Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Truck Only Runs In Start Position?
Nov 13, 2015
I have a 70 Ford f250 with a messed up wiring harness. Truck will run only in start position. which wires are wrong.
View 7 RepliesI have a 70 Ford f250 with a messed up wiring harness. Truck will run only in start position. which wires are wrong.
View 7 RepliesMy 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
View 3 RepliesMy 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
View 2 RepliesMy 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
I have a 1998 Ford F-150. It has an issue with starting sometimes. The truck won't start with a fully charged battery but when I hook it up to a charger, the truck starts normally. It was going to get the wheels aligned today and when the mechanic went to drive it off the ramp, it wouldn't start. I told him to put a charger on the battery and it started right up. Without the charger it just cranked over and wouldn't start. It doesn't do this every time I go to start it only occasionally. The mechanic had no idea what the problem was and has never heard of this kind of situation. I'm assuming it is an electrical problem but I'm not an expert with engines. The battery was fully charged at the shop and the battery is a year old.
View 4 Replies2001 F-350 diesel. Out of nowhere, I start the truck and there's no turn signals. Fuse is blown so I replace it. It immediately blows. Tail lights work. No turn signal, brake lights, or hazards. I haven't hooked up a trailer or done anything abnormal recently. Only the #1 fuse (20Amp) is blown. Pulled bulbs and they work fine. Inspected wiring under and near lights. NOTHING! Any way to localize a short?
View 2 RepliesHave and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
View 2 RepliesMy 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
Truck is up in the back country and has quit. It has two factory gas tanks, I can't hear either of the fuel pumps will come on when you turn the switch on. The problem started as an intermittent fuel starvation issue. Truck would act like it ran out of gas then pick up and go again. Switched tanks back and forth but it got worse throughout the day and finally will not start at all. I have listened to both tanks when the ignition switch is turned on but can not hear the pump come on for either tank (switching the selected tank with the switch on the dash). We went through some bumpy terrain just before the problem started so I am thinking maybe a wire might have come loose or got broke somehow. I am asking for wiring schematic so I can check for voltage in the correct place going to the fuel pumps. Both tanks are full of gas so for now dropping either tank is not an option.
View 8 RepliesHaving a chance to try an O2 Sensor Simulator on your truck? I am wondering if they actualy work or if I should just stay away from them. Are there any problems or improvements using a SIM?
View 13 RepliesI have a 94 Fsuperduty with a flatbed and lift that folds up and stores under the end of the bed. Recently while on a job the lift wouldn't go up, so I checked the one fuse I know of in the system and it was burnt. Put a new one in and before the lift reached the top it burnt-out again. It had been working with no problems for months prior to then.
View 4 RepliesI bought a great 76' SuperCab with a 390 4 barrel Wednesday (the 30th) and while driving around the neighborhood this evening the truck just lost all power and came to a stop. No lights, no engine, nothing and I cruised to an easy stop (fortunately at the end of my own block). I thought I smelled a bit of electrical burn for a moment after I came to a stop but could not track it down before the smell disappeared.
Some early symptoms - on drive home from purchase, the turn signal light function was in and out. The starter was also turning slowly and sounded tired/weak. The ignition switch was a bit loose and previous owner said you had to make sure the key was not all the way to the right or accessories would not work.
Some early checks/fixes- replaced battery and battery cables and checked grounds. Starter began turning stronger and turn signal lights were back. Thought I had it going well.
My 2004 expedition wont go into any gear the shifter will not move I changed the stop light brake switch and a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown and also the check engine light is on now too this was after I parked it I also changed a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown out but it still don't work the only way I can get it into gear is to push the little button under steering wheel...
View 2 Replies1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
View 8 RepliesI just bought a used F-350 that was being used by a fire department. They did something to the wiring to where most of the electronics won't work unless the key is in the "ON" position. When I open the doors, the dome light doesn't come on, nor does it come on with the IC dimmer switch, when I turn the key either backwards or to the "ACC" position the radio won't work, the headlights DO work but I don't get the warning chime when I open the door with them on.
The flash-to-pass works, as do the hazards and the turn signals (which seems odd -- I don't recall having a car where the turn signals worked without the car being on). With they key on, everything works including the dome light and the door chime. Is there some simple thing they could have done that would make it work this way and is easily reversed?
2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
View 3 RepliesSO, my Buick has given the code for bad TPS, and it was replaced a little over a year ago...and now after the same symptoms, replaced again.. However, this time, right after replacing, it gave the code again, and still stalls out /doesn't want to stay running especially when put in gear. My regular mechanic also recently just put on a new catalytic converter and a new fuel pump and fuel filter. I'm at a loss, and desperately need my car back.
A little back history...about 3 years ago a 'friend' was to work on my car to install the thermostat and power washed the engine...which shortly after started having all kinds of electrical issues. Right after that, my mechanic had to install a coil, spark plugs, new ignition panel and the 1st tps.
I'm working on a 289 from a 65 Fairlane; When I attempt to start the engine it will turn over however, it will not start. I can switch it on and jump it with a screw driver and it starts right up. It started once with the key so I don't think it's the wiring. I don't want to start buying items chasing the problem when I don't know the answer. I have a new battery.
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