Earlier this year had dead battery after sitting for a week. 5 year old battery so bought new one battery still goes dead randomly (overnight), instead of playing radio for a few minutes after key off, dash displays "system off to conserve power" ran it thru local repair place (ex ford dealer) nothing found. Voltage 14v at 1800 rpm, lights on". STILL goes dead randomly...
View 6 RepliesI have a 02 f350 v10 with a starting problem. Sometimes it will crank but really slowly almost like the battery is dead, but its not! bench tested the battery and actually just bought another new one. And with the same result. I tested the relay that's on the firewall in between the starter and the battery and it checked out, i also bought a new relay and i want to put it in except I haven't figured out which wire goes to the coil and which one goes to the ignition. the battery and starter poles are marked and easy to follow ..
Also last month I changed the starter but I'm starting to get desperate and i think I'm going to take it off and have it bench tested as well. I'm just really at a loss in which direction to go. The truck on the outside really looks good but living in the northeast the frame and probably most of the outside grounds are toast and I've been renewing or just placing them as I come across them. Before i forget i tried jumping the starter directly from the battery with cables and got the same result. it would crank but too slow to actually turn over.. Sometimes my radio and ignition lights will sometimes come on without the key in the ignition..
I recently bought a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. I have been having problems with the electrical system, the battery consistently going dead despite a new battery and alternator installed by the previous owner. Is there a step-by-step for diagnosis of this problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
View 3 RepliesLike the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
View 14 Replies2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit. I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit. I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though.
View 14 RepliesI've tried putting new batteries in my mini van and the battery goes dead after a day or 2. I've had it to the dealer before and they said it's a bad battery. which clearly it's not. I had a meter between the grounds on the battery and pulled all fuses under the hood and no change. I'm a quadriplegic and it's a nightmare when I go out with my aid to go to a doctors appointment and my van is dead. I don't have any money for the dealer again. I don't think the chrysler dealer even looked at it and took advantage of my situation. Its a 2003 Town country with only 29,000 miles. could it be the alternator drawing power when the car is off?
View 1 Repliesm having a really difficult time with my '95 7.3. Basically, the PCM is randomly shifting the transmission out and back into 4th with the TC locked. When I say randomly, I mean very randomly: sometimes once in a 100 miles, other times chronically, with no relation to weather, temps, incline, driving conditions, etc.
According to FORScan (using a high quality ODBLink SX USB cable) some sensors are showing a 0.04V dither (this is with the engine off, van immobile): I've already replaced the PCM ($$$) to no avail.
I'm truly lost as to what to try next. I'm about ready to drive this thing into a canyon. FORScan screen shot showing 0.04V spikes
2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 on it. Daily driver. Keeps randomly blowing 10A fuse under dash that controls ABS4X4 urn signals. No routine causes. Just blows at random times. Fuses were blowing instantly upon replacing then stopped. Doesn't blow when turning switches for turn signals or when turning it to 4x4. Just does it randomly. Sometimes will go months without blowing. Tore dash apart and can't find any wiring issues there. Could be somewhere else? Is ABS4X4. Turn signals going bad?
View 6 RepliesI pumped gas at the local Chevron after noticing I was running just below a quarter tank this morning and immediately after turning the truck back on the instrument panel was dead. All other electric components worked fine (windows, headlights, signals, radio, etc.) Yukon GMC 2003 110k miles...
View 8 RepliesI have a vehicle I am storing for the winter, but do want to start it up on occasion just to keep it fresh. my question is this. I put a trickle charger on the battery to keep it charged up, its one of those chargers you can leave on indefinitely, once the green light goes on the charger, it goes into maintanance mode. but I've had the charger on for a week now and it seems the battery won't take a full charge. to put the battery charger into maintance mode. is it dangerous to keep charging a battery that won't fully charge up?
View 8 Replies2005 Ranger XL 2.3L 5 speed 2WD 305,000 miles. Alternator has about 100,000 miles on it.
Battery light came on about 0400 and 50 miles into my daily 90 mile drive to work, made it to work. After the truck cooled down for 3 hours and I got time I checked the battery voltage 12.6VDC and started the engine and the system is charging at 14.2VDC with no battery light on (battery light out when cold). Serpentine belt looks good, dry weather.
Other than alternator nearing end of life and being warm is there anything else that may cause battery light to come on.
The instrument cluster in my 2005 Mountaineer has been randomly "failing" for about 2 months. By "failing", I mean the gauges will go to zero and bounce, the dash lights will go on and off, and the radio will go out. The car will continue driving normally. Headlights stay on, windows work, cruise works, interior lights work. This random event lasts about 4 seconds. It may do it again within minutes, or not again for the day. Sometimes, when I open the car door to get in (keys not in ignition), I will notice the gauges are bouncing at the zero mark. I took it to the shop, but of course it didn't do it there. They checked the alternator and battery. Battery is old, but checked out. A few weeks later, complete Alternator failure. Replaced the battery and alternator and I hoped that would solve the dash issue, but it did not. I've had it to the dealership, and to an independent, and their not sure what's up with it. The code readers give no insight.
View 8 RepliesI have an 02 Ranger 4.0 4WD and I have been doing a lot of research to try and figure out why the battery light comes on and off. I was driving the other day down the highway and the battery light came on and voltage gauge dropped. Drive a little further and it goes off, go down hill light comes on, up hill it turns off. (The up and down hill part was probably just a coincidence!) ...
Next day I pulled the alternator and had it tested at O'Reillys and it passed no issues. Yesterday I was driving again the light comes on my way home from the store and stays on for about 3 miles til I got home. Turned my truck off, restarted it later, no light. Today I drove around for a while and about 45 minutes into my driving around the light comes back on and voltage gauge drops and after about a mile it turned off. I stopped by O'Reillys again to have them test the complete charging system and everything passed. On the way home, light comes on again!
So, question is, the battery light was not on when they tested, will that make a difference in the outcome of the tests? I'm guessing not??? Belt looks good, no bad connections that I have found, battery was good...what am I missing? Battery light is still on and voltage low when I start truck after 1.5 hours of being home. Also, I get no magnetism from the alternator when the battery light is on.
The battery light is on in my dash. To test it I probed the car battery with a multimeter. Car off the battery reads 12.5 volts. With the car running and no headlights on, heater fan off, etc the meter reads 15-15.5volts. When I turn everything electrical I can think of on the meter reads 14-14.5volts. Is this normal or is the second scenario overcharging the battery? What else can I test that may be keeping the battery light on in the dash?
View 6 RepliesI have a '97 F250 diesel and the battery light keeps coming on and off. The volt meter shows a good charge. How do I fix this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F150 6 cyl. 4.2, 2 WD with 160,000 miles. Replaced the battery May 2010.
Today battery light came on. Battery gauge did not look like it was discharging. Had battery checked they said it was a little low but OK. Then they continued test and tried to check alternator, test stopped and they said something wrong with alternator most likely.
I took alternator out and had it bench tested. They said it was OK, putting out 98 amp on 95 amp alternator. They said check wires, grounds, harness, connections. Checked connections and wires as much as possible, reinstalled alternator, light still on.
Have not checked fuses yet. Was told to start vehicle, disconnect positive battery cable and if engine continued to run alternator was good, if cut off alternator was bad and to replace. Should I try this and is it true?
What is the part on the fire wall that is between the alternator and the battery that the wire connection runs through? Can it be bench tested/checked?
Was driving one day, and when I came to a stop sign, the car just died.. I couldn't start it up, so I pushed it to the side of the road.. I tried to turn the key again, and it fired right up... No issues for about a week, but then I came outside one morning, and the car was completely dead. No interior lights, dash wouldn't light up, nothing. (no cranking noise when you try to turn the key) I assumed it was because the battery was old, and the car had just been sitting there for about a week without being started up. I was about to give it a jump, but when I opened the door, the lights came on. I put the key in the ignition, the dash lit up, and the car fired right up.. No issues for about a week, until again, came outside, car was completely dead..
I used my other car to run up to the store, and when I came back, decided I would try to start up the DeVille again. Randomly, upon opening the door, the cabin lights lit up, and sure enough, car fired right up... no one had touched the car while I was gone.. I drove the car up to a shop near my house, where they tested the battery, which tested good. Terminals are all clean, and he made note that the ground connection to the car was also firm and clean. He offered to run a diagnostic the following Tuesday for $125. I returned home, drove the car once more over the weekend, but when I went to start the car Monday, it was again, completely dead. It's been over a week now, and I haven't been fortunate enough to get it to start. I again tried this morning in hopes that I would get lucky, but it's still completely dead.
My Honda has a strange problem that is vexing my mechanic. While I am driving, the engine spits and sputters and sometimes dies. I try to restart and it starts right up but runs rough. Sometimes it takes a while to start back up. If I wait a few minutes, it will start again and drive fine for a while. Then it will do it again. After it is warm or when it is cold at the start, it won't do it.My mechanic cannot get it to do it long enough to diagnose. The computer is not throwing any codes. I believe it is electrical because when it does this, the speedometer goes crazy bouncing up and down. Electrical problem also may explain why the computer is not throwing any codes. I need to narrow it down because my mechanic is reluctant to start trying things as I don't have a lot of money to throw at this.
View 4 RepliesMy truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it full and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
We'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
2008 F350 V10 CC SB DRW 4x4
So I get in my X today and she fires right up as usual... Then the battery light started blinking then stayed on... Then I hear a click and all my stock gauges go out my window and lock switches don't work and my radio doesn't work... Battery light stays on and all signals work as do the mirrors and everything else... I turn the truck off then back on it all comes back on.. 15-20 seconds later I hear the click and all the same stuff is off again.... No seemingly applicable fuses are blown... And the behavior is repeatable...
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