Ford Wiring/Electrical :: No Electrical Power After New Solenoid
Dec 22, 2016
So I'm writing this for my friend but he has a 1978 F-150 with a 1969 390 in it. He recently had a problem where his starter got stuck and it lit the wires connected to the solenoid up in flames. Well anyways we replaced all the wires that were attached to the solenoid and replaced the solenoid and the starter also. But after wiring it up it has no power whatsoever. The battery is also brand new and the fuse links are fine. What is causing this?
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I just replaced my starter solenoid and I'm getting nothing. When 12 volts are applied directly from the battery to the solenoid, the engine wants to turn (granted my batteries are weak) however when I turn the key to start, after waiting for the "wait to start" light to go off and hearing the glow plug click, I turn the key and I get absolutely nothing. No click, nothing. Is there a possibility my ignition is bad?
Would the "wait to start" and glow plug keep working if this were true? Electrical is not exactly my forte'. Before I replaced the solenoid, the bad one had a broken post but the truck would still start most of the time, and when it wouldn't I just connected the two large posts on the solenoid with channel locks or pliers or whatever was handy. I put the new one in exactly the same way the old one came out. I only undid one bolt and set of wires at a time so I wouldn't screw the order up, so I'm at a loss.
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My 2005 4.6L 4x4 screw is blowing the 10amp a/c clutch, 4x4 solenoid fuse whenever i turn the a/c on, at times whenever I turn the defrost on. the fuse does not blow when i turn the key to power (no engine start) but when engine is running fuse will trip. I disconnected elect. Connection at compressor and fuse still blows, also seems like no power or life from compressor.
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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I'm trying to find the wiring diagram for the power windows in a 96 f150. I've got a set of these that i need to fab a harnes for to install in my 82.
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89' Bronco 5.0 EFI. My Bronc has no power at all! Heres the senerio... Parked it this past Thursday night 2/16. Tried to start it Friday morning 2/17. Starter just acted like the battery was bad. Took the battery to 2 different auto stores to have it tested and it passed. Initially the starter just tried to turn, after I put the battery back in the solenoid just clicked, no starter. I already replaced the starter and starter solenoid on Monday 2/13 with a new, not reman starter.
At this point I am just throwing parts at it. This past weekend I replaced the ignition tumbler, the ignition switch on the column and today I replaced the EEC relay. When I check voltage to the stater solenoid I get voltage to both sides??? I also get voltage from the red ignition wire to the top of the solenoid. Otherwise have zero power to the rest of the truck. No radio, no dome lights, no headlights, power locks, power windows or back glass. What gives?
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1996 ford explorer xlt 4.0. One day it worked fine the next day it would not start. When I turn the key there are no dash lights or exterior lights, nothing. There is also no crank over no noise of any kind. I checked all my fuses, I had one in my power distributer. It was for my premium sound, amplifier ect. I cant check the relays I don't have the correct tools. I was thinking maybe the pcm relay has gone bad? I tried jumping the car as well and nothing happened at all either.
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I have a 02 f350 can not get power to a/c compressor have power at high pressure And low pressure can run a hot wire and ground to compressor and it works.
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I recenty was having some problems with my 2003 6.0 liter. My FICM connection was not seated all of the way which casued my truck to just die without warning....... AFter I had fixed that, my stereo died. Just dead??? Nothing...EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS???
So, after I had messed with everything I could think of, I thought, OK new DVD/Stereo time.
I checked fuse #32 which was the fuse to my stereo. The fuse is fine...BUT...There's no friggen power to the fuse via my test light. Test light works on other fuse spots so I know i"m not getting power to the fuse #32.
Since I don't have any power to this fuse....WHAT NOW???? How to trouble shoot this problem?
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I have an '88 E-250 with no power to accessories. Was starting fine but now no power to anywhere but the ignition light that is below and to the left of the steering wheel. No headlights or radio. Checked my fusible links but just visual so gotta get the meter out there and start poking around. Only thing I did different before it started this was take loose the ground wire holding strap that holds the middle of the ground wire to the body but I didn't think this was an actual ground spot but I could be wrong.
Earlier I reinstalled that strap and took out the ignition switch. I noticed that the radio turned on when I turned the key to acc. but not when I turned it to run. Would the headlights run through this ignition switch on the column? I have power to the yellow wires coming into the switch and the ground is good. I checked the fusible links I could find out in the engine bay and all tested good but could've missed some. Fuses in the box looked good but don't know if there is a master fuse box for bigger fuses but I don't see one.
1988 E-250 5.8 auto.
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I have a 2006 F350 Diesel. Had one of my employees go out to start the truck yesterday and when I went out I had no electrical power to most of the accessories (gauges, warning lights, power windows, radio, interior lights, turbo charger). It also seems to have no power - could barely make it go up the slight incline into my garage. I have checked all the fuses - they seem fine. Although put a tester on the interior fuse box and I don't have any power to the fuses that run these accessories.
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2002 f250 v10 4x4. Truck will loose all power...
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My truck had power to the Brake Controller until a recent road trip and now there is no power to the controller. All fuses are good. Which circuit the power comes from?
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I have 2 1986 Ford F250 supercab I switched cabs to put the better cab on my truck power windows wipers heater blower motor all light signals work no fuel gauge power or fuel pump power no power to the inertia switch
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I have a 2002 excursion XLT. it does not have power seats for the driver or passenger. I came across some power seats from a 2002 limited. what I need to know is, can I remove the non power seats and put in the seats from the limited, is the wiring already in the XLT model to just plug it in, or im I going to have to do some rewiring.
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I have a 04 explorer I have been trouble shooting and the master switch works all but the passenger window wont work it at all but all the others work fine, its not the switches replaced both, the passenger window switch will roll the window down but not back up. I checked for power there is power to the switch in the passenger side, the ground is good. I can pull the plug off the motor and hook a jumper ground up and the switch will make it go back up. I have been working in body shops for 40 years and now this is the first one to stump me
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Are there any fuses or relays that I could look for besides what the owners manual calls out? Haynes manual is useless w/this problem also. Everything else seems to work fine. Haven't tried the AC or heat, but my gauges, pwr locks and mirrors are all fine. I'm stuck w/the windows down and no tunes.
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I have a new to me 2008 F250 XLT. Neither side on the power mirrors is working. The manual shows fuse number twelve on the passenger side fuse block is the one that controls this circuit. The fuse is good (continuity wise). What I need to know is what color is the wire that feeds power to the switch block on the driver's side door panel. Pulled it out of the door panel and wiring was intact and corrosion free. I need to find out if there is power there or is it an issue between the fuse block and the switch.
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I bought a great 76' SuperCab with a 390 4 barrel Wednesday (the 30th) and while driving around the neighborhood this evening the truck just lost all power and came to a stop. No lights, no engine, nothing and I cruised to an easy stop (fortunately at the end of my own block). I thought I smelled a bit of electrical burn for a moment after I came to a stop but could not track it down before the smell disappeared.
Some early symptoms - on drive home from purchase, the turn signal light function was in and out. The starter was also turning slowly and sounded tired/weak. The ignition switch was a bit loose and previous owner said you had to make sure the key was not all the way to the right or accessories would not work.
Some early checks/fixes- replaced battery and battery cables and checked grounds. Starter began turning stronger and turn signal lights were back. Thought I had it going well.
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