Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Battery Light Is On In The Dash / Overcharging?
Mar 15, 2013
The battery light is on in my dash. To test it I probed the car battery with a multimeter. Car off the battery reads 12.5 volts. With the car running and no headlights on, heater fan off, etc the meter reads 15-15.5volts. When I turn everything electrical I can think of on the meter reads 14-14.5volts. Is this normal or is the second scenario overcharging the battery? What else can I test that may be keeping the battery light on in the dash?
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Really need diagnosing an on going electrical problem I'm having. It's on a 05 X 4x4 V10 with almost 113k miles.
Background : Last summer took a road trip and alternator went out and was replaced. On that trip started seeing problems with my cruise control, when the headlights(HID's) turn on they dim the dash, and hi's cause the speedometer and other gauges to quickly flux and then go back to proper readings.
Everything was "alright" in the sense that the only problems were those stated above. Well tuesday night on my way home from school, I was driving on the surface streets, stopped at a light.....then all of a sudden the battery symbol on the dash flashed and no more than a second later, the car stopped. All dash lights/radio (double din) still on and headlights still on, but couldn't start the X at all.
Was able to wait a bit and once my parents got there it did start and I was able to pull off to the side and diagnose it a little better, dad looked at it and at the moment couldn't really tell what would be wrong. I had him drive it home for me though. It's been starting fine again but I have NO CLUE as to what to look for and really would like to find out what's happening.
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When the 4x4 switch is moved to 4x4 high, what is the sequence of operation?
I note the 4x4 light on the dash has a small delay. Does the switch engage the transfer case and draw a vacuum to the hubs or does the transfer case engage first and then close a relay to light on the dash and engage the hubs? I have hubs that are not working, but no detectable vacuum leak, a dash signal lit for the 4x4, but a wheel still turning freely. My vacuum hoses are all soft and pliable.
I'm trying to figure out what my dash signal is telling me, if anything, before proceeding. Fuse for transfer case is good.
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2005 Ranger XL 2.3L 5 speed 2WD 305,000 miles. Alternator has about 100,000 miles on it.
Battery light came on about 0400 and 50 miles into my daily 90 mile drive to work, made it to work. After the truck cooled down for 3 hours and I got time I checked the battery voltage 12.6VDC and started the engine and the system is charging at 14.2VDC with no battery light on (battery light out when cold). Serpentine belt looks good, dry weather.
Other than alternator nearing end of life and being warm is there anything else that may cause battery light to come on.
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I have an 02 Ranger 4.0 4WD and I have been doing a lot of research to try and figure out why the battery light comes on and off. I was driving the other day down the highway and the battery light came on and voltage gauge dropped. Drive a little further and it goes off, go down hill light comes on, up hill it turns off. (The up and down hill part was probably just a coincidence!) ...
Next day I pulled the alternator and had it tested at O'Reillys and it passed no issues. Yesterday I was driving again the light comes on my way home from the store and stays on for about 3 miles til I got home. Turned my truck off, restarted it later, no light. Today I drove around for a while and about 45 minutes into my driving around the light comes back on and voltage gauge drops and after about a mile it turned off. I stopped by O'Reillys again to have them test the complete charging system and everything passed. On the way home, light comes on again!
So, question is, the battery light was not on when they tested, will that make a difference in the outcome of the tests? I'm guessing not??? Belt looks good, no bad connections that I have found, battery was good...what am I missing? Battery light is still on and voltage low when I start truck after 1.5 hours of being home. Also, I get no magnetism from the alternator when the battery light is on.
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I have a '97 F250 diesel and the battery light keeps coming on and off. The volt meter shows a good charge. How do I fix this?
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I have a 1999 Ford F150 6 cyl. 4.2, 2 WD with 160,000 miles. Replaced the battery May 2010.
Today battery light came on. Battery gauge did not look like it was discharging. Had battery checked they said it was a little low but OK. Then they continued test and tried to check alternator, test stopped and they said something wrong with alternator most likely.
I took alternator out and had it bench tested. They said it was OK, putting out 98 amp on 95 amp alternator. They said check wires, grounds, harness, connections. Checked connections and wires as much as possible, reinstalled alternator, light still on.
Have not checked fuses yet. Was told to start vehicle, disconnect positive battery cable and if engine continued to run alternator was good, if cut off alternator was bad and to replace. Should I try this and is it true?
What is the part on the fire wall that is between the alternator and the battery that the wire connection runs through? Can it be bench tested/checked?
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So I get in my X today and she fires right up as usual... Then the battery light started blinking then stayed on... Then I hear a click and all my stock gauges go out my window and lock switches don't work and my radio doesn't work... Battery light stays on and all signals work as do the mirrors and everything else... I turn the truck off then back on it all comes back on.. 15-20 seconds later I hear the click and all the same stuff is off again.... No seemingly applicable fuses are blown... And the behavior is repeatable...
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What the code "32" means for the airbag? Lately my airbag light on the dash will blink 3-2 for several cycles then stays on solid til I shut down the truck.
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Okay, my 1986 f150 with a 351w (non-feedback carbed) Has no lights on the cluster, and none of the gauges work (haven't tested the speedo yet, truck is not registered yet).
I also have a minor issue with the turn signals... Fronts work, no rears. The left turn indicator light on the dash does not come on but the right turn one does. All my "primary lights" (markers, tail, headlights) work fine. I have not yet tested the brake lights.
Fuses all look good, truck did have some roof leaks. I've done some research, does this sound like the dreaded voltage regulator issue for the gauges?
My assumption for the left turn indicator light is that there is a replaceable bulb in the dash (probably blown), is that right? Rear signals might be wiring (PO installed his own trailer wiring) or bulbs? haven't gotten that far into it yet...
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I have a 1981 F100, lately when I've been driving at night I notice my headlights, dash lights, and charging light will flicker at the same time, and even sometimes my headlights will flash on and off by themselves.
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Start out, drive about 20 minutes, get on the Interstate and the battery light comes on 2008 F 150 5.4L 4X4 - 57K miles..... get to my destination, went about 20 miles, turn around to come home, without turning the truck off because of the battery light being on and I notice the charging gauge drifting down to the left, get back on the Interstate and the wipers are slowing down and lights on the dash are dimming.....go around 15 more minutes I lose all lights on dash, wipers, defroster everything, charging gauge is now pegged all the way down to the left and the truck is starting to act up running like crap so I barely make it off the Interstate and call a flatbed, I guess I was about an hour into the trip ..... battery is only about a year old and it started fine that morning and the day before when it was about 12 degrees ...... dealership had the truck, just gave me a call and said they can't find anything ?? ..... never a days problem since I bought it new in late 07' ....
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98 Ford Expedition 4.6L, 198K Miles, New Battery, Alternator replaced, but battery light still on and after a minute charge indicator drop until left indicating zero, temp gauge on top while temperature motor is cold, gas gauge drop, when lights are turned on oil light turn on also check engine both for a few of seconds.
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Problem with my 2006 F150 5.4 4x4... Voltmeter spikes, battery light comes on, grinding noise as 4x4 engages on its own then everything returns to normal after about 60 seconds. Took to Ford who replaced the alternator and battery, still doing it so they replaced the alternator again...they checked the wiring and replaced some other misc parts and don't know what the problem is. The problem occurs once every few days, after only a few minutes or after a few hours, completely random.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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Need a wire diagram. I have a connector in the cab that has red,blue,lt green,white wires. It's causing my brake lights not to work. I need a wire diagram that shows were they go. I can't find these wires in my Haynes manual.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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I have a 1991 idi diesel f250. My dash lights have entirely gone out and i cannot seem to figure out why, i checked the fueses under the driver dash and under the hood for that matter and nothing is blown.
At the same time, the dome lights, door lights, cab lights, stereo, windows, ever the light in the ash trey etc, work perfectly fine. Could a wire have come loose behind the dash cluster and shorted out everything in the driver area?
I still get the high beam signal, check engine, engine, wait to start, and water in fuel light in the cluster. but no back lighting (when turning the key to the on position)...
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I have a '84 Bronco and before I redid all the ignition wiring when I turned off the key the engine would stay running for about 6 seconds and then turn off. Now when I turn off the key and turn off a switch about 6-8 seconds later I here a click sound that comes from under and about center of the dash. And sometimes it clicks on and off in rapid secession kind of like when you flip a light switch on and off quickly. Some days it does it and some days it don't.
If I leave the battery hooked up then it drains the battery overnight or within a day, and sometimes its just fine. So to be safe I unhook the battery whenever its not being driven or started periodically. I am wondering what is in the center of the dash that needs power and that controls the ignition stuff?
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I have a vehicle I am storing for the winter, but do want to start it up on occasion just to keep it fresh. my question is this. I put a trickle charger on the battery to keep it charged up, its one of those chargers you can leave on indefinitely, once the green light goes on the charger, it goes into maintanance mode. but I've had the charger on for a week now and it seems the battery won't take a full charge. to put the battery charger into maintance mode. is it dangerous to keep charging a battery that won't fully charge up?
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Dash lights are not working in my 78 F150. The climate control lights come on and are dimable with the headlight switch. I pulled the cluster and the Blue/Red wire has voltage. Which might be the ground? The Seat belt light comes on at start and the left turn signal will blink. What am I missing. Oh the cluster is deteriorating. some of the bulb holes are chipping out.
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