Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2004 F350 - Auxiliary Relay Work Intermittently
Aug 5, 2013
I am having issues with my auxiliary relay on my truck. It will work intermittently. It started with me just needing to give the relay a light tap for it to work, and is now progressed to needing me to push really hard on the relay for it to turn on, but then as soon as I let go it shuts off again. I have replaced the relay with a new one and it's doing the same thing, and have even tried some di-electric silicone on the terminals with no success.
I was thinking of pulling out the entire fuse/relay panel and see if the contacts have pushed out, but then I read a thread regarding the panels and issues involving the removal the terminals and breaking the panel. 2004 F350 CCSB 6.0L...
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Long story short, my truck's front turn signals and rear turn signals/tail lights won't work. I am thinking that the relay is burnt. Whenever I look in the manual I can't seem to find the location for this relay. Is is built into the flasher?
Also, I am just assuming because the rear turn signals and tail lights are the same bulb that fixing this should clear up both problems. Am I right in thinking that?
I have already checked all of the fuses. Also, the Hazards don't work either.
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I am beginning to think that I need a whole forum dedicated to my trucks wiring issues ... I finally got my reverse lights to work but my newest issue Is that while driving tonight i lost power to my parking lights, my instrument cluster lights, and my heat control lights... everything still works inside (gauges all act properly but they won't light up) and i still have turn signals and brake lights, and headlights. I really don't know where to start with this one. I don't have an owners manual so i can't figure out what fuses to check or what relays to look at. It is a 2007 f350 diesel....
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Repaired my locks on my F350. Had the motor reversed. Before I figured that out I thought I needed to change the wires in the plug. Changed them and it didn't work, put them back and now the switch on that door does not work for the lock; however, all other switches work. What do I need to fix?
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I have a 1990 F-350 7.3 lariat crew cab. The tail lights fail to work but all the turn signal and brake lights work. I changed the light switch located to the left of the steering wheel but that didn't solve the problem. all the fuses under the dash appear to be ok to. Is there another fuse for just the tail lights.
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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I have a 04 explorer I have been trouble shooting and the master switch works all but the passenger window wont work it at all but all the others work fine, its not the switches replaced both, the passenger window switch will roll the window down but not back up. I checked for power there is power to the switch in the passenger side, the ground is good. I can pull the plug off the motor and hook a jumper ground up and the switch will make it go back up. I have been working in body shops for 40 years and now this is the first one to stump me
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My Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually. The installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. Seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut, when i arm it.
The 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but there's a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
Can I change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? I want there to be NO delay, if possible. If not, I may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3. I started out with my batteries dying after a few days of sitting. I found the interior lights were coming on dimly, and the relay buzzing. great, got it. I pulled the fuse and ordered the dimmer/light switch. I came back next week and the batteries are dead again. Charged them, drove the truck, and then the radio starts coming on without the key on. Pulled the radio.
Next day the truck starts fine, but now the seatbelt noid is going off all the time and the tranny overdrive is blinking "off" but still shifts fine, and goes into overdrive. The speedometer also works erratically... I read a post about the marker lights leaking, I looked and that's a definite possibility. My question is are all these related back to the GEM or BCM? or more problems?
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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Where it is located in a 97 F150 XLT Automatic with the ESOF?
Transfer Case Shift Relay Module
If it goes bad, would it be possible to still select 4L just no 4H?
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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My vehicle would not turn over and we could tell it was fuel related. The fiel pump relay has burnt through the motherboard of the fusebox. It is my understanding that this cannot be fixedand another fusebox must be installed. I have been to many junkyards in my are looking for it to avoid the dealer prices..all of the expeditions that we have found locally have already had the fusebox pulled. Any other vehicles that this might be interchangable with? My friend has an 01 expedition..would this work?
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I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
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Exactly where the parking lamp trailer tow relay is located on a 2002 F-250 Super Duty 4X4 CC 7.3L?
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2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
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I don't know if this goes here but I ha a ford f350 king ranch 2006 I got it 5 months ago the fog lights never did work. One of them was burnt out.
I replaced them both today and checked the fuse and they do not come on. I checked the fuse under the dash kick box. What else could be going on here hat I can look into?
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Truck is up in the back country and has quit. It has two factory gas tanks, I can't hear either of the fuel pumps will come on when you turn the switch on. The problem started as an intermittent fuel starvation issue. Truck would act like it ran out of gas then pick up and go again. Switched tanks back and forth but it got worse throughout the day and finally will not start at all. I have listened to both tanks when the ignition switch is turned on but can not hear the pump come on for either tank (switching the selected tank with the switch on the dash). We went through some bumpy terrain just before the problem started so I am thinking maybe a wire might have come loose or got broke somehow. I am asking for wiring schematic so I can check for voltage in the correct place going to the fuel pumps. Both tanks are full of gas so for now dropping either tank is not an option.
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03 F250 Instrument panel does not work. Have checked all fuses with a meter. Have already fixed broken wires from the OD button on shifter handle. and also the alternator is not charging. I need wiring diagram that shows the wires coming out the back of the fuse box so I can see if the fuse holder is burned out......
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I recenty was having some problems with my 2003 6.0 liter. My FICM connection was not seated all of the way which casued my truck to just die without warning....... AFter I had fixed that, my stereo died. Just dead??? Nothing...EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS???
So, after I had messed with everything I could think of, I thought, OK new DVD/Stereo time.
I checked fuse #32 which was the fuse to my stereo. The fuse is fine...BUT...There's no friggen power to the fuse via my test light. Test light works on other fuse spots so I know i"m not getting power to the fuse #32.
Since I don't have any power to this fuse....WHAT NOW???? How to trouble shoot this problem?
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