Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2004 F350 - How To Make Dome Light Not Have A Delay To Shut Off
Oct 21, 2015
My Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually. The installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. Seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut, when i arm it.
The 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but there's a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
Can I change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? I want there to be NO delay, if possible. If not, I may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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Ok so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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I was replacing the dome light in my 06 Ford F350. I tested the light and it worked then while screwing it back in, the lights when out and then the radio. I suspect it may be a fuse, but have yet to find the culprit.
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When the 4x4 switch is moved to 4x4 high, what is the sequence of operation?
I note the 4x4 light on the dash has a small delay. Does the switch engage the transfer case and draw a vacuum to the hubs or does the transfer case engage first and then close a relay to light on the dash and engage the hubs? I have hubs that are not working, but no detectable vacuum leak, a dash signal lit for the 4x4, but a wheel still turning freely. My vacuum hoses are all soft and pliable.
I'm trying to figure out what my dash signal is telling me, if anything, before proceeding. Fuse for transfer case is good.
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My dome light does not work and door ajar light is always on. I cant even turn the light with the switch on the side. Just don't know where to start. Do you think it is a switch on one of the doors? I have tried spraying cleaner and WD40 in there but it has not worked. Its been this way since I bought the truck but it is starting to drive me crazy....
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I just purchased a 2006 E-350 15 passenger van. ~85000 miles. As soon as any door (except the very back door) opens, the dome light comes on, as expected. However, when you close the door, the light doesn't go off. There are two ways I've found to make the light go off:
1. Reach a speed of 10mph
2. Wait several minutes (i haven't timed it yet, maybe 10 min?) without opening a door
I've read that the keyless entry remote can control this, but this van isn't equipped with keyless entry. There must be some factory setting that can be adjusted. Also, any thoughts on adding an aux jack to the stock AM/FM/CD stereo? Maybe I should bite the bullet and install an after-market deck?
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I can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.
Here's what I've checked.
1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.
Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:
- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.
With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.
Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?
Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?
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On a 2008 E250, Where is the dome light wire and what color is it? To use with an omega security system.
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I'm having a problem with my interior dome light and my door chime bell not working in my '01 F-250. I found that the bulb was blown,so I replaced it thinking it might fix the door chime bell also, thinking they were wired together from the factory.
The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.
What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.
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Two Issues....
1.My rear dome lights work when manually turned on. They do not come on when the door is opened. However, the front dome lights do.
2.The lights on my side mirrors turn blink when using the turn signal, and when hitting the lock/unlock/remote start buttons. They do not work when driving around with my head lights on.
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I am having issues with my auxiliary relay on my truck. It will work intermittently. It started with me just needing to give the relay a light tap for it to work, and is now progressed to needing me to push really hard on the relay for it to turn on, but then as soon as I let go it shuts off again. I have replaced the relay with a new one and it's doing the same thing, and have even tried some di-electric silicone on the terminals with no success.
I was thinking of pulling out the entire fuse/relay panel and see if the contacts have pushed out, but then I read a thread regarding the panels and issues involving the removal the terminals and breaking the panel. 2004 F350 CCSB 6.0L...
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So heres the deal 1989 civic dx hatchback 106k on the odometer automatic 1.5l d15b2 engine . It's been having delayed starts taking 3 to 6 cranks before firing up then running fine, suddenly it dawned on me maybe it was the distributor , so I swapped it with a spare I had because sure enough the old one had red death red dust in the cap. Cleaned the contacts set the timing reassembled, some wires broke on the back of the wiring harness to the distro. Rewired them, the car kept getting worse I jumped it and took it to my friend a vw mechanic it drove 49 miles there fine after the jump, new plugs new wires new fuel filter we did the wire job set the timing checked the timing belt got the battery tested and the alternators new and did a oil change also did a coolant flush a few weeks ago.
It started right up drove it back to Chicago , in the morning I was getting off the highway it stopped running no noises I pulled over 8 cranks later it started parked it 3 blocks away, went to test drive it when I stopped at a light it shut off cramming it and hitting the gas pedal got it to start drove it a block down it shut off at a stop sign and I parked it. What it is I'm throwing code 8 which is a top dead sensor which I think is in the distro which I replaced a month ago. Fuel pump sounds like its priming but you have to gas it and crank it to start it which is odd for a automatic , it is girk injected is this tds sensor going to do that by itself? Or could it be a ignition module? ( what I read online) starter? Main relay , fuel pump switch?
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Have a 06 and the dome lights stay on all the time. I had to pull the bulbs out of all of them. They would come on during the night and run my battery dead. The lights just come on while driving down the road and won't go off either. I can hear a clicking in the dash while driving where they are coming on and off from a really or something. Sounds to me like it's coming from the instrument cluster.
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I bought a 84 ranger 2.0 that ran when parked sat for six months. Cranks all day long but only sparks when you shut the key off. Replaced the ignition switch (by key) ( someone told me there is another ignition switch under the dash?? is this true?) Tested the icm and it passed all wires seem to be fine. I am just wondering if something in the dizzy could cause this or possibly the starter solenoid?
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I have a 06 f350. Out of the blue my wipers will not shut off without pulling the 30 amp fuse in engine compartment . Even with ignition off.
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While driving along my Expedition will completely shut down, ignition, all accessories, everything, for a few seconds then come back alive. It happens generally up hills or around right turns.
It is like the main ground strap is loose and losing contact momentarily. I don't know where to look for this. Engine was replaced 1500 miles ago. Battery and all visible connections seem ok.
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I have two 2004 F350s. In both of them, the dome light stays on for roughly 10 seconds after I shut the door, and also comes on when I shut off the engine. I HATE this feature! Is there any way to disable this? All I want is the light to come on when I open the door and go off when I shut it. Nothing else.
I read something about some computer setting on this for police vehicles, but I'm not sure if or how that applies to my 2004.
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Yesterday I ran my batteries down and had to have my 2003 F350 jump started. The truck started find, and the battery is retaining its charge, but after the jump i lost my power windows, instrument panel (speedometer, gauges, odometer), dome lights, radio, and power mirrors. I have checked all the blade fuses and they are all fine. I have noticed in the past that occasionally it takes a few seconds for these things to come on line after I start up, but this was very rare and the functions always came on line shortly. What the problem could be?
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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Why the parking brake light in my dash stays on, 2004 F150. Fluid in master cylinder is full, has no signs of leaks anywhere.
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I have a 2004 250 SD. Supercab. Took out the bench and replaced with captains or buckets, whatever you want to call them. Perfect fit. The new seats have their own seat belts built in to them. The old ones, were mounted to the floor and roof. Now the air bag light blinks for a fairly long time, then stays on! What? OK, So, what do I NOT know about this project? I did have to make the wires longer in order to reconnect the plugs. Not a problem, I am an electrician. Trouble shooting is ok, when you know where to start.
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