My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
View 6 RepliesMy 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
My door will not lock..when you hit the remote, the door button or try to push it down..it goes down a little and there is resistance and then it comes right back up. If I use the key it will lock easily, but once you turn the key to get it out it comes right back up. I can hear the motor working, but it feels like there is something stopping it from going all the way down.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2004 Ford Ranger. When I use the remote to unlock my truck, there is a grinding electrical sound, and the driver side door does not unlock. The passenger side does, though. Also, when I try to use my key to unlock the door, the driver's side door will not unlock with the key. I can open the driver's side door from the inside by using the handle, but the electric lock button will not unlock the door. It seems like the piece that pops up when the truck is unlocked has a hard time raising to unlock the door. Neither my boyfriend nor I can figure out what the problem is. I find that when I take my truck in for any problem, people at the dealership try to take advantage of the fact that I'm female and don't know much about cars. Need to know what is going on before I take it in anywhere to get fixed.
View 1 RepliesI've got an 06 F-250 and out of nowhere the drivers side window does not operate. I don't hear the motor operating (or trying to operate.) So I opened the trim piece and removed and reinserted the plug for the two forward switches, no change.
Surprisingly we are expecting more rain in So Cal in the middle of April tonight and I'm wondering how to by pass the switch, to at least get the window in the up position to keep the weather and the natives out.
I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
View 3 Replies1980 F-250, 351M. Battery tests OK - 500 cold cranking amps. New starter, new starter solenoid. When I turn the key to ignition, small click under the hood on driver's side. Turn to start, the starter solenoid clicks once, but no turnover. After that, all electrical is dead - no lights, no horn, no radio, no clicks. Turn the key to accessory, gauges work, but no radio, etc. Turn the key to ignition, nothing. Tried jumping from another car, and the cables melted.
View 7 RepliesI am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
View 2 RepliesFor the past couple days my 02 passat drivers side door wont lock with out being manually locked, when my light are on and I get out of my car it does not chime and my lights wont come on when I open the door.
View 6 RepliesI just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1997 F-250 that as soon as you put it in gear to go forward, the doors lock as is the norm on these "new" vehicles. My complaint is that when you stop an get out, the drivers side unlocks, BUT the passenger side doesn't. THEN invariably I go around to get something out of the passenger side and its LOCKED. That's when my blood pressure goes into orbit. A trip to my dealer yielded no cigar. He stated that some models could be tricked into unlocking, but not this one.
View 4 RepliesWhen I turn off my Ex, the drivers door unlocks automatically, but the other doors remain locked. Is there a way to program it so that all doors unlock automatically?
View 3 RepliesLocked my keys in my car. A locksmith came and instead of using the tool to unlock using the unlock button, he just pulled the regular lever inside with the tool to open the door while it was locked. Since then I cannot open the driver's side door from the inside. It will open, lock and unlock fine from the outside. It is unlocked when I attempt to open it from the inside. I pull the lever and nothing happens. I have to unroll the window and open the door using the outside handle or crawl over to exit from the passenger side door.
View 4 RepliesThere is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
View 3 RepliesOne thing I'm not liking quite as well with my Passat as my previous car is that in my old car when I turned off the engine it would unlock all the doors. The Passat only unlocks the drivers door. I'd like to have the other doors unlocked as well for when I have the kids with me. Is there any way to set it to do this?
View 5 RepliesSo a few weeks ago more (more like end of Jan) I was sitting in the car listening to the radio and battery dies... didn't know it was dead until i tried to start her up... ever since then the key fob remote only unlocks the drivers door and the trunk???
View 1 RepliesPassenger side and trunk work just fine. Drivers side door no longer unlocks with the remote. Passenger side and trunk work just fine. Fresh batteries and all. I forgot how inconvenient it was not having a remote to unlock.
View 12 RepliesI have a '97 F250 diesel and the battery light keeps coming on and off. The volt meter shows a good charge. How do I fix this?
View 4 RepliesI have an 02 Ranger 4.0 4WD and I have been doing a lot of research to try and figure out why the battery light comes on and off. I was driving the other day down the highway and the battery light came on and voltage gauge dropped. Drive a little further and it goes off, go down hill light comes on, up hill it turns off. (The up and down hill part was probably just a coincidence!) ...
Next day I pulled the alternator and had it tested at O'Reillys and it passed no issues. Yesterday I was driving again the light comes on my way home from the store and stays on for about 3 miles til I got home. Turned my truck off, restarted it later, no light. Today I drove around for a while and about 45 minutes into my driving around the light comes back on and voltage gauge drops and after about a mile it turned off. I stopped by O'Reillys again to have them test the complete charging system and everything passed. On the way home, light comes on again!
So, question is, the battery light was not on when they tested, will that make a difference in the outcome of the tests? I'm guessing not??? Belt looks good, no bad connections that I have found, battery was good...what am I missing? Battery light is still on and voltage low when I start truck after 1.5 hours of being home. Also, I get no magnetism from the alternator when the battery light is on.
I have a Camry 2011 LE (US) and it is giving me this problem for last few weeks. The doors lock fine with the key fob and the lock button on the doors however only driver side door unlocks when i try to unlock it.
The car does not has any starting problem and it still does not work when the car is started and moving. I have even tried a friend's battery to double check if its a battery issue but it does not seems like its that problem since my car starts just fine.
I have been searching on the internet for the problem and read somewhere it could be a Relay problem and i was able to find two relays in the fuse box. But I just don't know if its legit to try replacing the Relay and if yes which relay control doors.
2002 f250 v10 4x4. Truck will loose all power...
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