I have a need for a 12-volt signal to indicate the engine is in start or run mode. I would like to pull this from the engine compartment but I'm not sure what would be the best or easiest way to do this. The 12-volt signal is not used to power anything so it will draw very little current. I have a 94 F150.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
View 1 RepliesLong story short, my truck's front turn signals and rear turn signals/tail lights won't work. I am thinking that the relay is burnt. Whenever I look in the manual I can't seem to find the location for this relay. Is is built into the flasher?
Also, I am just assuming because the rear turn signals and tail lights are the same bulb that fixing this should clear up both problems. Am I right in thinking that?
I have already checked all of the fuses. Also, the Hazards don't work either.
My 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
I have an 08 F150 5.4L with about 68k miles. When the temperature is 40 degrees or colder it will not crank. I had the same issue with my 2005. I can turn the key and nothing, lights, radio and everything work. The dash display has dashes all the across for the miles, temp and compass. I have found out that it doesn't matter if I leave the key forward in the run position or try to crank, it won't do anything.
Battery is good and no problems with the truck. After the key is in and I give it anywhere from 15 to 60 seconds you can hear an electrical click real faintly and see the red security light come on and then the computer display comes on and then I can start with no problem? What could this be? My dealership has no clues and I can get it to act up because after I get it there it starts with no issue. The remotes work fine and this issue was why I got rid of my '05.
2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
I have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT. It just died the other night. I have dim dome light, nothing else. I had the battery and alternator tested, both are ok. I get an occasional click when trying to start it. I also get an occasional beeping, the key in the ignition sound. I've checked the fuses, and can't find a broken one.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford F-150. It has an issue with starting sometimes. The truck won't start with a fully charged battery but when I hook it up to a charger, the truck starts normally. It was going to get the wheels aligned today and when the mechanic went to drive it off the ramp, it wouldn't start. I told him to put a charger on the battery and it started right up. Without the charger it just cranked over and wouldn't start. It doesn't do this every time I go to start it only occasionally. The mechanic had no idea what the problem was and has never heard of this kind of situation. I'm assuming it is an electrical problem but I'm not an expert with engines. The battery was fully charged at the shop and the battery is a year old.
View 4 RepliesThe red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
View 1 RepliesMy neighbor's kids truck battery drains from full charge to "no start" in 1-2 days. 1999 Ford F-150 w/ 4.6L engine. He has already.....
1) Replaced the Battery.
2) Replaced the GEM module.
3) Replaced the Turn Signal Relay.
He did all this before I looked at it....
I checked the following....
1) Truck off, doors closed, hood open... Amp meter shows 3.6 amp draw. When 1st hooked up, shows 4.2 amps... after a while drops to 3.6.
2) To isolate the draw, we pulled fuses while checking current draw at battery.
a) Under Dash fuse Panel. (Yes, with door closed) We remove fuse #15 "stop lamp switch, speed control, brake shift interlock, ABS, PCM,GEM, RABS test connector". (Really... couldn't be more stuff?)
b)Under the hood is another fuse box (drivers side). We remove Fuse #103. "Junction Block Battery Feed".
3) Found that if we remove the #15 fuse under the dash with the door opens, all interior lights flash on/off at about 1 second intervals... weird.
4) Again, another weird one... with the fuse #15 removed and door closed, the "ABS" indicator and some other indicators and dash lights are staying partially lit... not fully lit.
5) The only "aftermarket" stuff i can see is a dealer installed trailer brake system. Wiring looks professional and disconnecting it does not remove the amperage drain.
I'm hoping that one of you wizards will give me the "slam dunk"... if this happens, it must be that. Can I be so lucky? And, yes. I have my own '06 F-150 that i absolutely love. 6-cyl., manual trans, stripped down without even power door locks... my kinda technology.
I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
View 3 RepliesLooking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
View 3 RepliesI have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
View 2 RepliesOK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
View 3 RepliesI got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
View 8 RepliesI have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F150 6 cyl. 4.2, 2 WD with 160,000 miles. Replaced the battery May 2010.
Today battery light came on. Battery gauge did not look like it was discharging. Had battery checked they said it was a little low but OK. Then they continued test and tried to check alternator, test stopped and they said something wrong with alternator most likely.
I took alternator out and had it bench tested. They said it was OK, putting out 98 amp on 95 amp alternator. They said check wires, grounds, harness, connections. Checked connections and wires as much as possible, reinstalled alternator, light still on.
Have not checked fuses yet. Was told to start vehicle, disconnect positive battery cable and if engine continued to run alternator was good, if cut off alternator was bad and to replace. Should I try this and is it true?
What is the part on the fire wall that is between the alternator and the battery that the wire connection runs through? Can it be bench tested/checked?
I have a 94 Fsuperduty with a flatbed and lift that folds up and stores under the end of the bed. Recently while on a job the lift wouldn't go up, so I checked the one fuse I know of in the system and it was burnt. Put a new one in and before the lift reached the top it burnt-out again. It had been working with no problems for months prior to then.
View 4 RepliesI'm working on a 289 from a 65 Fairlane; When I attempt to start the engine it will turn over however, it will not start. I can switch it on and jump it with a screw driver and it starts right up. It started once with the key so I don't think it's the wiring. I don't want to start buying items chasing the problem when I don't know the answer. I have a new battery.
View 2 RepliesMy center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT