Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1997 E350 - MIL Code 4011 - Insufficient Secondary Air Injection
Aug 13, 2013
My 97 E350/460ci occasionally sets trouble code 4011. It clears every time I check it with my code reader. Something about insufficient secondary air injection. The dealer ship couldn't duplicate/diagnose the problem. Maybe something with the air injection solenoids.
Otherwise, it runs fine. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine compartment a large black metal filter looking thingie with about a 3/4" outlet that doesn't have any hose on it or seem to go anywhere else. Once in a while when you start it i hear a sort of soft popping noise for a few seconds that I would associate with the air pump.
Also can't get the ABS light to go away. It's out when you start it but as soon as you get going it comes on. I flushed the fluid and replaced the rear sensor to no avail. Also tried to flush out the front tone wheels and sensors.
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Where can I find/buy a wiring schematic for a 2012 Ford E350 with the 5.4 L V8?
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Just got the dreaded p2440 code which is the secondary air injection valve failure. Not only do you get several lights on the dash, you also get limp mode with this code.
My GX is a 2011 with 46k, and even though several Toyota vehicles have had their warranty extended to 10yr 150k for this very system, Lexus has done no such thing.
The dealer was very familiar with this issue and knew it wasn't covered under any existing warranty. He said it's "around $2000" to fix because one of the valves is still under the intake manifold.
Even though I hate to "RIG" my GX, I ordered the bypass module from EBAY. It blocks the system off and tricks the ecu into thinking all is well.
For those not familiar, this system runs on cold starts for 30 seconds or so to warm up the cats, it has no other function.
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Secondary air injection system leak detected-Bank 1 & 2... 2003 miles on my car and the CEL pops on this morning. VCV bodies are being replaced tomorrow. The tech didn't fully understand what parameters to test for or what conditions would be present to set this code, I can't say that I do either... the flapper could possibly play a role in this..?
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120K miles - love the car
CEL, skid, VSC trac and VSC off lights on - dealer said the code was p2441 Secondary Air Injection System switch stuck. Dealer said I needed to replace air injection system and that the cel would not go off until it was repaired. They completed the 120K service and when I picked it up, all the warning lights were off. I have driven it a couple of hundred miles since then and still no lights. Does that mean it could have been something else???? I love the car, but I need tires and brakes and now repair charges for a 2005 car with 120K.
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I got 2001 vw jetta 2.0.. I keep getting check engine light,,when i scan it keep saying P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected. i replaced new smog air pump, and new egr valve and today i was driving car and i got check engine light, its still same code.
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2004 VR6 24v ... I had another thread about my son's car stalling after driving about 20 miles and then running good again after letting it sit for a couple of hours. Anyway I changed the Crank Position Sensor and I have been driving it work and back the last couple of days so I am starting to relax that the CPS fixed that problem. Won't be positively sure for a while as the problem took a while to occur. So far so good.
While coming to work today the car picked up the P0411 code, secondary air injection system incorrect flow. When I changed the CPS sensor i unbolted a module underneath the car by the oil filter to get better access to the CPS. I did not remove it, just unbolted it so I could push it out of the way about and inch.
After putting it all back together and driving it for several trips with no stalling this P0411 comes on. Is that module I moved the Secondary Air Pump and could I have disturbed something. I will check it when I get home. How critical is that code. I read where it works to warm a cold engine. What effect would there be driving with that code?
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I have a 2007 e350. I installed a battery isolator and I believe I need to run a wire from the ignition circuit to the exciter post on the isolator. I found the Power Distribution Panel under the hood (drivers side) which has a fuse in slot #7 (60 amp Maxi Fuse) listed as Ignition Switch/Accessory Delay. What is the best way to tap into this?
Also, I have 8 gauge wire which I ran from the isolator to the batteries. I am second guessing this now and wondering if I should go with thicker wire?
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I must be missing something here. Where is the flasher for the turn signals? It isn't the two relays behind the radio is it?
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I bought a 1952 F1 that is mounted on a 1978 E350 chassis.( 351W )
It has all the 78 wiring installed. When cranking engine, it will not start, unless you release key to run position. You have to get engine turning over, and then quickly release key to start. Checked back of switch, not losing voltage at ignition post while cranking...
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I have a 1996 E350 7.3 pstd and it hasn't started since April... Van ran great but had bad bearings in the steering column. I changed out the bearings around the steering stem and it hasn't started since but turns over just fine. The main symptom is the dash loses power when key is rotating from the last run position to the spring back crank position. Basically halfway between run and start the the dash drops power. You can see the problem very well in this video I'm attaching.
I filmed this moths ago so the dash is in disarray and I'm using a screw driver to activate the ignition switch. The screw driver bypasses the key cylinder which I thought was the problem but it's not. Parts I've replaced include new glow plug relay, new ignition switch, alternator rebuilt, 2 brand new batteries, new cps sensor, and also a new pcm. All fuses and relays have been checked and most have been tested, pcm gets power in run position as well. Gotta get this thing figured out it's been sitting for 6 months
Watch the video : [URL] ....
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I have a 1983 E350 RV with a 460 engine. It would appear that many "Mechanics" have altered the wiring in different ways. That being said I think the charging and starting electrics are fairly untouched. My issue is that once it has been running for a while the interior lights start to fluctuate so does the radio display. The AC fan speeds up and slows down and I feel like there is not enough gas being pumped up too due to some coughing and sputtering. When I press the brakes the radio stops playing and if I have the AC on it gets worse. Today I changed the voltage regulator and it made no difference. This vehicle has two batteries, one for starting the van like normal and one to run the coach part. The alternator charges both. I think it must be a bad ground somewhere but not sure where to start.
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I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
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Finally getting to my header and exhaust install.
I plan on removing the secondary air injection as I have no provision for it. Will this throw a CEL?
Looks like it goes into a rubber hose and comes around to the top of the intake manifold.
What is the best/cleanest way to cap this off?
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Where the secondary air injection pump is? I'm getting P1411 & P1423 codes.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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1997 F150. 6Cyl, 4.2L, 139K miles. The truck threw a P401 code(EGR Flow insufficient)and won't pass emmisions here (due by the end of March). So far this is what
I've done : Replaced EGR, replaced DPFE, replaced EVR solenoid, removed throttle body manifold under EGR and cleaned all ports (they weren't even dirty), cleaned and checked all vacumn lines from the DPFE to the main EGR tube from exhaust. Also cleaned the main EGR exhaust tube.
Everything is squeaky clean. All voltages going to the DPFE/EGR are spot on and the whole system seems OK. But the P401 code literally comes on almost immediately (less than 2 miles) after clearing the code (I hooked up my scanner to see how long).
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I have a beautiful 1996 Saab, 900s. Recently the check engine light came on and at Autozone they said the code was for the secondary air injection pump. I took it to a new mechanic, he checked it out and called me to say the pump itself was broken and would cost 1,000 to fix. I said that was a lot, and would think about it, and picked up my car.
Strangest thing- the check engine light is now off! Is this normal? And I just took the car in for the state inspection, it passed! I was under the impression a car without a working secondary air injection pump can't pass emissions. What is going on here??
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My 2006 W12 has been trouble free since taking delivery over a year and a half and 30K miles ago. Just broke 60K total miles over the weekend and the engine light came on. I have pasted the scan below. I cleared the codes and drove about 500 miles before the MIL reappeared. I have read this thread: [URL] ....
My first question is: Is there any harm in continuing to drive it?
I have visually inspected the secondary air injection system hoses and can't find anything glaring (no kinks, leaks, disconnections). I am open to taking the car to the dealership but I have low confidence in their diagnostic capabilities. I am fine with them doing work once we know what is wrong but I want to tell them what to do (replace a bunch of hoses for example). How to proceed?
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 AJ HW: 000 000 000 00
Component: D1-6.0L-AT-LEV2 G 6722
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWZ3Z0E5400307
Coding: 0000173
[Code] ....
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My 2001 F-150 came up with this code and I changed the EGR valve cleared the code and it returned 15 miles later. The truck only has 30K miles and the warranty expired 24 May.
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Dreaded insufficient EGR flow. I've read I should clean the EGR ports.
I can't really find where these are? I took the throttle body off.
What I should do with this thing? I also get a hesitation on initial take off.
1999 F150 4.2 V6 ... 160k miles on it. Runs good otherwise.
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