Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2011 F250 - Reverse Light Wire Under The Hood?
Dec 6, 2014
I would like to hook up some auxiliary reverse lights, I want to use a relay. And activate the relay when I put my truck in reverse. I would like the relay to be in my custom relay/fuse box under my hood near my battery. I'm looking for a wire I can tap into, to use to active the relay as close to the battery as possible. Or at least a wire on the outside of the cab near the engine compartment. Maybe there's one coming from the tranny? I have a 2011 f250 super duty. XL, I think, its a very base model truck no power windows or locks, only fm/am radio, no NAV system, no remote unlock, no nothing, 2 wheel drive.
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I've searched all over and can't seem to find the answer. When I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct?
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I am wanting to wire my 03 f250 cargo (3rd brake light area) lights to come on when i put my truck in reverse.
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1980 F-250, 351M. Battery tests OK - 500 cold cranking amps. New starter, new starter solenoid. When I turn the key to ignition, small click under the hood on driver's side. Turn to start, the starter solenoid clicks once, but no turnover. After that, all electrical is dead - no lights, no horn, no radio, no clicks. Turn the key to accessory, gauges work, but no radio, etc. Turn the key to ignition, nothing. Tried jumping from another car, and the cables melted.
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On a 2008 E250, Where is the dome light wire and what color is it? To use with an omega security system.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
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My hazard, reverse don't work. The over all instruments panel light doesn't light up (the small bulbs work). Gauges with needles work. I'm putting every thing back into the truck. I left the steering wheel resting on the floor while cleaning and also left the wiring in. Everything else came out because I had to clean out the smell of mice. After I installed the instrument panel I started the truck, there was no hazard lights. I checked all the fuses under the dash. I checked all the fuses under the hood.
I did have a bent brake plug blade to bend straight. I need to replace a bad key cylinder, you can turn it without a key. I believe there were three plugs I unplug to lower the steering wheel. Park brake, brake pedal and a plug under the steering wheel. Wipers, interior ceiling light work. I believe there's a switch on the column (?) that includes the wiper arm. Should it also operate the hazard lights ? The steering column is installed, I can drive it around. Outside cargo lights won't go off, even with the light switch pushed in. Everything worked before.
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Just bought a used, 03 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat. Having some minor electrical issues. While cleaning truck, I discovered a red wire coming into engine area on passenger side of vehicle. Wire has a built in 40amp fuse but isn't connected to anything. What this is for/ should be connected to???
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Only numbers 1,2,5 match the diagram below. my 6,7,8 are BK/W, PK/B, BR/PK. My Sony CD player came with bare wires. So I could cut off the truck oem plug. How hard is it to find a plug that goes from my OEM plug to my Sony CD player?
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My 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
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My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
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I have a '97 F250 diesel and the battery light keeps coming on and off. The volt meter shows a good charge. How do I fix this?
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The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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I have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
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I have a wire that i think belongs to my Cruise control and I can't find out were it connects. It is dark blue/green stripe. It is in a wiring bundle with the oil sending wires ( two wires blk/w and y/o ).
I also get a code ....no sig from clutch neutral switch.
I just got done putting new heads on my little 2.9 and can't wait to use this as my daily drive. These two wiring issues are keeping my truck from running well enough to drive.
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I pulled my CD player and put it back in and now my air bag light won't go out when it self tests. It blinks for a while then stays on steady. What's up with that -- I thought I was having enough problems with the CD player as it was?
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I have a 2004 250 SD. Supercab. Took out the bench and replaced with captains or buckets, whatever you want to call them. Perfect fit. The new seats have their own seat belts built in to them. The old ones, were mounted to the floor and roof. Now the air bag light blinks for a fairly long time, then stays on! What? OK, So, what do I NOT know about this project? I did have to make the wires longer in order to reconnect the plugs. Not a problem, I am an electrician. Trouble shooting is ok, when you know where to start.
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I have a 1976 Ford F100 with a 302 and my problem is sometimes when my engine is running and I try to cut it off, it continues to run and the only way to stop it is to jerk the coil wire off. This is an intermittent problem. Happens about every 6 or 7 times I drive it. I have replaced the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Pretty sure it is some type wiring or ground issue, just need someplace to start.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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