Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2005 - All 5 Doors Stopped Working When Trying To Lock Or Unlock With Remote Or Door Switch
Mar 1, 2015
I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
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I have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
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2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
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I am installing power windows and locks in a 1990 F350. The donor truck was a 90 F250.
I got everything switched and all is working except the passenger side door lock switch.
The drivers side lock switch will unlock and lock both doors.
The passenger side will unlock the passenger and drivers side door but will not lock them.
I replaced the passenger side switch with a new one. Upon further checking, I found out that it was a window switch. It still unlocked the door but would not lock it.
Is there a difference between window power switches and door lock switches?
I can ground a pink w/ orange wire on the passenger side switch to the door frame and the switch will work. I have ohmed checked pretty much everything.
Could the drivers side power lock switch be bad. I have looked over a schematic and it looks like the circuit may pass threw the drivers switch to ground.
As I asked before is there a difference between a window and lock switch?
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So all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.
My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.
After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.
After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.
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Repaired my locks on my F350. Had the motor reversed. Before I figured that out I thought I needed to change the wires in the plug. Changed them and it didn't work, put them back and now the switch on that door does not work for the lock; however, all other switches work. What do I need to fix?
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My Key Fob buttons stopped working, I can't remote lock/unlock the doors or truck anymore with the key. It will still open the doors and start the car however. My thought is the battery is dead. 2 Questions.
First, how do I change the battery?
Second, does the key have to be reprogrammed? If so, can I do it, or is that a dealer thing?
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All the sudden i cant lock or unlock my doors with my fob.
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My landlord's daughter is having some electrical problems with her car, and we're trying to troubleshoot it ourselves. It's a 2006 chevy cobalt with 66,000 miles on it. Here are the issues: 1) The radio's display does not work (you can't see the time or the station). The radio's volume, on/off switch, AM/FM control, and tuner don't work. So, basically, it's stuck on one AM station and she can't do anything about it. 2) Her power locks occasionally lock / unlock themselves when the vehicle is running. 3) This is the most important safety issue right now - there's no power to the pump for her windshield washing fluid. What could it be? Fuses? Wiring? Something else?
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
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I have a 2008 expedition. Just the other day this problem arose. When hitting unlock on the drivers door switch no function happens. If I hit unlock on the passenger door switch doors on lock as they should. The drivers door will unlock using the keypad on the door. Also it will not unlock from the key Fob but I will hear the relays clicking as if it should. I checked the fuse it's good. I searched online I found some videos showing the wires in the driver side rocker and kick panel and that's a place where alarm companies tap into the factory wires.
Sure enough a few connections or poor so I redid them. However the problem remains. I don't know if this is something as simple as just the switch is bad, or is it something else like a relay to unlock. How to verify the switch is functioning with a multimeter? ... I just learned from Ford that the passenger side switch is identical to the driver side. So my next diagnosing and install the passenger side switch that I know it's functioning in the driver side and see if the problem goes away. If the problem goes away obviously the switch is no good. If the problem remains it's something in the wiring up to the switch. I'll report back and let you know because if it's the wiring
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I'm having a problem with my interior dome light and my door chime bell not working in my '01 F-250. I found that the bulb was blown,so I replaced it thinking it might fix the door chime bell also, thinking they were wired together from the factory.
The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.
What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.
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I traded my 2005 prius a year and a half ago for an '08 which apparently was a rental car for 40K miles before me. It came with only one key(not a SKS)which recently quit unlocking the doors and hatch remotely. I looked under the steering column and there is only a reset button for the tire sensor guage, and a couple blanks, presumably one would be for the remote/smart key reset.
I am currently using the enclosed key to manually unlock the doors. The remote works as usual when I place it in the slot to start the car. I live an hour plus from the closest dealers, and would love to address this issue without having to go there. I checked the FOB battery and even replaced it, although the voltage was practically identical between the existing battery and a new one. The little red light is operational when i press lock/unlock. The car stays outside - i don't have a garage, and remains unlocked between trips. Recently it sat for several days in the last large snowstorm. When I finally drove it up the 1/3 mile driveway, it would not lock when i was ready to leave it up on the 'hard road'. I've checked out a few related threads, but haven't hit on this issue yet. Perhaps the 12V battery is weak?
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My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
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My daughter picked up an 08 Base, option package #1 yesterday. It has 166K miles and checked out okay by me (coolant moving by inverter pump, no signs of water in spare tire well...etc.). The car only had 1 key fob (non-SKS) wit no spare key or fob. The key is uncut but the remote starts and runs the car. The remote will not lock or unlock the doors.
The first thing I did was replace the CR2032 battery with no change. It still operated the car but not the locks. I noticed that the little red light wasn't coming on when pushing the buttons and found the red panic button was stuck. Took care of that and thought all was good until I tried to lock and unlock the doors again. Nope! Light comes on, works in slot to start the car, but not the locks.
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I happened to read the following passage on page 37 of the owners manual discussing usage of the wireless remote control:
To Unlock: Push the unlock switch once to unlock the driver's door alone. Pushing the switch twice within 3 seconds unlocks all the doors simultaneously ... This double switch operation to unlock all the side doors and back door can be changed to a single switch operation. For details, contact your Toyota dealer.Click to expand...
(Note that this is different than the "smart unlocking" operations discussed on page 32.)
I'm interested in having all the doors unlock with just a single press of the remote unlock button. How to achieve this setting?
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My first question is, if it's possible to switch the beep-sound on, when locking or unlocking my doors by the remote. I think in the US its common to hear a sound when locking. Here in Austria it's forbidden (noice level), but I want to have that sound. Is it possible to engage it? Or is there something missing in my 2002 Camry?
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Strange problem. 2006 4 door Camry. Only the drivers door unlocks when using remote or the unlock button on the door panel. The three other door have to unlocked manually. All 4 doors lock with the remote or the button on the drivers door normally. Not sure if this is a door switch problem or a remote problems or how to further isolate this?
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'13 Accord Sport4k miles
These frigid WI temps are horrible. I did end up washing my car last weekend because it was full of salt. This morning I pressed the lock on my remote 2 times, nothing happened. Normally the horn sounds off once and the lights flash. I seen the lights flash, but there was no sound coming from the horn..........frozen locks? I came home after work and tried it again. Works fine now.
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