Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Transfer Case Shift Relay Module Location
Dec 15, 2008
Where it is located in a 97 F150 XLT Automatic with the ESOF?
Transfer Case Shift Relay Module
If it goes bad, would it be possible to still select 4L just no 4H?
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I am curious if it is possible to make a stand alone controller for the electric shift transfer case in a 2000 F-350?
The reason I ask is, this is swapped into a 4x4 conversion in a van and I would like the transfer case to work like the factory, but I don't want to swap over the whole GEM module. I have the high to low and low to high shift relays and wiring, the selector switch from the dash.
I know that powering up the relays will shift the transfer case, but the GEM module tells when the relays need to shut off, and that is where I am not sure what to do. I am assuming that the other plug on the shift motor (6 pin plug) is the sensor that tells the GEM module where the shift is at.
What needs to be done (with a bank of relays).....
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Long story short, my truck's front turn signals and rear turn signals/tail lights won't work. I am thinking that the relay is burnt. Whenever I look in the manual I can't seem to find the location for this relay. Is is built into the flasher?
Also, I am just assuming because the rear turn signals and tail lights are the same bulb that fixing this should clear up both problems. Am I right in thinking that?
I have already checked all of the fuses. Also, the Hazards don't work either.
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Exactly where the parking lamp trailer tow relay is located on a 2002 F-250 Super Duty 4X4 CC 7.3L?
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I have an 05 Escape XLT 4WD worth 3.0L V6. My HAYNES says the transfer case lubricant should be checked every 15k - I bought it with 75k and it has 107k now and I have never checked it. I am wondering if it is common practice to do this every 15k? The transfer case is then one next to the oil pan? The book has one photo.
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I have a BW 1345 transfer case. Does it have the shift in the fly capability? And, if so, what precautions should be taken if shifting on the fly?
Second, where can I get a "plate" or label that shows the shift pattern? I know the shift pattern, I just want to post it in my vehicle in case anyone else ever drives it and needs to use the 4 wheel drive.
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My TC motor picked today of course with the snow to go bad. Luckily I hobbled to advance right as they were about to close and got one. I laid in the snow and changed it. Needless to say I got soaked beyond belief. Anyways now it changes in and out well but still seems way to loose in the rear. Not sure if something else is malfunctioning or if these things are like that. Right now I don't feel nearly as safe as I did in my expedition and that was without even using 4hi or low just the A4WD. The excursion is sliding everywhere. My tires have great tread but are highway tires so maybe that's the issue. They are Dura Grapplers. I'm going to try throwing some weight in the rear to maybe gain some traction.
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I've read a few posts of people trying and they say the cant be removed but I just don't believe it! I cut off some of the rubber on the with a knife and its all white plastic underneath.. I just don't believe that its actually impossible to remove this.
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2014. Noticed the feel and sometimes clunk when shifting to 4 high? My house sits up a hill and this time of year, routinely have to use 4X4 to get up. There is a little more noise and vibration than im use to. Usually shift coming down a semi flat dirt/ice road at low speeds, typically about 10mph. Going in for first oil change soon and was gonna ask them to check it out for peace of mind.
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Originally it would light up on the dash, the hubs would lock, but the transfer case would not shift in to 4 wheel. Followed the troubleshooting I've found, was receiving power at the connection on the shift motor but it was not turning.
So I went and bought a new motor, installed it, still wouldn't turn. (with the motor off the transfer case but electrically connected). So I found a few more replies about the relays, swapped them, nothing.
Removed the covers and manually flipped the connection, nothing. Now my hubs are locked, transfer case is not, and I get nothing when I change the switch on the dash. (no lights, no hub click shift, no 4 low, nada). All the fuses are good, just doesn't work.
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I purchased a 98 dodge ram 4x4 v8 with automatic transmission. When I purchased it the guy told me there was an issue with the transfer case. From what he told me he got stuck and the transfer case is the result. I was told there is a fork in the transfer case that is probably bent? Does this sound correct? It is currently in 2wd. Do I have to remove the transfer case to replace the fork? What is it like to remove the transfer case? Drop the tranny?
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just bought the truck first time out hit some snow and it was not engaging low or high range, but I noticed that when I was backing up it was engaged again works in high and low range, i had to reverse about a mile up the road but it worked ? 99 4.2 standard with manual shift transfer case....
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I have a 03 Excursion 6.0 that just developed a transmission leak between the transmission and transfer case. It appears to be the transmission because the transfer case fluid is at the top. I started to notice transmission fluid leaking in my driveway. I have not had any driving issues with the transmission but I am not driving until I correct the problem. If this is the rear transmission seal, how had is it to change this seal? Must I remove the spacer between the transfer case and 5r110 tranny? Any special tools needed?
My temps have stayed at or below 150 if I recall. My fluid is slightly low in the transmission at about 134 operating temperature. The fluid is clean, red and has no burnt odor. My transfer case is topped off. Fluid ran out the fill plug when I removed it.
There is an aluminum square spacer than necks down. It is about 6" long between the transmission output on the excursion and the transfer case. The leak I see is where that spacer meets the transfer case. I see enough for the fluid to leak onto the cross member and to the driveway. I estimate that I have lost less than a 1/2 quart of fluid over a couple weeks.
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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I'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
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I just need to know where the powertrain control module relay is in my car...
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My points to electronic conversion suffered this problem, just started, set the timing and was idling, like ten minutes or more, suddendly the engine died, no spark, immediately I noticed the module was very hot, so was the ignition coil, it's a TFI "square" coil from a 1987 Econoline I6, the module is a new Spartan brand name blue module.
I cooled the module with a wet rag and the engine came back to life. I hooked up the module and the coil with full 12V, no ballast resistance for the coil, I'm feeling this is the problem, maybe this coil needed a ballast resistor?
I have this 1.6 ohmm ballast, if I install this, will the coil run cooler and put less strain in the module, so it won't overheat? or the TFI coil is wrong for the Duraspark ? it was running fine with the points, never missed a beat, never tested how hot it run with the points though, but I did used the ballast resistor with the points.
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I am having issues with my auxiliary relay on my truck. It will work intermittently. It started with me just needing to give the relay a light tap for it to work, and is now progressed to needing me to push really hard on the relay for it to turn on, but then as soon as I let go it shuts off again. I have replaced the relay with a new one and it's doing the same thing, and have even tried some di-electric silicone on the terminals with no success.
I was thinking of pulling out the entire fuse/relay panel and see if the contacts have pushed out, but then I read a thread regarding the panels and issues involving the removal the terminals and breaking the panel. 2004 F350 CCSB 6.0L...
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3. I started out with my batteries dying after a few days of sitting. I found the interior lights were coming on dimly, and the relay buzzing. great, got it. I pulled the fuse and ordered the dimmer/light switch. I came back next week and the batteries are dead again. Charged them, drove the truck, and then the radio starts coming on without the key on. Pulled the radio.
Next day the truck starts fine, but now the seatbelt noid is going off all the time and the tranny overdrive is blinking "off" but still shifts fine, and goes into overdrive. The speedometer also works erratically... I read a post about the marker lights leaking, I looked and that's a definite possibility. My question is are all these related back to the GEM or BCM? or more problems?
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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