bump even when the window is all the way up. The windows seal up just fine -- no wind noise or leaks of any sort.
In the link below you can see me shifting the windows forward and back. The right front window is least affected, right rear is the worst, and the two left windows seem about the same.
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I have a 2002 SC430 And its the second one I've owned. And for the life of me. I can't remember if the side windows lowered a little when you open the doors. The past five or so cars I've owned did. But this one doesn't.
To clarify. The windows (Both driver and passenger) Would drop about 1/8" when you open the doors and raise up once the doors are close. is it normal that the Sc doesn't do this?
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I recently lowered my wife's gs350 f sport and was wondering how to adjust the headlight beam? I followed the adjustment screws from the owner's manual and they tried to raise them, but they don't move. I know the headlights are adaptive so the move up and down with a motor so not sure if that is why they don't move with the adjustment screws.
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Like the title says... Do any lowered mkvi's have any noises or popping sounds coming from your car's front suspension? The reason I ask is on my MKV R32 I had H&R springs on stock shocks and at low speed full lock turns I had a slight poping noise. Everything on the R was installed right and it only had ~3-4k miles on it when the springs were installed. After doing research it seemed like a fair amount of lowered MKV's had this noise and it was thought to have something to do with the strut bearing.
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