Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2005 F350 - No Accessory Power Without Truck Being Turned On
Oct 2, 2016
I just bought a used F-350 that was being used by a fire department. They did something to the wiring to where most of the electronics won't work unless the key is in the "ON" position. When I open the doors, the dome light doesn't come on, nor does it come on with the IC dimmer switch, when I turn the key either backwards or to the "ACC" position the radio won't work, the headlights DO work but I don't get the warning chime when I open the door with them on.
The flash-to-pass works, as do the hazards and the turn signals (which seems odd -- I don't recall having a car where the turn signals worked without the car being on). With they key on, everything works including the dome light and the door chime. Is there some simple thing they could have done that would make it work this way and is easily reversed?
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Truck is up in the back country and has quit. It has two factory gas tanks, I can't hear either of the fuel pumps will come on when you turn the switch on. The problem started as an intermittent fuel starvation issue. Truck would act like it ran out of gas then pick up and go again. Switched tanks back and forth but it got worse throughout the day and finally will not start at all. I have listened to both tanks when the ignition switch is turned on but can not hear the pump come on for either tank (switching the selected tank with the switch on the dash). We went through some bumpy terrain just before the problem started so I am thinking maybe a wire might have come loose or got broke somehow. I am asking for wiring schematic so I can check for voltage in the correct place going to the fuel pumps. Both tanks are full of gas so for now dropping either tank is not an option.
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2001 F-350 diesel. Out of nowhere, I start the truck and there's no turn signals. Fuse is blown so I replace it. It immediately blows. Tail lights work. No turn signal, brake lights, or hazards. I haven't hooked up a trailer or done anything abnormal recently. Only the #1 fuse (20Amp) is blown. Pulled bulbs and they work fine. Inspected wiring under and near lights. NOTHING! Any way to localize a short?
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2005 Super Duty 350. Getting ready to get my truck DOT-ed and I noticed the front amber side marker and parking lamps are not working (both in the headlight assembly). There is a fuse called "exterior lamps" that I believe these are on, the fuse is fine and all the rest of the exterior lamps on the truck work fine (all other markers, clearance lights and I.D. lamps on that same all inclusive circuit). Is there a special relay or something else I'm missing for these four front bulbs?
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I have a 02 f350 can not get power to a/c compressor have power at high pressure And low pressure can run a hot wire and ground to compressor and it works.
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I have a 2006 F350 Diesel. Had one of my employees go out to start the truck yesterday and when I went out I had no electrical power to most of the accessories (gauges, warning lights, power windows, radio, interior lights, turbo charger). It also seems to have no power - could barely make it go up the slight incline into my garage. I have checked all the fuses - they seem fine. Although put a tester on the interior fuse box and I don't have any power to the fuses that run these accessories.
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I bought a great 76' SuperCab with a 390 4 barrel Wednesday (the 30th) and while driving around the neighborhood this evening the truck just lost all power and came to a stop. No lights, no engine, nothing and I cruised to an easy stop (fortunately at the end of my own block). I thought I smelled a bit of electrical burn for a moment after I came to a stop but could not track it down before the smell disappeared.
Some early symptoms - on drive home from purchase, the turn signal light function was in and out. The starter was also turning slowly and sounded tired/weak. The ignition switch was a bit loose and previous owner said you had to make sure the key was not all the way to the right or accessories would not work.
Some early checks/fixes- replaced battery and battery cables and checked grounds. Starter began turning stronger and turn signal lights were back. Thought I had it going well.
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I have a 97 Ranger, v6 4.0L, 2wd, 5spd. It has been my daily driver since 1999. I was driving to work today and when I pulled into the parking spot, I turned the truck off, and I thought it was odd that the locks didn't pop up when I shut the truck off.
I then realized that I had completely lost all electrical power. Tried to turn the truck on and nothing. No click. No dome light, no horn, no nothing.
My battery reads 12.5 volts and the connections are all clean on the battery. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. What else should I check? This may be the first time this truck has ever stranded me before.
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2005 Honda Accord. I have been experiencing a loss of electricity to my dashboard - the radio cuts out, tach and speedometer needles drop, sometimes warning lights come on. I don't think I have experience a loss of power with this but when it happens, it lasts less than a second.
I can go days of driving without issue. Then, in one drive it may happen four or five times. I hate the idea of taking it into the dealer on an intermittent electrical issue. That could be a real bank drain.
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The truck has a 300 straight 6 and runs pretty good until you turn the headlights on or anything that uses current for that matter ie. Radio , Fan ect. But is worst with lights. Just got the truck last week and can't seem to figure this one out.
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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Having a chance to try an O2 Sensor Simulator on your truck? I am wondering if they actualy work or if I should just stay away from them. Are there any problems or improvements using a SIM?
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I have a 94 Fsuperduty with a flatbed and lift that folds up and stores under the end of the bed. Recently while on a job the lift wouldn't go up, so I checked the one fuse I know of in the system and it was burnt. Put a new one in and before the lift reached the top it burnt-out again. It had been working with no problems for months prior to then.
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I'm trying to find the wiring diagram for the power windows in a 96 f150. I've got a set of these that i need to fab a harnes for to install in my 82.
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I've got a problem with an '05 f-350 with the 6.0. Initially I had a code for the #1 glow plug so I replaced the plug and the code was still there. Next I tested the harness and the rest of the plugs on the same harness and everything checked out fine. This lead me to the Gpcm which I then replaced. The first thing I noticed was when removing the old Gpcm I got a spark when removing the mounting nuts.
When I installed the new Gpcm the truck started fine and no codes came up so I thought all was good till I went to start the truck the next day and the batteries were dead. I thought I possibly left something on so i started charging the batteries but noticed they seemed to have a draw on them. I put my hand on the new Gpcm and it was very warm with the key off so I have the batteries disconnected till I can figure this out.
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I have a 70 Ford f250 with a messed up wiring harness. Truck will run only in start position. which wires are wrong.
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When I plug my iPhone into the USB port sometimes a message pops up that says "The accessory uses too much power and will be turned off" Then a few seconds later my phone will stop charging, but then within a matter of seconds it will charge again and go on and off like this each time giving me the error message.
2012 C- Three
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I have a 1999 f350 crew cab. There is a gray box with some wiring running to it and when the door is open I here a little cracking and popping sounds. It is between the steering wheel Column and the ashtray under the dash. I can hold it and feel it clicking and popping, What that is called, or how to get it out to replace it?
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My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it full and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
We'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
2008 F350 V10 CC SB DRW 4x4
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I am beginning to think that I need a whole forum dedicated to my trucks wiring issues ... I finally got my reverse lights to work but my newest issue Is that while driving tonight i lost power to my parking lights, my instrument cluster lights, and my heat control lights... everything still works inside (gauges all act properly but they won't light up) and i still have turn signals and brake lights, and headlights. I really don't know where to start with this one. I don't have an owners manual so i can't figure out what fuses to check or what relays to look at. It is a 2007 f350 diesel....
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My steering wheel lights r out and need to know which wire runs power to those. also the led in my headlight switch is very dim.I checked the wiring and all the wires check out with high 11's and high 12 volts.i checked the volts at the led in the switch and it read 2.18 v.i have another light switch from the salvage yard and the same thing. which wire powers that light. also, the light only comes on when the key is in the on position or back for accessory. if i just turn the lights on it wont lite, only with key in ignition in those positions. truck is a 2000 f350 xlt dually.....
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