Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2003 F550 - Overdrive Light / Functionality And Instrument Cluster No Longer Working
Oct 13, 2014
I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 mins after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
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I am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
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Looking for a source for a wiring diagram for the 2003/4 f350 instrument cluster, specifically the wiring/connectors to the gauges? A link to a PDF file would be nice. I would like to try and disconnect the PCM control to the transmission temperature and engine temperature and drive the gauges from my own sensors to bypass the non-linear behavior that ford decided was in our best interest. I am NOT interested in installing any more gauges, just want to control the ones already present with my own signals. It is possible that these gauges are all addressable devices on a common bus, instead of individual controls.
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I have a 2008 Ford F-150 xlt with stock instrument cluster. I need a new instrument cluster due to my interior lights coming on while driving. I would like to make it look better and not go stock. Id like to have digital shift screen and good looking LED's. What all are my options?
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For about 3 months, my wife's 2003 explorer has had a bad door sensor (I'm guessing). The car claims a door is ajar and the alarm would go off randomly if it's locked. Yesterday the battery died because apparently the alarm had been going off for so long while she was at work. After having a stranger jump it, she has had major problems:
-She claimed the headlights didn't work in any setting except in the on position with high beams on, but now they seem to work.
-The instrument panel is totally out including all gauges and all lights
-the power windows don't work
-the radio won't turn on or show any display
-the interior lights won't turn on
All of the fuses are fine and my mechanic checked them as well. He did say that a few key fuses aren't getting any power to them on either side. But the battery is charging and drawing just fine. The car doesn't seem to have any other issues and all of the flashers work just fine.
What the problem could be? I have wondered if one of the relays is busted.
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 minutes after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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The instrument cluster in my 2005 Mountaineer has been randomly "failing" for about 2 months. By "failing", I mean the gauges will go to zero and bounce, the dash lights will go on and off, and the radio will go out. The car will continue driving normally. Headlights stay on, windows work, cruise works, interior lights work. This random event lasts about 4 seconds. It may do it again within minutes, or not again for the day. Sometimes, when I open the car door to get in (keys not in ignition), I will notice the gauges are bouncing at the zero mark. I took it to the shop, but of course it didn't do it there. They checked the alternator and battery. Battery is old, but checked out. A few weeks later, complete Alternator failure. Replaced the battery and alternator and I hoped that would solve the dash issue, but it did not. I've had it to the dealership, and to an independent, and their not sure what's up with it. The code readers give no insight.
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03 F250 Instrument panel does not work. Have checked all fuses with a meter. Have already fixed broken wires from the OD button on shifter handle. and also the alternator is not charging. I need wiring diagram that shows the wires coming out the back of the fuse box so I can see if the fuse holder is burned out......
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Need a wire diagram. I have a connector in the cab that has red,blue,lt green,white wires. It's causing my brake lights not to work. I need a wire diagram that shows were they go. I can't find these wires in my Haynes manual.
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I pumped gas at the local Chevron after noticing I was running just below a quarter tank this morning and immediately after turning the truck back on the instrument panel was dead. All other electric components worked fine (windows, headlights, signals, radio, etc.) Yukon GMC 2003 110k miles...
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The speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, battery meter, temp gauge and idiot lights went out. The car works fine. Dash is just dead. I did a quick look at the fuses in the glove box but it doesn't have the little card to tell fuse locations. So, I can't narrow it down but I don't see any blown fuses.
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The brake light in my instrument cluster on my 1997 F150 won't come on. I have put in 2 new bulbs.
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Ok .. Airbag warning light is on..... And won't go off i have taken battery off try reset that way nothing. Also steering wheel lights are off...
Only thing working on instruments on steering wheel is the left side is the radio and phone and volume and mode right side of steering wheel not working but nothing is illuminated!!!!???? On wheel
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Overdrive fuse keeps blowing. Drive one and 2 shifts fine. 3 and overdrive don't work. Had transmission checked it is fine. Repair shop says it is electrical.
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I've been getting a random, periodic flicker of the light on the instrument cluster. It seems like it occurs when the rpm's are increasing to 2000. Does the light come on for over voltage as well as under voltage? When I check the voltage at the batteries at idle, I'm in the 14.5 v range. I cleaned/tightened all the wires to the battery and alternator and it is still occurring, will be doing the ground wires on sunday.
2003 4x4 7.3 no tunes
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I can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.
Here's what I've checked.
1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.
Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:
- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.
With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.
Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?
Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?
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I just bought a used 1999 F-150 Supercab (V6) less than a month ago. As used, of course, I received no warranty of any kind. Yesterday, I found I could no longer roll down the driver's side power window. Whenever I push the button, it makes a clicking sound in the fuse box. The problem is, the fuse for the power windows covers both driver and passenger sides, but the passenger side works fine.
I did notice that there is a black plug called a Relay that affects the Auto Down power window feature. Since the driver's side is the only window with Auto Down, I'm hoping maybe that relay just needs replaced, and everything will magically work again??? I'm NOT a car/truck nut - I don't even know how to change my own oil.
I recently had a power window motor on my 1995 Thunderbird replaced. I'm hoping I don't have to do that already, just a month in to my F-150. But on my T-Bird, there was no clicking in the fuse box when I tried to window.
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My hazard, reverse don't work. The over all instruments panel light doesn't light up (the small bulbs work). Gauges with needles work. I'm putting every thing back into the truck. I left the steering wheel resting on the floor while cleaning and also left the wiring in. Everything else came out because I had to clean out the smell of mice. After I installed the instrument panel I started the truck, there was no hazard lights. I checked all the fuses under the dash. I checked all the fuses under the hood.
I did have a bent brake plug blade to bend straight. I need to replace a bad key cylinder, you can turn it without a key. I believe there were three plugs I unplug to lower the steering wheel. Park brake, brake pedal and a plug under the steering wheel. Wipers, interior ceiling light work. I believe there's a switch on the column (?) that includes the wiper arm. Should it also operate the hazard lights ? The steering column is installed, I can drive it around. Outside cargo lights won't go off, even with the light switch pushed in. Everything worked before.
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I just bought an 05 F250 XLT. I noticed tonight that the rear turn signals and brake lights dont work.
the front turn signals work fine, although they flash fast. I know that usually means a light on its way out. neither taillight flashes though, which puzzles me.
my second issue is that, of the 3 brake lights, only the high mounted light illuminates when I hit the brakes.
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Just bought an 04 Super duty with the factory plug 7pin and 4 pin plug. Checked the fuses and finally tracked down the 2 relays under the hood but can't seem to find anything wrong. Everything on the trailer works except for the running lights. Is there another fuse or something I have missed? Trailer works fine on my buddies Duramax and worked fine on my old 97.
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