Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2003 F250 - Passenger Side Front Window Powers Up Only
Oct 20, 2014
I have a 2003 f250 ext cab LB 6.0l diesel with 260,500 miles. So last week I had rolled both front windows down and hit the road to work 45min trip and so I got a call and rolled them up to talk after the call was over I rolled them down. So when I got to work I rolled them up and at night I try to roll them both down to let out the heat and only my driver side went down so I hit the pass.side switch nothing I hit the driver side for the pass. And the light in the switch for the window on the pass side door went out.and didn't go down.
So now I tried up and you can hear the motor trying to go up but only if you use the pass.side switch the driver side does nothing up..... So I replaced both switches as I though rain and snow and dirt got into them and killed them nothing changed I checked for power to the motor and it has 12.2v on the up and when it switches wires to spin the motor to go down I only get 4-6v on both wires. So I checked the door jams for broken wires nothing and I can use my power prob to roll the window up and down so I think the motor is ok on the window..
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I've got an 06 F-250 and out of nowhere the drivers side window does not operate. I don't hear the motor operating (or trying to operate.) So I opened the trim piece and removed and reinserted the plug for the two forward switches, no change.
Surprisingly we are expecting more rain in So Cal in the middle of April tonight and I'm wondering how to by pass the switch, to at least get the window in the up position to keep the weather and the natives out.
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I have a 04 explorer I have been trouble shooting and the master switch works all but the passenger window wont work it at all but all the others work fine, its not the switches replaced both, the passenger window switch will roll the window down but not back up. I checked for power there is power to the switch in the passenger side, the ground is good. I can pull the plug off the motor and hook a jumper ground up and the switch will make it go back up. I have been working in body shops for 40 years and now this is the first one to stump me
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 PSD and the drivers side power window will not go up. How do I troubleshhot it. Is it the switch, motor, fuse? The other three windows work fine.
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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I just bought a used 1999 F-150 Supercab (V6) less than a month ago. As used, of course, I received no warranty of any kind. Yesterday, I found I could no longer roll down the driver's side power window. Whenever I push the button, it makes a clicking sound in the fuse box. The problem is, the fuse for the power windows covers both driver and passenger sides, but the passenger side works fine.
I did notice that there is a black plug called a Relay that affects the Auto Down power window feature. Since the driver's side is the only window with Auto Down, I'm hoping maybe that relay just needs replaced, and everything will magically work again??? I'm NOT a car/truck nut - I don't even know how to change my own oil.
I recently had a power window motor on my 1995 Thunderbird replaced. I'm hoping I don't have to do that already, just a month in to my F-150. But on my T-Bird, there was no clicking in the fuse box when I tried to window.
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I am installing power windows and locks in a 1990 F350. The donor truck was a 90 F250.
I got everything switched and all is working except the passenger side door lock switch.
The drivers side lock switch will unlock and lock both doors.
The passenger side will unlock the passenger and drivers side door but will not lock them.
I replaced the passenger side switch with a new one. Upon further checking, I found out that it was a window switch. It still unlocked the door but would not lock it.
Is there a difference between window power switches and door lock switches?
I can ground a pink w/ orange wire on the passenger side switch to the door frame and the switch will work. I have ohmed checked pretty much everything.
Could the drivers side power lock switch be bad. I have looked over a schematic and it looks like the circuit may pass threw the drivers switch to ground.
As I asked before is there a difference between a window and lock switch?
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My 2008 F250's passenger side mirror will not fold/unfold with the switch. Also the motor continues to run when the switch is moved to fold/unfold the mirrors.
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I installed LED tail lights a few months ago, now all of a sudden the passenger side does not light for brakes or turn signals. The lights came with resistors that I put in when installing and the adhesive wore out and they were dangling in the truck frame. The wires connecting the resistors to the light were damaged. I taped the exposed wires and secured them a with a heavier tape, but taping did not work. I also tried switching the resistor packs with the driver side to see if it was them that have an open winding, but they are still operable.
I narrowed it down to wiring between the trailer hook up and passenger light assembly in the electrical circuit. I plugged an LED light bar into the trailer connection and the same problem occurred (running lights come on, but no turn signal or brake light). Where could there be a short? Or is this circuit fused somewhere that the running lights come on but a separate fused circuit triggers the higher voltage for LEDs.
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1980 F-250, 351M. Battery tests OK - 500 cold cranking amps. New starter, new starter solenoid. When I turn the key to ignition, small click under the hood on driver's side. Turn to start, the starter solenoid clicks once, but no turnover. After that, all electrical is dead - no lights, no horn, no radio, no clicks. Turn the key to accessory, gauges work, but no radio, etc. Turn the key to ignition, nothing. Tried jumping from another car, and the cables melted.
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My work truck is an 03 F250 5.3L. My flashers recently stopped working. I turn them on, and they will work anywhere from 5 seconds to a few minutes, then either blink rapidly and shut off, stay solid for a few seconds and shut off, or just shut off. I push the switch off and on again, and the cycle repeats. All my other lights and turn signals work fine with no issues.
This wouldn't be a huge issue, but where I work I need the flashers a lot. The truck has a bar light and siren/pa system wired into it, but not to the lights or anywhere near that. I can't say exactly how it's wired because I didn't install it, but I followed the wires and they don't go under the steering wheel where I would assume the relay and wires for flashers would be.
What sounds like is wrong? I wouldn't think it would be the relay because then I would think that I would be having problems with more than just the flashers. So I'm not sure if there would just be a ground issue or if it's the actual switch that turns on the hazards. Also, there are no lights that are burnt out.
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My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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I have a 2003 F-250 6.0L 2WD and I recently noticed a rattling thumping noise under the front end on the passenger side. I noticed the rattle shortly after I got new tires, which are a hair bigger than the tires I had on it before. I thought it might be my new tires rubbing since they were bigger but then I noticed the rattle when I had my wheel straight and also when not moving at all. I've been driving it for a couple of weeks now with this rattle and I've been able to determine that it rattles most when I am going downhill and turning to the left putting more of the weight of the truck on the front right suspension components.
After reading several threads my first attempt to find the problem lead me to the discovery of a worn sway bar bushing. I thought this was for sure the problem and replaced both bushings and end links. But the rattle didn't go away. Then I thought maybe it was a bad wheel bearing so I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheels. Still no change. Lastly, I happened to find a loose ABS line in the front right wheel well that was no longer secured and was banging against plastic. I secured that and still no change. All the bushings seem to be in good shape so I am considering taking it to a mechanic since I don't want to just replace everything hoping that it solves the problem piece by piece.
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I am wanting to wire my 03 f250 cargo (3rd brake light area) lights to come on when i put my truck in reverse.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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1999 f250 passenger window went down but will not go up. Neither switch will make it go up. I was wonder if both switch could have went bad? Any way to test a switch?
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My son has an '03 Explorer. The passenger side window will not go down. We took the panel off the door and used a volt meter to check to see if voltage was coming from the switch to the motor. Both the up and down side of the motor pigtail was getting fire from both the driver side switch and the passenger side switch. We bought a used window assembly (cables, motor, etc) and tried the switches. The switch worked until the window was fully extended to the up/closed position, then would not go down...just like the one in the door. Took the motor off the window assembly (the original one still in the door) and tried the switch and it works fine...both up and down. There seems to be a limit switch or something that knows when something has over extended.
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03 F250. Passenger window is stuck up. When I have the door panel off, I can feel the motor trying to move up. Won't go down at all. When I connect test light to the plug, it lights up correctly for both up and down. Thought maybe it was the motor so I got a new one but it only tries to go one way. It's like the switch isn't sending the signal for the window to go down even though the plug appears to be getting the correct signal.
I took apart the driver's side switch and nothing looks crimped, bent, etc. From some reading, it sounds like possibly the regulator is bad, does that somehow send a signal back to the switch? Is there a relay or something that could be bad? I find it odd that test light seems to work but when connected to a motor, it doesn't.
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