Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Dark Blue Wire Connects To Cruise Control?
Nov 2, 2013
I have a wire that i think belongs to my Cruise control and I can't find out were it connects. It is dark blue/green stripe. It is in a wiring bundle with the oil sending wires ( two wires blk/w and y/o ).
I also get a code ....no sig from clutch neutral switch.
I just got done putting new heads on my little 2.9 and can't wait to use this as my daily drive. These two wiring issues are keeping my truck from running well enough to drive.
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Looking for wiring diagram for the older Ford cruise control switches. I'm wanting to add an aftermarket system but use the factory switches. It's for a 99 ranger with the steering wheels like the mark 8s, older mustangs, explorers, and many others, had.
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i have a 96 ranger and want to put cruise control in it. is the wiring there and what other parts do i need to get without going aftermarket.
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I am trying to find out if Ford's cruise control has gotten crappy, or if mine has problems in my '06 F250. When I set the cruise, it goes about 3 MPH above what I set it at, then drops to about 3 MPH below, then it eventually stays where I set it. That is until I come to the top of an overpass or other small grade, then it is back to about 3 MPH over again as I reach the top and level out, then going back to where I set it.
The cruise control in my previous Ford trucks (83 & 91), as well as my 82 Mustang, 85 Lincoln, wife's 97 Toyota and the 2013 Chevy rental I just had, works fine. Where you set it is where it stays. Of course going up or down a steep grade, they all are going to lose or gain speed.
Anyway, I have taken the truck to the dealer twice for the cruise control. The first time is when I got the truck in '08. They replaced something else non-related, and said that would fix the cruise. It did work marginally, as the fluctuation was +-4 MPH before. I just took it in again before it goes off warranty, and they said the cruise is operating normally. So, there's my story. Is this normal, or is something wrong?
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I have an 89 f250 7.3. horn has not been working for the longest time the relay clicks but still nothing. It doesn't matter weather the key is in the on or off position. I know it might be a grounding problem because the cruise control does not work any more (even though recently it was working just fine). I didn't see any bad fuses.
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F250 6.8L .. So Ive read a lot of posts about intermittent cruise control issues. I understand that the most common failure is the brake switch on the master cylinder. My concern is that I am unable to run the cruise control self test I keep reading about. Does this test not work on my model year. I have tried even when the cruise control is working and still the cc light does no come on.
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I have a 1994 f150 5.0 engine and automatic transmission. Problem I am having is speedometer, cruise control is not working. Overdrive light is flashing and number 18 fuse keep blowing. horn is still working...
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Where is the cruise control amplifier located on an 85 F-150? The Chilton manual just says "behind the instrument panel". No pic or further description. Just looking up from the bottom of the dash I see a "black box" with 2 wires going into the top of it located just between the steering column and the wiper switch.
Is this it?
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I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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1997 F250 HD 7.3L It is a May build so is mainly 1996 parts. Came from the factory with auto transmission but PO did manual swap. Truck had factory cruise control but never worked after the swap. I found clutch safety switch missing so installed that and now it works as far as truck only starting with clutch in and other pins ohm good but it didn't fix the no cruise issue. All the diagrams I can find are wrong so I am stumped.
Horn works and steering wheel brushes appear to be functional.
Brake switch has 12V in and out so I think it is ok.
Brake switch on master cylinder has power in and out so I believe it is ok.
All brake lights work since I read that diagrams don't show it but they are somehow tied into the cruise.
I believe the issue is in the clutch safety switch (CPPS) wiring as I only have power on one wire however my colors don't match my Haynes or online diagrams. Also, no where can I find if this circuit runs on hot 12V or ground. Some wrong diagrams show hot 12V coming in on the light green wire from the brake switch but others show a hard ground on the red/Blu wire.
Most diagrams say I should have red/LtBlu, Red/LtGrn, LtGrn, Gray/Yellow. I actually have Red/Blue, White/Red, Tan/Blue, White/Brn. The White/Brn has power coming into the switch.
The connector for the automatic transmission column shifter is disconnected and the shifter was removed. I read that this needed to be jumpered to the tan/blue wire after a conversion on the CPPS but only on 2002 and up trucks so I don't think this affects me. That plug is for overdrive cancel.
Looking for a good diagram for a manual shift, diesel cruise control circuit that shows my color wires on the CPPS? I have had this truck 2 months and have fixed everything except this and will be making a long trip soon so cruise would be nice to have functional but I am stumped.
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1991 F250 Supercab Diesel 4X4. I made a mistake while wiring up my trailer lights and ended up grounding out my brake controller, frying it. Along with that, I popped a couple fuses as well (1, 5 and 9 I believe). Replaced all fuses and got my signals (F/R) back at least.
Here's what's NOT working/messed up:
*Brake Lights
*Cruise Control
*Rear ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving.
*Front hazards work, not rear. When I apply the brake, the hazards pause in the on position.
I've tested the brake switch on the brake pedal (Green/Red and Green) and it works properly. So, current is obviously not reaching the rear brake lights.
Another note. The truck is wired with a 7 pin plug in the bed for a goose neck trailer. It also was wired to a 6 pin on the bumper. I replaced the 6 pin with a 7. The signal/brake pins on the plugs (both) and also not receiving power. What's the next thing to check?
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Just bought a used, 03 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat. Having some minor electrical issues. While cleaning truck, I discovered a red wire coming into engine area on passenger side of vehicle. Wire has a built in 40amp fuse but isn't connected to anything. What this is for/ should be connected to???
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Only numbers 1,2,5 match the diagram below. my 6,7,8 are BK/W, PK/B, BR/PK. My Sony CD player came with bare wires. So I could cut off the truck oem plug. How hard is it to find a plug that goes from my OEM plug to my Sony CD player?
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My 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
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My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
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I've searched all over and can't seem to find the answer. When I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct?
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The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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On a 2008 E250, Where is the dome light wire and what color is it? To use with an omega security system.
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I have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
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I would like to hook up some auxiliary reverse lights, I want to use a relay. And activate the relay when I put my truck in reverse. I would like the relay to be in my custom relay/fuse box under my hood near my battery. I'm looking for a wire I can tap into, to use to active the relay as close to the battery as possible. Or at least a wire on the outside of the cab near the engine compartment. Maybe there's one coming from the tranny? I have a 2011 f250 super duty. XL, I think, its a very base model truck no power windows or locks, only fm/am radio, no NAV system, no remote unlock, no nothing, 2 wheel drive.
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