Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2009 - CEL On With Code P144a - No Start - Key Fob Not Working?
Nov 25, 2014
Today my wife came home and said CEL was on, so I connected a bluetooth OBD2 reader (like I have done before) and read the codes, a P144a, which has something to do with the EVP. So, I shut the key off and proceeded to take the hose off of the EVP and unhook the wiring connector and then start the car to see if there was a vacuum leak through the valve. Well, when I went to start the car, it would not start. The Securilock icon was flashing on the dash and the car would only click, it would not turn over. I tried our spare key and got the same results.
I have tried unhooking the battery for 30 minutes but that has not made a difference either. Now, the key fob won't work at all, the door power locks won't work, the windows don't work, the radio, lights, heat and A/C won't work, and the dome lights won't come on. Whenever the battery is connected, I can hear a fast clicking sound coming from the area beneath and behind the radio and the front marker lights are on very very dim. The battery tests out at 12 volts. What in the world did I do and how can I fix it?
I should also note that I cannot get my OBD2 reader to connect to the system anymore. Also, after trying to leave the battery unhooked for 30 minutes again, the dome lights started working and the power locks would lock the door, but within about 3 seconds, the doors would automatically unlock. After turning the key to the start position, I again lost the dome lights and power locks.
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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I own a Ford escape 2010. the engine light stays on continuously. The car wont pass inspection (required in MA). I just took the car to an Auto service place and they came up with the code P144A. Ford dealership refuses to provide me with a interpretation of that code # unless I bring it in and they can do a diagnostic themselves.... What that particular code is in english. (It has to do with the engine).
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I have been trying to resolve the last of my codes on my MAF conversion on a 460. I am using an EEC-V box and had two codes I couldn't get rid of. I solved one yesterday, P0443 a evap purge code, by running the circuit directly from the EEC to the VMV.
The current issue is a code P1351, which is the IDM circuit. When I put everything together originally, I assumed that all the later systems used the black CCD module, Motorcraft DY-533. Adam Maurer asked that I check this to be sure. When I went to the Motorcraft website, I found that all 460 remote modules are listed as a DY-1075, gray push start.
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My brake lights don't work. Turn signals, tail lights, hazard flashers work, but if I hit the brake, nothing happens. What could possibly be the problem? Could there be a wiring issue?
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i have an 85 f150. the brake lights are not working. i checked the bulbs, both filiments are working. i have running lights, turn signals, and hazards, just no brake lights. i am confused as to why i have everything else except brake lights. need to figure out what to do next to figure this out.
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I swapped a 4.9l into a 1997 F-350 that had a 5.8L originally, my issue is the fuel injectors are not working. I did my homework and got the harness that was with the engine out of a 1995 F-150 and also got the correct PCM to go along with my E4OD tranny that is in the F-350. It has spark and 60 plus PSI fuel pressure in the rail and will run with starting fluid shot in the throttle body. Both vehicles came with OBD I so should be compatible there. I do not have 12v to the injectors and obviously the NOID light shows no pulse either. Could be a ground but not sure where to look or what else could cause this.
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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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My radio, all gauges and windows aren't working. Fuse 17 did not seem blown but I changed it anyway and still no luck.
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I have a new to me 2008 F250 XLT. Neither side on the power mirrors is working. The manual shows fuse number twelve on the passenger side fuse block is the one that controls this circuit. The fuse is good (continuity wise). What I need to know is what color is the wire that feeds power to the switch block on the driver's side door panel. Pulled it out of the door panel and wiring was intact and corrosion free. I need to find out if there is power there or is it an issue between the fuse block and the switch.
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I have an early 99 F250. The a/c compressor stopped working. Have checked pressures, switches, freon etc. Found the switch in the dash is not getting power to send to the compressor. Where the feed for this switch is? I have checked all fuses, all good. The manual does not show a relay as being an a/c relay, so I am stumped without taking it somewhere now but I would like to avoid that.
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I'm about to dropkick my oil gauge but need to make sure that it is the problem. It WAS working but recently stopped. Here's what I have:
Dolphin electric oil gauge as part of their 6 gauge kit...fairly new oil sending unit (it's been on a year or so but the truck is not road worthy yet)....312 V8 and all of this is in a '53 F100.
I have verified, by hooking up a direct oil pressure gauge, that there is oil pressure. I have checked my wiring (it is all new from about a year ago) and it is all hooked up. My question is with the oil gauge removed, how can I hook up power to it and see if it works?
I could just go replace the sending unit but being that it is new I'm not going to throw parts at it just yet.
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I can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.
Here's what I've checked.
1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.
Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:
- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.
With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.
Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?
Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
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