I have a main tank and an Aux tank with a gauge selector switch. I believe I may have a bad fuse as the indicator has stopped working. Where it is on the fuse block??
1978 Ford F-250
I have a 1994 Ford Ranger king cab 4x4 with a three inch lift kit on it . My problem is the fuse is blowing that goes to the fuel pump . It started out blowing the fuse now and then when it was raining . Well I thought it mite be the fuel pump going bad but after I put the new pump in the truck it lasted about a week and started blowing fuses again . I put another fuse in and it go a few days and blow it . Last week on a 100 mile tripe I got almost there and it burned a fuse on the highway . I tried to put another fuse in and it would blow it as soon as I tried to start the truck . Burned five fuses right then . So I had it towed to mothers house and put another fuse in and it cranked up . I looked at the wiring that was not wrapped in that plastic cover stuff and have not found anything yet ...
View 14 RepliesI have 2 1986 Ford F250 supercab I switched cabs to put the better cab on my truck power windows wipers heater blower motor all light signals work no fuel gauge power or fuel pump power no power to the inertia switch
View 12 RepliesMy fuel gauge indicates empty at all times. The first suggestion I received was to replace the sending unit in the gas tank. I did that but the gauge still indicates empty.
I tried the HEC Dealer test mode and I now know that FUEL reads 255. Which should be an 'open' state. The connector near the fuel tank does appear to be making good contact, so my suspicion is a broken wire somewhere between the rear of the truck and the front.
I tried following the wire on it's way towards the front of the truck, but I quickly loose sight of the wire as more branches enter into the wiring harness. Where does this wire end? Does it terminate in the engine compartment, at the instrument cluster, somewhere else?
I just can't figure out how to narrow down where the break in the wire might be. Or am I chasing down the wrong root cause?
I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
I need to hook up a lamp for my mechanical oil pressure gauge and tested all the fuses, they are either on or on with key in run position, but I found none that went on with the lights, which of course is what I need. So now I guess I start randomly sticking needles in wires under the dash and testing for a possible light switch dependent circuit? Or run a wire through the firewall and tap a wire near a running light? There's got to be an easier way, but my Haynes manual seems useless--one wiring diagram for 1995-2008. I will be forced to run it off a key on circuit which means the lamp will be on anytime I drive, day or night, unless I install a toggle switch--not the best way to do it though.
View 3 RepliesOverdrive fuse keeps blowing. Drive one and 2 shifts fine. 3 and overdrive don't work. Had transmission checked it is fine. Repair shop says it is electrical.
View 1 RepliesI want to add a CB and some flood lights to my pick-up, but am getting tired of hunting for wires that are constant hot or switched hot under the dash. Not to mention the rats nest of wiring that results, and the potential for overloading the factory wiring.
Above is a diagram that I came up with while trying to figure out how to add a constant hot fuse block, and a switched hot (or ACC) fuse block to the truck to clean up the wiring.
Am I using the relays in the right way? (Never used one before)...
I recenty was having some problems with my 2003 6.0 liter. My FICM connection was not seated all of the way which casued my truck to just die without warning....... AFter I had fixed that, my stereo died. Just dead??? Nothing...EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS???
So, after I had messed with everything I could think of, I thought, OK new DVD/Stereo time.
I checked fuse #32 which was the fuse to my stereo. The fuse is fine...BUT...There's no friggen power to the fuse via my test light. Test light works on other fuse spots so I know i"m not getting power to the fuse #32.
Since I don't have any power to this fuse....WHAT NOW???? How to trouble shoot this problem?
2006 F-250 SD... I Keep popping the 15A #17 fuse under certain conditions - Driving forward
1. Start with good fuse.
2. Start engine, while in park, turn on parking light...4.8A on circuit. No problems.
3. Put into reverse and drive. down the block around the corner and back up to the house... No problem. 4.8A on circuit.
Put the shifter into drive and - POP - the fuse goes. I never see a jump in the current. 1-5 seconds until fuse goes. While conducting testing, I have had the fuse blow when shifting from reverse to park. Looking at the wiring diagrams, I don't see a common wire that would cause a short when shifting. What I should try next?
I have a 2006 F350 Diesel. Had one of my employees go out to start the truck yesterday and when I went out I had no electrical power to most of the accessories (gauges, warning lights, power windows, radio, interior lights, turbo charger). It also seems to have no power - could barely make it go up the slight incline into my garage. I have checked all the fuses - they seem fine. Although put a tester on the interior fuse box and I don't have any power to the fuses that run these accessories.
View 10 RepliesMy 2005 4.6L 4x4 screw is blowing the 10amp a/c clutch, 4x4 solenoid fuse whenever i turn the a/c on, at times whenever I turn the defrost on. the fuse does not blow when i turn the key to power (no engine start) but when engine is running fuse will trip. I disconnected elect. Connection at compressor and fuse still blows, also seems like no power or life from compressor.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1994 f150 5.0 engine and automatic transmission. Problem I am having is speedometer, cruise control is not working. Overdrive light is flashing and number 18 fuse keep blowing. horn is still working...
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
View 4 RepliesI purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
View 1 Replieshere its is i have a 1986 ford f350 6.9 aftermarket turbo set up i was driving it then i went over rail road tracks lost all power to fuse box no headlights no interior lights no ignition power batteries are good so now when i turn key nothing lights up it just killed my whole truck....
View 7 RepliesI posted earlier about the tranny in my 01 Ex v10 having a transmission problem. The show looked at it and found the O2 sensor had shorted out and in some way sending the truck in to limp home causing the tranny fuse to blow????
Any way they fixed it or so they said and I drove it for a few hours and it did fine. The next morning I drove it and it blew the fuse. (under hood box I belive #19) I took it back to the shop and they beat and banged on it....got it wet etc. and can not get it to do it again. I know whe have an electrical issue but what all runs off of the fuse that controlls the tranny?
Is there any online wiring diagrams of excursions or superduty drive trains? Where all to look for the problem?
I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
View 5 Replies2001 F-350 diesel. Out of nowhere, I start the truck and there's no turn signals. Fuse is blown so I replace it. It immediately blows. Tail lights work. No turn signal, brake lights, or hazards. I haven't hooked up a trailer or done anything abnormal recently. Only the #1 fuse (20Amp) is blown. Pulled bulbs and they work fine. Inspected wiring under and near lights. NOTHING! Any way to localize a short?
View 2 RepliesI'm about to dropkick my oil gauge but need to make sure that it is the problem. It WAS working but recently stopped. Here's what I have:
Dolphin electric oil gauge as part of their 6 gauge kit...fairly new oil sending unit (it's been on a year or so but the truck is not road worthy yet)....312 V8 and all of this is in a '53 F100.
I have verified, by hooking up a direct oil pressure gauge, that there is oil pressure. I have checked my wiring (it is all new from about a year ago) and it is all hooked up. My question is with the oil gauge removed, how can I hook up power to it and see if it works?
I could just go replace the sending unit but being that it is new I'm not going to throw parts at it just yet.