Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2000 - Airbags Deployed - Reset?
Jun 3, 2013
2000 E150 - I see a pair of airbags listed at a salvage yard with module. Do I need the module? Do the "switches" that set off the airbags reset?
View 3 Replies2000 E150 - I see a pair of airbags listed at a salvage yard with module. Do I need the module? Do the "switches" that set off the airbags reset?
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
View 14 RepliesFriend of mine (whom I referred to Lexus) just bought. 15' GS on Friday. Friday night on the way home from the dealer (1 1/2 hour) he hit a 220-250lb 6-point buck/deer on the back road sometime after midnight, not even 3-4 miles from home. He is wondering whether or not insurance will total car. From the looks of it i'm hoping so too and all airbags have been deployed except front right passenger side. I would hate to take a brand new leased vehicle that never even made it home after repair.
View 14 RepliesSo I'm trying to figure out how to properly remove deployed airbags from my 1995 Toyota Celica. I know people just cut them out and go from there. But I'm not the type to cut corners when it comes to repairing my car.I would really like to not have to take it to a shop if it's just possible for me to do so myself. Save time & money & I prefer to do my own work on my own car unless it's completely out of my legue. where I can find how to remove my 2 deployed airbags from my car the PROPER way..
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2006 Prius at an insurance salvage auction. I do not have the car yet for more exact details other than what I'm going to describe. The car was listed as a collision with rear damage, it doesn't have a mark on it other than a flat rear passenger tire. No front or side damages yet the driver and front passenger air bags deployed. I was wondering if the previous owner slid into a curb and if there is some sensor to trigger that. The auction listing said it doesn't start or move.
View 19 RepliesI am curious if it is possible to make a stand alone controller for the electric shift transfer case in a 2000 F-350?
The reason I ask is, this is swapped into a 4x4 conversion in a van and I would like the transfer case to work like the factory, but I don't want to swap over the whole GEM module. I have the high to low and low to high shift relays and wiring, the selector switch from the dash.
I know that powering up the relays will shift the transfer case, but the GEM module tells when the relays need to shut off, and that is where I am not sure what to do. I am assuming that the other plug on the shift motor (6 pin plug) is the sensor that tells the GEM module where the shift is at.
What needs to be done (with a bank of relays).....
I have been having electrical issues with my 2001 manual transmission Jetta. At times I turn the car off, remove the key and the radio stays on, trip mileage and clock will reset. I also had where I was at a stopped at a traffic light and the ABS, engine light, and another light (not sure which one, it was too fast) flashed on for half a second. What should be looked at first and possible changed?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Winnebago RV on a Ford F53 chassis. Recently, I turned the vehicle off and found that the speedometer was stuck at 40. After opening the dash in an attempt to investigate the instrument cluster, it dropped back to 0. However, upon moving the truck again, it jumps back to 40. Once I accelerate up to highway speeds, It begins to work properly above 40. Now it sounds just like every other broken cluster post I've seen, but here's where it becomes different:
When I stop somewhere, and its still at 40, I can flip the dash up and it immediately drops to 0 and stays normal until I move again. It then works until about 10, then shoots up to 40 again, and stays there until I hit 40, at which point it resumes working. Once I get below 40 again, it stays at 40 until I stop and flip the dash up.
I assume there must be a wire crossing that I am pulling apart by lifting the dash. However, there is a mess of wiring down there, and I don't have a clue how to find where it is crossing, assuming that's the problem.
Before the problem was discovered, I made three electrical changes, though I can't imagine why they would affect the speedo.
1. I rewired the trailer plug. I wasn't sure why, but I had no power coming to my running light wire in the towing harness. I couldn't figure out why that wire was dead, so I just tapped one of the tail lights and wired the trailer plug.
2. I replaced my backup camera. The old Sony began to flash, so I just ran the new camera wire under the frame and behind the dash. I wired the monitor to the existing cables that the old one was connected to.
3. The chassis battery somehow died while driving. It was slow to start in the morning when we left, and about seven hours later, I shut the vehicle down at a camping world and when I went to leave, nothing. Somehow the battery was down to 6 volts, which I have never seen before. Long story short, new battery and it started up and has been fine besides that speedometer thing.
My steering wheel lights r out and need to know which wire runs power to those. also the led in my headlight switch is very dim.I checked the wiring and all the wires check out with high 11's and high 12 volts.i checked the volts at the led in the switch and it read 2.18 v.i have another light switch from the salvage yard and the same thing. which wire powers that light. also, the light only comes on when the key is in the on position or back for accessory. if i just turn the lights on it wont lite, only with key in ignition in those positions. truck is a 2000 f350 xlt dually.....
View 14 RepliesHave already fixed the weak lock motors on my 2000 F250. Now I can't get the truck to go into programming mode. I know it has Keyless entry, as I located the relays and identified the wiring while trying to fix the weak locks before I found the fix here.
I've tried the key on off 8 times but the locks never cycle. I've tried it with the driver door open and closed, cycling the locks from unlocked to locked to unlocked before cycling the ignition switch. Tried cycling the ign switch 5 times, 8 times and 10 times.
I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
View 9 RepliesOver the weekend I was driving my 2000 F350 and the alternator died (found out later). The shop said they replaced the alternator but it wasn't charging. They later told me it was because the isolator failed. My 2nd battery WAS a yellow gel battery. Before the battery (in series) was an 50 amp circuit breaker...........that blew apart.........and the battery had a melted off side terminal. It looked like the 'sealed gel battery" had been 'leaking for a while" (as there was funky acid type white corrosion deposits in a few places. Any speculation what happened here?
View 4 Replies2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 E150 (Glavel Conversion) van and the interior lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened, although they used to. They also no longer turn on from the headlight dimmer switch. They will turn on individually if the manual switch at each light is pressed while the engine is running, so the bulbs and wiring appear to be working. I replaced the headlight switch with no noticeable effect. Is there a timing circuit that switches these on for a short period of time to allow illuminated entry that could have failed? If so, where would I find the module and how would I test? Relays and fuses look good.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F250 lariat 7.3 .... This vehicle has an aftermarket double din stereo pillar gauges for Pyro meter and transmission temp and has also had a snowplow attached but since re moved since I purchased it. It also has H ID headlights, which are run by the passenger side headlight connection.
The problem I'm having is that whenever I turn on the parking lights it is blowing the number eight fuse under the hood. Which is giving me no dash lights running lights parking lights or taillights. Initially the fuse would last for a few minutes and then burn out. I should also add that the trailer wiring harness doesn't work either and the driver side headlight will work sporadically.
I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
View 3 RepliesI am a beginner when it comes to anything involving wiring. I am looking to re-wire all of the wiring coming off of the instrument cluster gauges. Once I have completed all of the wiring on the gauges, I may feel confident to move onto something else. As of rite now, it appears as though my truck is still running on all of the original wiring, and over the past few weeks, I have been having many wiring related issues. I found a schematic that includes the wiring for the gauges that I am going to go off of. I have a couple of questions before I begin.
1.) On the schematic, it shows connectors such as "Connector G" which is moving all of the gauges wires to there locations. Do I need to use a specific Ford connector, or could I purchase a new connector at any hardware store that carries them? As far as I am concerned, connectors do the same thing as all other connectors. (Let you connect and disconnect for easy instrument cluster removal.)
2.) I am not looking to purchase one of those expensive wiring harnesses. I would like to just purchase some wire that I can cut / use myself. What brand / type of wire should I be looking to purchase? I do not care if it is striped / colored as I will use wire tabs to name / label each wire.
Other than that, I feel confident enough to attempt something such as this. Here is the wiring schematic I am going to use.....
Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
View 14 RepliesI plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.