I recently purchased a 1995 F150 4x4 with the 351 Windsor. Upon driving it I realized the speedo didn't work, transmission shifted hard,and OD light blinking. After googling my issue I found out it was the VSS. I climbed under the truck to find out the VSS isn't even plugged in. I searched for the wire but could not find it, only a spliced cable.....
View 4 Replies1994 Lightning E40d... I was on my way home from work and noticed my speedometer jumping from zero to around the speed I was going on the highway. Then as i got off the exit I noticed hard shifting. It was in neutral between shifts for a few seconds and then it would go into gear jolting the truck forward. The abs light was the only thing on at the time. I tried turning off over drive only to get higher revs which scared me away from the gas pedal. Since I can't afford to replace my transmission. It happened all the sudden over halfway home from a 35 mile drive. I'm assuming it's some kind of electrical issue. What's going on with my baby?
View 2 RepliesI got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
View 8 RepliesI have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1994 f150 5.0 engine and automatic transmission. Problem I am having is speedometer, cruise control is not working. Overdrive light is flashing and number 18 fuse keep blowing. horn is still working...
View 1 RepliesI have a 95 f350 with a 460 motor and a e4od trans with 90,000 miles. My speedometer,odometer quit working and then transmission shifts hard in all gears. I've checked the fuses and all are good. I've even replaced the speed sensor but still have the same problems and don't know were to look next. Where or what to check?
View 1 RepliesI just got my truck back from the tranny shop 3 days ago,was driving down the hiway looked down and my speedo went from 65 to 0 instantly. it was driving fine till i exited then started reving and not shifting till about 3000 rpms. So i changed the sensor on the rear end and the vss on the transfer case but no results.
View 7 RepliesMy 03 expedition has a blinking air bag light. It blinks 4 times and then 2 times and repeats. I have googled this and found 42 = Primary Crash Sensor #2 Feed/Return Circuit - Open
How to fix this? Where to look, what to test, what the service manual says?
So I get in my X today and she fires right up as usual... Then the battery light started blinking then stayed on... Then I hear a click and all my stock gauges go out my window and lock switches don't work and my radio doesn't work... Battery light stays on and all signals work as do the mirrors and everything else... I turn the truck off then back on it all comes back on.. 15-20 seconds later I hear the click and all the same stuff is off again.... No seemingly applicable fuses are blown... And the behavior is repeatable...
View 4 RepliesNeed a wire diagram. I have a connector in the cab that has red,blue,lt green,white wires. It's causing my brake lights not to work. I need a wire diagram that shows were they go. I can't find these wires in my Haynes manual.
View 3 RepliesI have 2005 ford excursion with 24300 miles. My speedometer is not working, engine light on , abs light one, overdrive flashing. I just changed speed sensor on rearend, but my speedometer still not working.
View 4 Repliesmy 98 ranger od/ light is blinking and shifts hard took it to a tranny shop they rebuilt the tranny & replaced torque converter got truck back drove for a week got on highway o/d light blinking again took back to tranny shop he said truck needed good tune up to get a diagnostic reading tired of the excuses they give me. Ready to take to another shop then sue 1st shop for bad work the ranger has a 4.0 v6 at 4wd ?
View 3 RepliesSpeedometer not working and O/D light blinks, I have a 450 and a 250, 99 and 2000. On 450 this is an intermiting problem. Stop truck turn ignition off, restart and it all works now. Just started on my 250 and stopping and turning ignition off cures the problems for a few seconds, after i get moving the speedometer doesnt work and then light starts blinking again O/D light. Where do I need to start?
View 7 RepliesI bought a friends 95 f350 7.3 powerstroke with an E4OD. The truck quit driving.the OD light is not blinking. I confirmed the OD light does light up.The trans fluid is full , red and does not smell burnt. I have tried to manually shift 1st and second nothing happens. No reverse. Where should I look for the problem? Solenoid pack, loose valve body, bad relay?
View 1 RepliesRecently the ABS light came on (truck does not have ABS), also speedometer quit working and trans was not shifting right. After a few minutes the problem went away.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Winnebago RV on a Ford F53 chassis. Recently, I turned the vehicle off and found that the speedometer was stuck at 40. After opening the dash in an attempt to investigate the instrument cluster, it dropped back to 0. However, upon moving the truck again, it jumps back to 40. Once I accelerate up to highway speeds, It begins to work properly above 40. Now it sounds just like every other broken cluster post I've seen, but here's where it becomes different:
When I stop somewhere, and its still at 40, I can flip the dash up and it immediately drops to 0 and stays normal until I move again. It then works until about 10, then shoots up to 40 again, and stays there until I hit 40, at which point it resumes working. Once I get below 40 again, it stays at 40 until I stop and flip the dash up.
I assume there must be a wire crossing that I am pulling apart by lifting the dash. However, there is a mess of wiring down there, and I don't have a clue how to find where it is crossing, assuming that's the problem.
Before the problem was discovered, I made three electrical changes, though I can't imagine why they would affect the speedo.
1. I rewired the trailer plug. I wasn't sure why, but I had no power coming to my running light wire in the towing harness. I couldn't figure out why that wire was dead, so I just tapped one of the tail lights and wired the trailer plug.
2. I replaced my backup camera. The old Sony began to flash, so I just ran the new camera wire under the frame and behind the dash. I wired the monitor to the existing cables that the old one was connected to.
3. The chassis battery somehow died while driving. It was slow to start in the morning when we left, and about seven hours later, I shut the vehicle down at a camping world and when I went to leave, nothing. Somehow the battery was down to 6 volts, which I have never seen before. Long story short, new battery and it started up and has been fine besides that speedometer thing.
My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
View 2 RepliesI can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.
Here's what I've checked.
1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.
Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:
- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.
With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.
Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?
Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?
My hazard, reverse don't work. The over all instruments panel light doesn't light up (the small bulbs work). Gauges with needles work. I'm putting every thing back into the truck. I left the steering wheel resting on the floor while cleaning and also left the wiring in. Everything else came out because I had to clean out the smell of mice. After I installed the instrument panel I started the truck, there was no hazard lights. I checked all the fuses under the dash. I checked all the fuses under the hood.
I did have a bent brake plug blade to bend straight. I need to replace a bad key cylinder, you can turn it without a key. I believe there were three plugs I unplug to lower the steering wheel. Park brake, brake pedal and a plug under the steering wheel. Wipers, interior ceiling light work. I believe there's a switch on the column (?) that includes the wiper arm. Should it also operate the hazard lights ? The steering column is installed, I can drive it around. Outside cargo lights won't go off, even with the light switch pushed in. Everything worked before.
I just bought an 05 F250 XLT. I noticed tonight that the rear turn signals and brake lights dont work.
the front turn signals work fine, although they flash fast. I know that usually means a light on its way out. neither taillight flashes though, which puzzles me.
my second issue is that, of the 3 brake lights, only the high mounted light illuminates when I hit the brakes.