Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2000 - No Keyless Entry - Won't Go Into Programming Mode?
Oct 18, 2011
Have already fixed the weak lock motors on my 2000 F250. Now I can't get the truck to go into programming mode. I know it has Keyless entry, as I located the relays and identified the wiring while trying to fix the weak locks before I found the fix here.
I've tried the key on off 8 times but the locks never cycle. I've tried it with the driver door open and closed, cycling the locks from unlocked to locked to unlocked before cycling the ignition switch. Tried cycling the ign switch 5 times, 8 times and 10 times.
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I have a 00 olds intrigue. Just bought a new keyfob and followed directions to program but after I insert the key the 3rd time and release the unlock switch, the 3 chirps never happen. I even tried pulling the bcm pgm fuse but didn't work. Pgm directions are, close dors, insert key turn to on, remove key, hold driver unlock button in unlock position while inserting and removing key 3x but don't turn ignition, leave in on 3rd time and let go of lock, then you should hear 3 chirps, after chirps press and hold keyfob lock & unlock together x 14 seconds then you will hear another chirp. I never get the first 3 chirps or anything after.
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But i have a 99 silverado 5.3l z71(new body style) bought a new key fob to program but my truck will not go into program mode. Ive tried the hold unlock then cycle ignition and the turn signal version but neither one worked....
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I was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
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I have a new keyfob for my wife's 2000 X, and I'm trying to program it. The procedure is simple, right? Get in the truck, put the key in the ignition, lock the doors, unlock the doors, then cycle it to the run position (back of off), 8 times -- staying in "run" the eighth time.
I've done this OVER and OVER after my wife said it wouldn't work for her. The problem is that when you hit run the 8th time, the locks should cycle, indicating that it is ready to program the remote. The problem is the locks never cycle.
I also tried the same procedure without the locking and unlocking step prior to turning the key. And I also tried it by locking and unlocking prior to inserting the key.
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I'm putting in a remote starter keyless entry in my 2000 f150 I have all the wires figured out except for the remote start part. Where the wires listed in the photo go? I do have the module required.....
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I am curious if it is possible to make a stand alone controller for the electric shift transfer case in a 2000 F-350?
The reason I ask is, this is swapped into a 4x4 conversion in a van and I would like the transfer case to work like the factory, but I don't want to swap over the whole GEM module. I have the high to low and low to high shift relays and wiring, the selector switch from the dash.
I know that powering up the relays will shift the transfer case, but the GEM module tells when the relays need to shut off, and that is where I am not sure what to do. I am assuming that the other plug on the shift motor (6 pin plug) is the sensor that tells the GEM module where the shift is at.
What needs to be done (with a bank of relays).....
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I am trying to add a keyless entry to the already equip, power door locks but am having problems figuring the wiring schematic
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I have a need for a 12-volt signal to indicate the engine is in start or run mode. I would like to pull this from the engine compartment but I'm not sure what would be the best or easiest way to do this. The 12-volt signal is not used to power anything so it will draw very little current. I have a 94 F150.
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I received a free keyless remote for the passat from a friend and would like to program this remote to my car. I tried the method that everyone is talking about online, which is to turn the ignition to the "on" position with one key (w/o starting the car). Then put another key on the driver side door and turn to unlock position and hold until 3 beeps. I've held the key for over a minute and still don't hear any beeps. What am I doing wrong?
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I have a 2000 Winnebago RV on a Ford F53 chassis. Recently, I turned the vehicle off and found that the speedometer was stuck at 40. After opening the dash in an attempt to investigate the instrument cluster, it dropped back to 0. However, upon moving the truck again, it jumps back to 40. Once I accelerate up to highway speeds, It begins to work properly above 40. Now it sounds just like every other broken cluster post I've seen, but here's where it becomes different:
When I stop somewhere, and its still at 40, I can flip the dash up and it immediately drops to 0 and stays normal until I move again. It then works until about 10, then shoots up to 40 again, and stays there until I hit 40, at which point it resumes working. Once I get below 40 again, it stays at 40 until I stop and flip the dash up.
I assume there must be a wire crossing that I am pulling apart by lifting the dash. However, there is a mess of wiring down there, and I don't have a clue how to find where it is crossing, assuming that's the problem.
Before the problem was discovered, I made three electrical changes, though I can't imagine why they would affect the speedo.
1. I rewired the trailer plug. I wasn't sure why, but I had no power coming to my running light wire in the towing harness. I couldn't figure out why that wire was dead, so I just tapped one of the tail lights and wired the trailer plug.
2. I replaced my backup camera. The old Sony began to flash, so I just ran the new camera wire under the frame and behind the dash. I wired the monitor to the existing cables that the old one was connected to.
3. The chassis battery somehow died while driving. It was slow to start in the morning when we left, and about seven hours later, I shut the vehicle down at a camping world and when I went to leave, nothing. Somehow the battery was down to 6 volts, which I have never seen before. Long story short, new battery and it started up and has been fine besides that speedometer thing.
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2000 E150 - I see a pair of airbags listed at a salvage yard with module. Do I need the module? Do the "switches" that set off the airbags reset?
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Does my truck have a keyless entry module? If so where is it?
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My brother just bought a 2006 Ford Explorer XLT 4x2 4.0 V6. Where to find the code for the keyless entry? I took a look under the dash "driver side" but didn't see anything....
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My steering wheel lights r out and need to know which wire runs power to those. also the led in my headlight switch is very dim.I checked the wiring and all the wires check out with high 11's and high 12 volts.i checked the volts at the led in the switch and it read 2.18 v.i have another light switch from the salvage yard and the same thing. which wire powers that light. also, the light only comes on when the key is in the on position or back for accessory. if i just turn the lights on it wont lite, only with key in ignition in those positions. truck is a 2000 f350 xlt dually.....
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
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I just bought a 2006 Texas Edition F150 with key less entry but the instructions and assigned codes did not come with it. How do I find what the code is to operate the system?
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I recently bought an 09 Ford F150 Fx4 and didn't get the door code from the owner. I looked and found what I think is the door lock control module above the fuse panel but the only 5 digit code doesn't unlock the door. What I can do the get the code?
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I have a 2003 Explorer with the Factory Keyless Entry on the driver's door. It recently quit working with either my code or the factory code. I have cleared my code, and the only response is that the keypad will light up, and I can lock all doors with the pad. It refuses to take a code to unlock. Other than the dealer route (and a possible new GEM)? The wireless remotes continue to work well.
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Where can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
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My 2011 F150 did not come with Keyless Entry so I purchased Fords alternative which is a number pad that sticks to the door above the handle and acts basically like a key fob.cI asked my dealer if I just purchased the new door handles with the keyless built in if they can just add the module to the board and connect it. Faster than I could finish the service Manager said no with out even discussing it. I'd really like to do this if it is somehow possible. My parts guys is going to try and get service to call Ford Tech but he didn't have a lot of faith that they would.
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