Have a 06 and the dome lights stay on all the time. I had to pull the bulbs out of all of them. They would come on during the night and run my battery dead. The lights just come on while driving down the road and won't go off either. I can hear a clicking in the dash while driving where they are coming on and off from a really or something. Sounds to me like it's coming from the instrument cluster.
View 5 RepliesI was replacing the dome light in my 06 Ford F350. I tested the light and it worked then while screwing it back in, the lights when out and then the radio. I suspect it may be a fuse, but have yet to find the culprit.
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
View 8 RepliesI have an 01 diesel excursion and last night I came home and when I turned the headlights off the park lights/running lights stayed on. When I turned the switch to park lights on, they got a little brighter? After an hour or so, the lights then went off.
View 14 RepliesTwo Issues....
1.My rear dome lights work when manually turned on. They do not come on when the door is opened. However, the front dome lights do.
2.The lights on my side mirrors turn blink when using the turn signal, and when hitting the lock/unlock/remote start buttons. They do not work when driving around with my head lights on.
My 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
View 2 RepliesI have a 1981 F100, lately when I've been driving at night I notice my headlights, dash lights, and charging light will flicker at the same time, and even sometimes my headlights will flash on and off by themselves.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1991 idi diesel f250. My dash lights have entirely gone out and i cannot seem to figure out why, i checked the fueses under the driver dash and under the hood for that matter and nothing is blown.
At the same time, the dome lights, door lights, cab lights, stereo, windows, ever the light in the ash trey etc, work perfectly fine. Could a wire have come loose behind the dash cluster and shorted out everything in the driver area?
I still get the high beam signal, check engine, engine, wait to start, and water in fuel light in the cluster. but no back lighting (when turning the key to the on position)...
My indicator lights are all out. The turn signals work correctly, as do the dash lights themselves, but all of the warning lights are out. The truck sat for three years and I have just gotten it back on the road.
View 7 RepliesI bought a set of driving lights to mount at the back of my F250 for extra light when backing up, and hooked them up to Upfitter #4, but they do not work. I mounted them on the hitch, grounded them both on the bed (where a support bracket attaches), ran the power wire up to the front of the truck, and connected it to the white blunt cut pass through wire by the master cylinder. Then inside the cab, I connected the other end of the white pass through wire to the orange/lt. blue wire for upfitter #4. I started the truck, flipped on the #4 switch, and nothing. What I did wrong?
View 5 RepliesI don't know if this goes here but I ha a ford f350 king ranch 2006 I got it 5 months ago the fog lights never did work. One of them was burnt out.
I replaced them both today and checked the fuse and they do not come on. I checked the fuse under the dash kick box. What else could be going on here hat I can look into?
I am trying to find out if Ford's cruise control has gotten crappy, or if mine has problems in my '06 F250. When I set the cruise, it goes about 3 MPH above what I set it at, then drops to about 3 MPH below, then it eventually stays where I set it. That is until I come to the top of an overpass or other small grade, then it is back to about 3 MPH over again as I reach the top and level out, then going back to where I set it.
The cruise control in my previous Ford trucks (83 & 91), as well as my 82 Mustang, 85 Lincoln, wife's 97 Toyota and the 2013 Chevy rental I just had, works fine. Where you set it is where it stays. Of course going up or down a steep grade, they all are going to lose or gain speed.
Anyway, I have taken the truck to the dealer twice for the cruise control. The first time is when I got the truck in '08. They replaced something else non-related, and said that would fix the cruise. It did work marginally, as the fluctuation was +-4 MPH before. I just took it in again before it goes off warranty, and they said the cruise is operating normally. So, there's my story. Is this normal, or is something wrong?
I am wanting to wire my 03 f250 cargo (3rd brake light area) lights to come on when i put my truck in reverse.
View 1 RepliesDad borrowed truck and wired 7 pin trailer harness. Lights worked on truck/trailer for use but upon return the turn signals didnt work. Hazards and running and brake lights did work. Replaced TS flasher and Haz flasher. Still no signals. Pulled steering wheel and replaced turn signal cam only, not whole switch. Now no brake lights, no rear hazards or turn signals. Losing my marbles trying to follow schematic and using test light and mulit meter. All bulbs and fuses are good. Running lights and head lights working as well.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F250 lariat 7.3 .... This vehicle has an aftermarket double din stereo pillar gauges for Pyro meter and transmission temp and has also had a snowplow attached but since re moved since I purchased it. It also has H ID headlights, which are run by the passenger side headlight connection.
The problem I'm having is that whenever I turn on the parking lights it is blowing the number eight fuse under the hood. Which is giving me no dash lights running lights parking lights or taillights. Initially the fuse would last for a few minutes and then burn out. I should also add that the trailer wiring harness doesn't work either and the driver side headlight will work sporadically.
I've got an 06 F-250 and out of nowhere the drivers side window does not operate. I don't hear the motor operating (or trying to operate.) So I opened the trim piece and removed and reinserted the plug for the two forward switches, no change.
Surprisingly we are expecting more rain in So Cal in the middle of April tonight and I'm wondering how to by pass the switch, to at least get the window in the up position to keep the weather and the natives out.
I just bought an 05 F250 XLT. I noticed tonight that the rear turn signals and brake lights don't work.
The front turn signals work fine, although they flash fast. I know that usually means a light on its way out. neither taillight flashes though, which puzzles me.
My second issue is that, of the 3 brake lights, only the high mounted light illuminates when I hit the brakes.
I have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
View 2 RepliesMy dome light does not work and door ajar light is always on. I cant even turn the light with the switch on the side. Just don't know where to start. Do you think it is a switch on one of the doors? I have tried spraying cleaner and WD40 in there but it has not worked. Its been this way since I bought the truck but it is starting to drive me crazy....
View 2 RepliesI just purchased a 2006 E-350 15 passenger van. ~85000 miles. As soon as any door (except the very back door) opens, the dome light comes on, as expected. However, when you close the door, the light doesn't go off. There are two ways I've found to make the light go off:
1. Reach a speed of 10mph
2. Wait several minutes (i haven't timed it yet, maybe 10 min?) without opening a door
I've read that the keyless entry remote can control this, but this van isn't equipped with keyless entry. There must be some factory setting that can be adjusted. Also, any thoughts on adding an aux jack to the stock AM/FM/CD stereo? Maybe I should bite the bullet and install an after-market deck?
I can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.
Here's what I've checked.
1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.
Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:
- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.
With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.
Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?
Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?