I have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
View 2 RepliesFor about 3 months, my wife's 2003 explorer has had a bad door sensor (I'm guessing). The car claims a door is ajar and the alarm would go off randomly if it's locked. Yesterday the battery died because apparently the alarm had been going off for so long while she was at work. After having a stranger jump it, she has had major problems:
-She claimed the headlights didn't work in any setting except in the on position with high beams on, but now they seem to work.
-The instrument panel is totally out including all gauges and all lights
-the power windows don't work
-the radio won't turn on or show any display
-the interior lights won't turn on
All of the fuses are fine and my mechanic checked them as well. He did say that a few key fuses aren't getting any power to them on either side. But the battery is charging and drawing just fine. The car doesn't seem to have any other issues and all of the flashers work just fine.
What the problem could be? I have wondered if one of the relays is busted.
I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
Looking for a source for a wiring diagram for the 2003/4 f350 instrument cluster, specifically the wiring/connectors to the gauges? A link to a PDF file would be nice. I would like to try and disconnect the PCM control to the transmission temperature and engine temperature and drive the gauges from my own sensors to bypass the non-linear behavior that ford decided was in our best interest. I am NOT interested in installing any more gauges, just want to control the ones already present with my own signals. It is possible that these gauges are all addressable devices on a common bus, instead of individual controls.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 7.3. I started out with my batteries dying after a few days of sitting. I found the interior lights were coming on dimly, and the relay buzzing. great, got it. I pulled the fuse and ordered the dimmer/light switch. I came back next week and the batteries are dead again. Charged them, drove the truck, and then the radio starts coming on without the key on. Pulled the radio.
Next day the truck starts fine, but now the seatbelt noid is going off all the time and the tranny overdrive is blinking "off" but still shifts fine, and goes into overdrive. The speedometer also works erratically... I read a post about the marker lights leaking, I looked and that's a definite possibility. My question is are all these related back to the GEM or BCM? or more problems?
I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 mins after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
The instrument cluster in my 2005 Mountaineer has been randomly "failing" for about 2 months. By "failing", I mean the gauges will go to zero and bounce, the dash lights will go on and off, and the radio will go out. The car will continue driving normally. Headlights stay on, windows work, cruise works, interior lights work. This random event lasts about 4 seconds. It may do it again within minutes, or not again for the day. Sometimes, when I open the car door to get in (keys not in ignition), I will notice the gauges are bouncing at the zero mark. I took it to the shop, but of course it didn't do it there. They checked the alternator and battery. Battery is old, but checked out. A few weeks later, complete Alternator failure. Replaced the battery and alternator and I hoped that would solve the dash issue, but it did not. I've had it to the dealership, and to an independent, and their not sure what's up with it. The code readers give no insight.
View 8 RepliesNeed to know if the little icons on your interior 'dome' lights illuminate red when your instrument cluster lights are on? (Just like the power window and dash vent icons..) Audis do, but I've never seen a W8 Passat at night to be able to tell.
Looking for a pic of your interior roof lighting? (Not the center console one near the sunroof control...that of course lights up and shows icons.) I'm looking for the ones towards the rear of the car.
I have a 2000 E150 (Glavel Conversion) van and the interior lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened, although they used to. They also no longer turn on from the headlight dimmer switch. They will turn on individually if the manual switch at each light is pressed while the engine is running, so the bulbs and wiring appear to be working. I replaced the headlight switch with no noticeable effect. Is there a timing circuit that switches these on for a short period of time to allow illuminated entry that could have failed? If so, where would I find the module and how would I test? Relays and fuses look good.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F-150 lariat with a bit of a problem. My running lights (not sure if correct term, I'm talking about the tail lights' illumination that stays on while you drive at night) are not working. My headlights and parking lights do work, and my brake lights and turning signals also work. I have put in a brand new brake light switch and checked every fuse and relay, but no luck.
View 6 Replies85 ford ranger 2.3 efi .. My brake lights still aren't coming on. According to the Haynes manual, the wire that runs from the stop light fuse goes from there to the hazard flasher and then to the brake light switch. Since I have checked everything else, is it possible that the hazards are causing a break in the connection?
View 4 RepliesThe front running lights come on immediately, but the tail and side running lights take their time coming on (usually 10 to 20 seconds later. 95 Ford E-350. Is their a relay that could cause this issue?
View 1 RepliesI just picked up an '03 Golf and decided to put in the euro switch I had from my old Jetta. When I turn the headlights on (either parking or full) the instrument cluster blue back lighting and the red interior LEDs work only sometimes. When they work, they all work, but probably about 9 out of 10 times, they just won't come on at all, so I have to sit there turning the switch on and off repeatedly until they do come on. What could be causing this? It's definitely not a fuse since they do come on eventually, so my first thought was maybe a relay, but which one? What else could be going on?
View 5 Replies03 F250 Instrument panel does not work. Have checked all fuses with a meter. Have already fixed broken wires from the OD button on shifter handle. and also the alternator is not charging. I need wiring diagram that shows the wires coming out the back of the fuse box so I can see if the fuse holder is burned out......
View 8 RepliesWhat I am trying to do it put in 2 led spot light for added backing up light. What i want to do is have them turn on when put into reverse but also have a switch i can use to turn them on when not in reverse. Just need to know what relay I need and if it even can be done.
I was also thinking of just taping into the wiring harness and adding a wire that goes to the spot lights and another wire that goes to a switch that I could turn on and supply power to the light when not in reverse (I know it will light the revers light also) but is it ok to do that?
99 F-150 V-6, 125,000 miles: I repaired the odometer connection on the cluster mother board! It now works great but now have no running (parking) lights and no backlights for the instrument cluster. I think (!) they were working before I pulled the cluster to fix the odometer--not sure. Fuzes are all good--I metered each with ohmmeter for continuity, and also have 12V to the right fuzes with headlite switch in Park and Head. I replaced the headlight switch with a new one but still the same problem. Have I messed up something in the cluster board or connections by soldering there? I don't know what role the cluster plays in feeding the running lites or the cluster backup lites. Stumped. What am I missing?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L V8 4X4 Supercab. I developed a problem with my interior lights where they will come on randomly while I was driving. After many hours spent searching for an answer online, I found this thread:
[URL] ....
What I picked up from that thread that was useful was that if I tapped next to the dimmer/light switch panel my lights would go off.
Since all of the interior lights go through the instrument cluster I figured I would start there but it proved to be fruitless.
The next step I took was to look at the wiring diagram for the interior lights and try to figure it out there. They proved useful in that I was able to figure out that it wasn't an issue with a relay or fuse and led to me looking for the Green/Orange circuit, which I discovered I don't have but pointed me towards the Black/Blue circuit.
I thought I might have a wire loose inside the light switch so I started to remove it and take it apart to hopefully find something. To remove the light switch place a flathead screwdriver under the panel and pop it loose.
From there you can get a finger underneath and pull it out completely. Next you'll want to remove the wires by pressing on the clips pictured below
There are three screws you need to remove to get to the circuit boards underneath...
Removing the actual light switch was tricky because there are two tabs pictured below and you have to finagle the switch out...
Once you have that removed you'll be able to see two clips at the very bottom of the switch enclosure. This step was very hard and I had to get support. The two clips at the bottom have to be pushed and you have to pull the circuit board at the same time. I chose to have my assistant push from the bottom while I pushed the pins out of the way.
Once you have the circuit board out you can remove the dimmer by pushing on these four tabs
Once you have this removed you will see a circuit board with some gel on it. My circuit board had an excessive amount that was causing the electric current to jump and by-pass the Dome Defeat. After removing some of the gel I reassembled and put back in. I did it earlier today and only time will tell if I truly did fix it but based off the amount of gel and my inability to find another cause I am hopeful that this was a fix. The dimmer appeared to work better immediately afterwards.
When I'm driving the interior lights will come on all by themselves. This also happens when I park, day or night. Actually had to get a jump when I left the truck for 5 days at the airport.
Quick fix...mild tap to either the dimmer/light switch panel or just to the right of the panel. Goes out for a while and then back.
Extended Fixes:
- Cleaned contacts on old dimmer and light switch...no good
- Replaced dimmer/light switch panel...no good
- Cleaned and sprayed WD-40 on all latches...nope
- Looking for "loose" wiring...nope
This is a 2005 Lariat w/autolamps etc. Problem existed before I met a deer at 60 MPH and had a nice new set of fenders and front grill installed. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but cannot resolve the problem. The door ajar light stays off, so this leads me to believe it is not a door switch.
Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
View 8 Replies