Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2014 F150 - Starting System Fault / Body Control Module Malfunctioned
Jun 27, 2016
I own a 2014 F-150 XLT 3.5 L 6 cyl Twin. Saturday afternoon I tried to start the truck once and it didn't start like it normally does. It started on the second try, but the A/C didn't work and I got a "Starting System Fault" warning on my screen. When I shut the truck off, it would not start at all. All the lights and gauges worked, just no start.
Had to tow it to Ford Dealer, where the service department had already closed for the day (of course). Today it was determined by the service department that the Body Control Module had malfunctioned. I was told that the tech tapped on the control module and the truck started. Now waiting two days for a replacement part to come in. Luckily, I'm just under 36K miles and three years. Is this a common occurrence?
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I have an 06 F150 XLT and lately the map lights blink when starting and driving. This does not occur every time but it sure is a problem when driving at night. What is causing this and hopefully a minor repair.
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Where is the cruise control amplifier located on an 85 F-150? The Chilton manual just says "behind the instrument panel". No pic or further description. Just looking up from the bottom of the dash I see a "black box" with 2 wires going into the top of it located just between the steering column and the wiper switch.
Is this it?
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I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
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I bought a 2012 Prius C with 17,000mi on it in February this year(2015). The body control module apparently went out about a month after buying the car. The start-up screen would not say "ready" and shortly after turning the power on, the warning came on: stop the car immediately, something wrong with hybrid system, get to nearest dealer, etc.! it also appeared there were suddenly a number of other malfunctions in various systems as various warnings came up, one of which concerned the power steering.
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My points to electronic conversion suffered this problem, just started, set the timing and was idling, like ten minutes or more, suddendly the engine died, no spark, immediately I noticed the module was very hot, so was the ignition coil, it's a TFI "square" coil from a 1987 Econoline I6, the module is a new Spartan brand name blue module.
I cooled the module with a wet rag and the engine came back to life. I hooked up the module and the coil with full 12V, no ballast resistance for the coil, I'm feeling this is the problem, maybe this coil needed a ballast resistor?
I have this 1.6 ohmm ballast, if I install this, will the coil run cooler and put less strain in the module, so it won't overheat? or the TFI coil is wrong for the Duraspark ? it was running fine with the points, never missed a beat, never tested how hot it run with the points though, but I did used the ballast resistor with the points.
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I have a 2012 prius c and just replaced the body control module - no problem there, but now the ac and fan will not turn on. Fuses visually look ok (I don't have a tester) and they had been working previously. I live on Molokai - no prius mechanic on the island so I do my own repair when I can - how to diagnose the problem?
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Where it is located in a 97 F150 XLT Automatic with the ESOF?
Transfer Case Shift Relay Module
If it goes bad, would it be possible to still select 4L just no 4H?
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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2000 GM Buick Regal. Parked the car overnight and in the morning could not start the car. Mechanic said the BMC memory was completely lost. I would like to avoid this happening again. Car battery is 6 months old and strong. What would cause a total memory loss in a BCM when parked in a lot overnight.
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Looking for wiring diagram for the older Ford cruise control switches. I'm wanting to add an aftermarket system but use the factory switches. It's for a 99 ranger with the steering wheels like the mark 8s, older mustangs, explorers, and many others, had.
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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I have a 1999 Ford F150 6 cyl. 4.2, 2 WD with 160,000 miles. Replaced the battery May 2010.
Today battery light came on. Battery gauge did not look like it was discharging. Had battery checked they said it was a little low but OK. Then they continued test and tried to check alternator, test stopped and they said something wrong with alternator most likely.
I took alternator out and had it bench tested. They said it was OK, putting out 98 amp on 95 amp alternator. They said check wires, grounds, harness, connections. Checked connections and wires as much as possible, reinstalled alternator, light still on.
Have not checked fuses yet. Was told to start vehicle, disconnect positive battery cable and if engine continued to run alternator was good, if cut off alternator was bad and to replace. Should I try this and is it true?
What is the part on the fire wall that is between the alternator and the battery that the wire connection runs through? Can it be bench tested/checked?
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I recently received an airbag fault light so I figured that I would scan the module for error codes. This is what I came up with:
Control Module Part Number: 3D0 909 601 C
Component and/or Version: 05 Airbag 8.4E++H01 0352
Software Coding: 0012341
Work Shop Code: WSC 31414
Additional Info: 7L0959339B BF-Gewichtsens. 005 0006
Additional Info: Geraet 00000
2 Faults Found:
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter: Driver Side (N199)
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Has scanned the car while had the airbag fault present and if so, is this the usual harness that needs to be changed?
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My center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
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Just bought a used, 03 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat. Having some minor electrical issues. While cleaning truck, I discovered a red wire coming into engine area on passenger side of vehicle. Wire has a built in 40amp fuse but isn't connected to anything. What this is for/ should be connected to???
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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