Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1997 - Headlights / Brake Lights Cut Off When Hit High Beam Switch?
Jul 16, 2016
So I recently bought a 1997 7.3l F250. It is in fairly good condition, but it has some problems with the lights working. The turn signals and hazards all work, as do the tail lights and headlights. However, when I hit the high beam switch, the headlights cut off entirely. Also, the brake lights do not work at all. Ive checked the bulbs and since they all work Im not sure what the issue is.
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I have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
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To make your fog lamps stay on when you go from low beam to high beam ,what do you have to do. I know there is a wire you cut and go to ground under your dash.
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Just discovered that both high beams are not working. Regular lights ok. When switch to high beam both go off. I know some bulbs have two filaments, is this the case for this car? Are the bulbs burnt out or something else is wrong?
This is a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited.
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The problem is that my headlights on my 1996 Cherokee Jeep XJ switch off unexpectedly. I can get them to come back on for extended periods by fiddling with the control knob in certain ways. This is the kind where you pull out of the knob to turn the lights on, and can rotate the knob to brighten or dim the dash.
If I pull a bit harder on the knob, the lights come on; if I twist this way just so, then off they go; that sort of thing. The fuses are fine and the contacts in the fuse box are clean. High beams work great no matter what (these are controlled from the steering column). I think the problem is at the control knob.
Now, how can I keep my headlights on when I turn them on every time without having to fight the gremlins? I think my next move is to remove the bezels and so on as best I can and get in there with some proper contact cleaner to see it's just built up gunk causing havoc. If that fails, or if that's a bad idea, what's next?
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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I added plow lights to my truck and something quit when I had the high beams all on at once. All 4 shut off. Low beams still working. What I fried or where to check? Its a 99 F250 superduty.
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Series 7 , 82 model, light switch drama. I think they worked fine before I had removed the dash but it has a multi plug that I never interfered with but the truck had been in water and the contacts on it were rusty and I know the unit has been submerged.
Anyway, the unit clicks and sort of buzzes and the headlights and side lights flicker and the rear LED lights barely flicker, need to watch closely. I have cleaned and used contact fluid all connections under the truck as I washed it the other day too.
Brake lights work perfectly, indicators too, just associated lights from this pull switch. The unit gets hot, not burning hot but hot enough not to hold for too long. So, thoughts ?
Need new unit ?
Touched something ?
Water ingress finally making unit fail ?
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2010 F-250 14,000 miles, gas engine with Knapheide utility bed. Tilt wheel has been kept in the up position from day 1.
The problem:
No rear brake lights.
No high mount brake light.
No rear turn signals.
No rear hazard flashing lights.
All trailer lights work.
All other truck lights work.
Things checked: Fuses all OK. Visual inspection of multi-function switch. Looks clean. Brake switch at brake pedal has power on one wire. Jumpered the other wire-no brake lights.
I need to haul my trailer and am nervous when I see a Savannah, GA metro police car.
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I bought a set of driving lights to mount at the back of my F250 for extra light when backing up, and hooked them up to Upfitter #4, but they do not work. I mounted them on the hitch, grounded them both on the bed (where a support bracket attaches), ran the power wire up to the front of the truck, and connected it to the white blunt cut pass through wire by the master cylinder. Then inside the cab, I connected the other end of the white pass through wire to the orange/lt. blue wire for upfitter #4. I started the truck, flipped on the #4 switch, and nothing. What I did wrong?
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Wondering if there is a way to program the headlights and running lights so they DO NOT come on when I open the doors?? And to turn OFF when the switch is off??
2014 super duty lariat
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I have a 2000 E150 (Glavel Conversion) van and the interior lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened, although they used to. They also no longer turn on from the headlight dimmer switch. They will turn on individually if the manual switch at each light is pressed while the engine is running, so the bulbs and wiring appear to be working. I replaced the headlight switch with no noticeable effect. Is there a timing circuit that switches these on for a short period of time to allow illuminated entry that could have failed? If so, where would I find the module and how would I test? Relays and fuses look good.
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I have a 1981 F100, lately when I've been driving at night I notice my headlights, dash lights, and charging light will flicker at the same time, and even sometimes my headlights will flash on and off by themselves.
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My brake lights don't work. Turn signals, tail lights, hazard flashers work, but if I hit the brake, nothing happens. What could possibly be the problem? Could there be a wiring issue?
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I did lower the steering column, onto the seat. Also lowed the dash and the wiring. Does it sound like the Multifunction switch could be bad? I can put it in drive, so I don't think it's the brake light pedal switch, that's bad.
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i have an 85 f150. the brake lights are not working. i checked the bulbs, both filiments are working. i have running lights, turn signals, and hazards, just no brake lights. i am confused as to why i have everything else except brake lights. need to figure out what to do next to figure this out.
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I discovered today that I have no brake lights on my '02 Excursion. The center brake light works fine, but the two in the taillights don't come on. Stopped and bought new bulbs on the way home and replaced both, but the ones I pulled out were not blown. Checked the fuse - OK. Taillights and turn signals both work fine.
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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Looking for wiring diagram for the older Ford cruise control switches. I'm wanting to add an aftermarket system but use the factory switches. It's for a 99 ranger with the steering wheels like the mark 8s, older mustangs, explorers, and many others, had.
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While driving I turned on my headlights and my car became possessed. My warning lights started to flicker on and off, my car was dinging out of control. The speedometer, gas, and RPM gauge went to zero. My brights light would not come on. My dinging for the lights being left on, or the key being left in the ignition, after the car is parked, and the door is open, will not go on either. I turned my lights off and all was well. Turned them on again and the same thing happened.
Now, the following day, it is doing this periodically every couple of minutes while I'm driving, whether the lights are on or not. My radio and head lights work fine. I checked all my fuses and they all seem to be AOK. I disconnected my car battery and reconnected it to see if it would reset and it still did the same thing. One other strange occurrence. The last month or so while I've been driving my battery light came on for a few minutes. I had the battery checked and it is not bad. Then last week my gas-cap warning started to randomly appear. I changed my gas cap, and guess what.....it still came on, at random.
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