Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1996 Ranger - Adding Cruise Control?
Dec 9, 2014
i have a 96 ranger and want to put cruise control in it. is the wiring there and what other parts do i need to get without going aftermarket.
View 1 Repliesi have a 96 ranger and want to put cruise control in it. is the wiring there and what other parts do i need to get without going aftermarket.
View 1 RepliesLooking for wiring diagram for the older Ford cruise control switches. I'm wanting to add an aftermarket system but use the factory switches. It's for a 99 ranger with the steering wheels like the mark 8s, older mustangs, explorers, and many others, had.
View 1 RepliesI am trying to find out if Ford's cruise control has gotten crappy, or if mine has problems in my '06 F250. When I set the cruise, it goes about 3 MPH above what I set it at, then drops to about 3 MPH below, then it eventually stays where I set it. That is until I come to the top of an overpass or other small grade, then it is back to about 3 MPH over again as I reach the top and level out, then going back to where I set it.
The cruise control in my previous Ford trucks (83 & 91), as well as my 82 Mustang, 85 Lincoln, wife's 97 Toyota and the 2013 Chevy rental I just had, works fine. Where you set it is where it stays. Of course going up or down a steep grade, they all are going to lose or gain speed.
Anyway, I have taken the truck to the dealer twice for the cruise control. The first time is when I got the truck in '08. They replaced something else non-related, and said that would fix the cruise. It did work marginally, as the fluctuation was +-4 MPH before. I just took it in again before it goes off warranty, and they said the cruise is operating normally. So, there's my story. Is this normal, or is something wrong?
I have an 89 f250 7.3. horn has not been working for the longest time the relay clicks but still nothing. It doesn't matter weather the key is in the on or off position. I know it might be a grounding problem because the cruise control does not work any more (even though recently it was working just fine). I didn't see any bad fuses.
View 6 RepliesF250 6.8L .. So Ive read a lot of posts about intermittent cruise control issues. I understand that the most common failure is the brake switch on the master cylinder. My concern is that I am unable to run the cruise control self test I keep reading about. Does this test not work on my model year. I have tried even when the cruise control is working and still the cc light does no come on.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 f150 5.0 engine and automatic transmission. Problem I am having is speedometer, cruise control is not working. Overdrive light is flashing and number 18 fuse keep blowing. horn is still working...
View 1 RepliesI have a wire that i think belongs to my Cruise control and I can't find out were it connects. It is dark blue/green stripe. It is in a wiring bundle with the oil sending wires ( two wires blk/w and y/o ).
I also get a code ....no sig from clutch neutral switch.
I just got done putting new heads on my little 2.9 and can't wait to use this as my daily drive. These two wiring issues are keeping my truck from running well enough to drive.
Where is the cruise control amplifier located on an 85 F-150? The Chilton manual just says "behind the instrument panel". No pic or further description. Just looking up from the bottom of the dash I see a "black box" with 2 wires going into the top of it located just between the steering column and the wiper switch.
Is this it?
I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
View 3 Replies1997 F250 HD 7.3L It is a May build so is mainly 1996 parts. Came from the factory with auto transmission but PO did manual swap. Truck had factory cruise control but never worked after the swap. I found clutch safety switch missing so installed that and now it works as far as truck only starting with clutch in and other pins ohm good but it didn't fix the no cruise issue. All the diagrams I can find are wrong so I am stumped.
Horn works and steering wheel brushes appear to be functional.
Brake switch has 12V in and out so I think it is ok.
Brake switch on master cylinder has power in and out so I believe it is ok.
All brake lights work since I read that diagrams don't show it but they are somehow tied into the cruise.
I believe the issue is in the clutch safety switch (CPPS) wiring as I only have power on one wire however my colors don't match my Haynes or online diagrams. Also, no where can I find if this circuit runs on hot 12V or ground. Some wrong diagrams show hot 12V coming in on the light green wire from the brake switch but others show a hard ground on the red/Blu wire.
Most diagrams say I should have red/LtBlu, Red/LtGrn, LtGrn, Gray/Yellow. I actually have Red/Blue, White/Red, Tan/Blue, White/Brn. The White/Brn has power coming into the switch.
The connector for the automatic transmission column shifter is disconnected and the shifter was removed. I read that this needed to be jumpered to the tan/blue wire after a conversion on the CPPS but only on 2002 and up trucks so I don't think this affects me. That plug is for overdrive cancel.
Looking for a good diagram for a manual shift, diesel cruise control circuit that shows my color wires on the CPPS? I have had this truck 2 months and have fixed everything except this and will be making a long trip soon so cruise would be nice to have functional but I am stumped.
1991 F250 Supercab Diesel 4X4. I made a mistake while wiring up my trailer lights and ended up grounding out my brake controller, frying it. Along with that, I popped a couple fuses as well (1, 5 and 9 I believe). Replaced all fuses and got my signals (F/R) back at least.
Here's what's NOT working/messed up:
*Brake Lights
*Cruise Control
*Rear ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving.
*Front hazards work, not rear. When I apply the brake, the hazards pause in the on position.
I've tested the brake switch on the brake pedal (Green/Red and Green) and it works properly. So, current is obviously not reaching the rear brake lights.
Another note. The truck is wired with a 7 pin plug in the bed for a goose neck trailer. It also was wired to a 6 pin on the bumper. I replaced the 6 pin with a 7. The signal/brake pins on the plugs (both) and also not receiving power. What's the next thing to check?
I have a Derale 16749 electric fan controller set up had a fan die, went back to a old set up using a fan shroud I made and sable fans being the controller isn't set up to handle the load from these fans I want to just add relays in. Way the derale is set up to the fan is 12v. constant but the ground is also a 12v. until the switch reaches temp. then becomes a ground. I am not concerned with wiring the low side up on these fans just high side.
View 1 RepliesWhat I am trying to do it put in 2 led spot light for added backing up light. What i want to do is have them turn on when put into reverse but also have a switch i can use to turn them on when not in reverse. Just need to know what relay I need and if it even can be done.
I was also thinking of just taping into the wiring harness and adding a wire that goes to the spot lights and another wire that goes to a switch that I could turn on and supply power to the light when not in reverse (I know it will light the revers light also) but is it ok to do that?
I have an 2015 450 chassis Class C motorhome. The backup camera is integrated into the Pioneer stereo in the dash. The stereo is wired into the headlight switch to automatically dim the display when the lights are turned on. Since I always drive with my headlights turned on, this makes it nearly impossible to see the screen during the daytime.
I learned from Pioneer what to do to disable this feature, but need to install a switch in the circuit to do this. I'm hoping to install a simple on/off toggle switch into the dashboard's existing space. In the picture below, I'm wanting to put the switch into the "round" hole marked Audio Jack.
My question is how do I get the "round plug" out of this hole? And need to know the diameter of the existing hole?
a buddy of mine has a 12 F250 that he bought new and is ready to add power locks and windows. I know we can get some aftermarket kits for both but he wants to use the factory door panels and switches from a power setup. I am sure we could use the factory window regulators and panels and just use and aftermarket wiring and flush mount switches. I had figured the wiring might be in the jambs but not in the doors, but when I pulled the trim back, we didn't find any extra wiring going to the rear doors, its a crew.
View 1 RepliesI'm trying to figure out how / if cruise control can be added to a 2005 F150 with the 4.2L V6. I bought an aftermarket kit, popped the hood, and then learned all about electronic throttles . What (aside from adding the cruise control switches) do you have to do?
View 14 RepliesI'm working on the '73 F250 in my sig. I'm not very skilled when it comes to electrical work and I don't want to hack things. First up is I'm wiring a 7-way trailer connector with brakes. I need to tap into the brake light switch at the pedal, what is the cleanest way to do this? I was thinking of sticking a blade connector in the existing connector or adding a plug pigtail.
Also in the future I will (hopefully) be doing a 3G alternator swap and adding relays to keep my headlights from shutting off. I'm looking for suggestions on a junkyard or aftermarket fuse block that will accommodate the circuit breaker for the trailer brake, the 100 amp fuse for the 3g swap and the relays for the headlights.
My 1999 SD was originally a Work Truck without cruise. I'd like to add cruise of some sort (factory or after market), but also trying to keep the cost and difficulty factors low.
Have any of you SD drivers ever done this and if so, what you went through?
The latest addition to the driveway (2012 F250 XL 6.2) is getting ready to be geared up for it's tour of duty. The one thing that was on the would-be-nice but not must-have list was cruise control. This truck doesn't have it, which wasn't a deal breaker because the truck was way inside my budget.
So anyways, while researching hitches, tonneau covers, steps, etc. I came across this : [URL] ....
Is this all I need to install the speed control? I would assume the dealer would have to get into the logic and enable something, but is this switch really all the hardware I need to buy?
I have been trying to resolve the last of my codes on my MAF conversion on a 460. I am using an EEC-V box and had two codes I couldn't get rid of. I solved one yesterday, P0443 a evap purge code, by running the circuit directly from the EEC to the VMV.
The current issue is a code P1351, which is the IDM circuit. When I put everything together originally, I assumed that all the later systems used the black CCD module, Motorcraft DY-533. Adam Maurer asked that I check this to be sure. When I went to the Motorcraft website, I found that all 460 remote modules are listed as a DY-1075, gray push start.
The wiring diagram (from the 1995 and 1996 EVTMs) shows a yellow with black stripe wire (circuit 382) from pin 3 of the ICM to either pin #4 (EEC-IV) or pin #48 (EEC-V). Older systems show to start (circuit 32, red with light blue) to pin #3 of the ICM and a suppression resistor from circuit 11 (coil -) to pin #4 of the EEC-IV. which ICM a 1996 EEC-V 460 should have?
My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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