Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2004 - High Mount Stoplight On?
Apr 14, 2013
My Ranger, an '04 Edge without cargo lights. The high mount stoplight is faintly lit with the parking/headlights on. I had changed out the incandescent bulb for a LED, and went out to see how everything looked after dark. Well, the high mount had a slight glow to it, not really on, just a faint glow. This was never noticed with the regular bulb. I suspect I may have some stray voltage coming from somewhere, just enough to make the LED glow, but not enough for the normal bulb. When I switched off all the lights, it went out as well.
I tried to find a wiring diagram on line, like I've suggested to others in the past, but no luck from Autozone, or the EBSCO host I've used before. In fact the EBSCO will no longer accept "tech" as a user name or password.
So, where the problem may lie? I hate it when I can't figure out something like this!!!
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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Looking for a source for a wiring diagram for the 2003/4 f350 instrument cluster, specifically the wiring/connectors to the gauges? A link to a PDF file would be nice. I would like to try and disconnect the PCM control to the transmission temperature and engine temperature and drive the gauges from my own sensors to bypass the non-linear behavior that ford decided was in our best interest. I am NOT interested in installing any more gauges, just want to control the ones already present with my own signals. It is possible that these gauges are all addressable devices on a common bus, instead of individual controls.
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Im installing a set of 04 lariat seats into a 00 truck. I need to know how to hook up the heat. The power part is no problem. What I thought was right which was a separate constant 12v and a switched 12v for the module and ground apparently isnt right. If somebody could ohm out their harness on a 01 truck that would be great. As I have it right now the light on the switch comes on but almost instantly turns off.
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To make your fog lamps stay on when you go from low beam to high beam ,what do you have to do. I know there is a wire you cut and go to ground under your dash.
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I have a 99 F250 super duty 4x. It's all stock except for some speakers I replaced when I got it. The others were blown from my uncle. I don't have any amp or anything like that and the truck has ran fine for 3 years so I don't think the alternator has failed because of that. I'm thinking just age and 138k miles.
I was wondering what generation of alternator might be on there and how to tell the difference between the generations.
I have 12.5V with the truck off, about 14V with it on idle. As soon as I get it around 3000 RPM the battery light comes on and the voltage goes to 12.5V. Where can I get a rebuild kit for the alternator. I don't see anything at the major parts shops (napa, oreilly, autozone). Could this be the voltage regulator(that I did see at the stores)? I think its mounted to the back of the alternator. Is there any way to test the alternator further?
I'm a little confused as why it would be only above 3000 rpm. Are there two separate circuits for it? Like a low rpm one and then a different one above 3000 rpm?
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I have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
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So I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
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2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla CE manual transmission with 431,000 (not a typo) miles on it. About 7 weeks ago I noticed that when I turn on my high-beams after driving for awhile, the car dies for a few seconds. All lights go out, radio stops, engine stops and then it starts up again as if nothing happened. It will just do it once in about a half-hour time frame. I can switch the high-beams on and off repeatedly afterwards and it doesn't do it again. I have to drive for about a half-hour before it will do it again. I usually hear a slight pop sound when it does it.
A month later I noticed that if I parked it after driving for awhile, like at a gas pump, and get back in it, it acts as if the battery is dead for a few seconds. If I step on the clutch or open and close the driver door, the car comes back on. It appears that the battery was disconnected. The CD pops out of the player and all the radio station settings are gone. One morning last week I got in, and it had happened during the night. The CD was out, station settings gone, and the clock was 6.5 hours off.
I have had the car to a Toyota repair center 3 times. They have checked fuses, battery, battery cables, grounds, alternator, tensioner, looked for rodent nests, squirrels and I don't know what-all, etc. They can't find what is wrong. I am scared to drive it, but I depend on it. I commute 200 miles/day. I won't leave anything important in the car because I am afraid it will catch fire. I am scared I am going to have a wreck, too, with no lights and no power steering suddenly.
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It ford related but I just bought a used car that has hid low beams and when you turn on high beams there is no light at all. The blue light on dash comes on and head lights go off. I just got this car 2 days ago and haven't really looked into it.
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I have a 04 explorer I have been trouble shooting and the master switch works all but the passenger window wont work it at all but all the others work fine, its not the switches replaced both, the passenger window switch will roll the window down but not back up. I checked for power there is power to the switch in the passenger side, the ground is good. I can pull the plug off the motor and hook a jumper ground up and the switch will make it go back up. I have been working in body shops for 40 years and now this is the first one to stump me
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My 2004 expedition wont go into any gear the shifter will not move I changed the stop light brake switch and a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown and also the check engine light is on now too this was after I parked it I also changed a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown out but it still don't work the only way I can get it into gear is to push the little button under steering wheel...
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
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Let me start by saying electrical is something I really have no knowledge of....(never used any kind of an elec meter and don't have one) simple, Pos-grd and fuse, NP. I really don't want to fry something in these expensive new seats w/my normal trial and mostly ERROR!
The 08 (drivers) seat has 4 wires in the input clip.
GRN-RED (heavy gauge)
BLK-PURP (heavy gauge
BLU-RED
BLK-WHT
and my 01 whip out of the floor has a 3 wire setup.
GRN (heavy gauge)
BLK (heavy gauge)
BRN-BLU
I can wire PS side seat from fuse box and ground it NP. It only has a 2 wire set-up in the new seat.
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I am curious if it is possible to make a stand alone controller for the electric shift transfer case in a 2000 F-350?
The reason I ask is, this is swapped into a 4x4 conversion in a van and I would like the transfer case to work like the factory, but I don't want to swap over the whole GEM module. I have the high to low and low to high shift relays and wiring, the selector switch from the dash.
I know that powering up the relays will shift the transfer case, but the GEM module tells when the relays need to shut off, and that is where I am not sure what to do. I am assuming that the other plug on the shift motor (6 pin plug) is the sensor that tells the GEM module where the shift is at.
What needs to be done (with a bank of relays).....
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