Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1996 F350 - Driver Rear Door Lock Stuck In Locked Position
Jul 25, 2016
My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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Repaired my locks on my F350. Had the motor reversed. Before I figured that out I thought I needed to change the wires in the plug. Changed them and it didn't work, put them back and now the switch on that door does not work for the lock; however, all other switches work. What do I need to fix?
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My door will not lock..when you hit the remote, the door button or try to push it down..it goes down a little and there is resistance and then it comes right back up. If I use the key it will lock easily, but once you turn the key to get it out it comes right back up. I can hear the motor working, but it feels like there is something stopping it from going all the way down.
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My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
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The drivers side Hub seems to be stuck in Locked Position. I lifted the Wheel and when I turn it the Front Drive shaft turns and you can feel a fair amount of resistance.
I lifted the Passenger side and it spins free. I then started it and put it in 4WD and the passenger side engaged and i could not free spin the wheel. I then lifted the drivers side again and it would not spin. Turned off 4WD and it spun again but moved the shaft.
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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I have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
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My rear driver-side door's lock just stopped functioning. It is in the locked position and I can't put it in the unlocked position using the key or manually (and I've tried using a LOT of force). The door itself is actually not locked. When I lock and unlock the doors, all the other doors work fine, and the broken one tries to lock and unlock, but it is stuck hard in it's position. But, the door stays unlocked under all circumstances.
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
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I have a 2011, F-350, Lariat, Crew Cab, 4x4, 6.7 Stroker. I have asked if any way to disable the automatic feature that turns on the marker lights when opening a door. That has been sometime back and nobody seemed to know. I have checked with Ford and their response was that if the truck was equipped with the "Police Package" that it could be done.
There has to be a way to disable a relay, cut some wire or something to stop the lights from being turned on automatically. Maybe duct tape over the door switch?
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I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
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I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. Both driver side door locks work/fail intermittently. This sometimes does/doesn't happen when i use the inside door panel button, outside door button, outside hand sensor when i grab the door latch, remote control buttons, gear shift . . . etc. I see the driver side locks open/close or not move while I see the passenger side doors lock/unlock correctly.
For some reason, it seems to be a bit better when the weather gets warmer around hear in the northeast. I thought it might have something to do with the integration relay. But I'm not exactly sure where it is. I looked under the dashboard, too many wires!. On the drivers side I have located the fuse box, unplugged most of the wires, plugged them back in and it seemed to work only for a day or two, but the temperature also warmed up on those days.
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I drive a 2004 Ford Ranger. When I use the remote to unlock my truck, there is a grinding electrical sound, and the driver side door does not unlock. The passenger side does, though. Also, when I try to use my key to unlock the door, the driver's side door will not unlock with the key. I can open the driver's side door from the inside by using the handle, but the electric lock button will not unlock the door. It seems like the piece that pops up when the truck is unlocked has a hard time raising to unlock the door. Neither my boyfriend nor I can figure out what the problem is. I find that when I take my truck in for any problem, people at the dealership try to take advantage of the fact that I'm female and don't know much about cars. Need to know what is going on before I take it in anywhere to get fixed.
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Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
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For the past couple days my 02 passat drivers side door wont lock with out being manually locked, when my light are on and I get out of my car it does not chime and my lights wont come on when I open the door.
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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I have a '95 dually and it has small yellow running lights on the rear fenders. The only time those lights will come on is when the headlights are on (or parking lights) and I put it in reverse. Not sure, but I would have guessed they are supposed to on when the lights are on and go out when the truck is put in reverse.
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I have a 2001 Prius. Well, it looks like the electrical door lock on my driver door is no longer working. I can lock/unlock it manually with the key, but the clicker doesn't work on it at all. I was having trouble with the front passenger door locking, but discovered that clicking twice would get it to lock. Now, that door is working just fine, but the driver door isn't responding at all (the lights don't even flash). All the other doors lock/unlock fine, so it's not the clicker.
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