Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2015 - Adding A Switch To Dash Of E450
Apr 8, 2015
I have an 2015 450 chassis Class C motorhome. The backup camera is integrated into the Pioneer stereo in the dash. The stereo is wired into the headlight switch to automatically dim the display when the lights are turned on. Since I always drive with my headlights turned on, this makes it nearly impossible to see the screen during the daytime.
I learned from Pioneer what to do to disable this feature, but need to install a switch in the circuit to do this. I'm hoping to install a simple on/off toggle switch into the dashboard's existing space. In the picture below, I'm wanting to put the switch into the "round" hole marked Audio Jack.
My question is how do I get the "round plug" out of this hole? And need to know the diameter of the existing hole?
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I have a Derale 16749 electric fan controller set up had a fan die, went back to a old set up using a fan shroud I made and sable fans being the controller isn't set up to handle the load from these fans I want to just add relays in. Way the derale is set up to the fan is 12v. constant but the ground is also a 12v. until the switch reaches temp. then becomes a ground. I am not concerned with wiring the low side up on these fans just high side.
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Looking for wiring diagram for the older Ford cruise control switches. I'm wanting to add an aftermarket system but use the factory switches. It's for a 99 ranger with the steering wheels like the mark 8s, older mustangs, explorers, and many others, had.
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What I am trying to do it put in 2 led spot light for added backing up light. What i want to do is have them turn on when put into reverse but also have a switch i can use to turn them on when not in reverse. Just need to know what relay I need and if it even can be done.
I was also thinking of just taping into the wiring harness and adding a wire that goes to the spot lights and another wire that goes to a switch that I could turn on and supply power to the light when not in reverse (I know it will light the revers light also) but is it ok to do that?
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i have a 96 ranger and want to put cruise control in it. is the wiring there and what other parts do i need to get without going aftermarket.
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a buddy of mine has a 12 F250 that he bought new and is ready to add power locks and windows. I know we can get some aftermarket kits for both but he wants to use the factory door panels and switches from a power setup. I am sure we could use the factory window regulators and panels and just use and aftermarket wiring and flush mount switches. I had figured the wiring might be in the jambs but not in the doors, but when I pulled the trim back, we didn't find any extra wiring going to the rear doors, its a crew.
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I'm working on the '73 F250 in my sig. I'm not very skilled when it comes to electrical work and I don't want to hack things. First up is I'm wiring a 7-way trailer connector with brakes. I need to tap into the brake light switch at the pedal, what is the cleanest way to do this? I was thinking of sticking a blade connector in the existing connector or adding a plug pigtail.
Also in the future I will (hopefully) be doing a 3G alternator swap and adding relays to keep my headlights from shutting off. I'm looking for suggestions on a junkyard or aftermarket fuse block that will accommodate the circuit breaker for the trailer brake, the 100 amp fuse for the 3g swap and the relays for the headlights.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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Repaired my locks on my F350. Had the motor reversed. Before I figured that out I thought I needed to change the wires in the plug. Changed them and it didn't work, put them back and now the switch on that door does not work for the lock; however, all other switches work. What do I need to fix?
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I bought a set of driving lights to mount at the back of my F250 for extra light when backing up, and hooked them up to Upfitter #4, but they do not work. I mounted them on the hitch, grounded them both on the bed (where a support bracket attaches), ran the power wire up to the front of the truck, and connected it to the white blunt cut pass through wire by the master cylinder. Then inside the cab, I connected the other end of the white pass through wire to the orange/lt. blue wire for upfitter #4. I started the truck, flipped on the #4 switch, and nothing. What I did wrong?
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1989 F250, C6
Random starting problems. Starter relay did not fix it.
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So I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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I have a 2000 E150 (Glavel Conversion) van and the interior lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened, although they used to. They also no longer turn on from the headlight dimmer switch. They will turn on individually if the manual switch at each light is pressed while the engine is running, so the bulbs and wiring appear to be working. I replaced the headlight switch with no noticeable effect. Is there a timing circuit that switches these on for a short period of time to allow illuminated entry that could have failed? If so, where would I find the module and how would I test? Relays and fuses look good.
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The battery light is on in my dash. To test it I probed the car battery with a multimeter. Car off the battery reads 12.5 volts. With the car running and no headlights on, heater fan off, etc the meter reads 15-15.5volts. When I turn everything electrical I can think of on the meter reads 14-14.5volts. Is this normal or is the second scenario overcharging the battery? What else can I test that may be keeping the battery light on in the dash?
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I have a 1991 idi diesel f250. My dash lights have entirely gone out and i cannot seem to figure out why, i checked the fueses under the driver dash and under the hood for that matter and nothing is blown.
At the same time, the dome lights, door lights, cab lights, stereo, windows, ever the light in the ash trey etc, work perfectly fine. Could a wire have come loose behind the dash cluster and shorted out everything in the driver area?
I still get the high beam signal, check engine, engine, wait to start, and water in fuel light in the cluster. but no back lighting (when turning the key to the on position)...
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I have a '84 Bronco and before I redid all the ignition wiring when I turned off the key the engine would stay running for about 6 seconds and then turn off. Now when I turn off the key and turn off a switch about 6-8 seconds later I here a click sound that comes from under and about center of the dash. And sometimes it clicks on and off in rapid secession kind of like when you flip a light switch on and off quickly. Some days it does it and some days it don't.
If I leave the battery hooked up then it drains the battery overnight or within a day, and sometimes its just fine. So to be safe I unhook the battery whenever its not being driven or started periodically. I am wondering what is in the center of the dash that needs power and that controls the ignition stuff?
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When the 4x4 switch is moved to 4x4 high, what is the sequence of operation?
I note the 4x4 light on the dash has a small delay. Does the switch engage the transfer case and draw a vacuum to the hubs or does the transfer case engage first and then close a relay to light on the dash and engage the hubs? I have hubs that are not working, but no detectable vacuum leak, a dash signal lit for the 4x4, but a wheel still turning freely. My vacuum hoses are all soft and pliable.
I'm trying to figure out what my dash signal is telling me, if anything, before proceeding. Fuse for transfer case is good.
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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