Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1993 F150 - E4OD Stalls Engine And Kills Power To Fuel Pump?
Jan 30, 2013
OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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I have a 1993 F150 that I have been working on. I have a set of complete doors off of a 1989 with Power Windows and locks hung on the truck and need to figure out how to power them up. Looking for access to a wiring diagram that will identify the colors of the wires in the doors. I don't care about the auto down and all of that ... not going to try and convert the whole truck with comp and all ... just want to make these function.
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I have 2 1986 Ford F250 supercab I switched cabs to put the better cab on my truck power windows wipers heater blower motor all light signals work no fuel gauge power or fuel pump power no power to the inertia switch
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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I have an 01' f150 that everything is going out on. I've replaced the GEM module thinking that's what it was to no avail. First thing to go was all four windows which have currently been stuck halfway down for 2 weeks. It's stalling out during idle like it isn't getting enough fuel to it. Brake and engine light on dash are staying on. Radio, interior lights won't come on. Will not come out of park once in. I have to do the old forward, back, middle key trick to get it out of park into neutral so I can start it and go. I've also checked all fuses and relays under dash and under Hood.
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My fuel gauge indicates empty at all times. The first suggestion I received was to replace the sending unit in the gas tank. I did that but the gauge still indicates empty.
I tried the HEC Dealer test mode and I now know that FUEL reads 255. Which should be an 'open' state. The connector near the fuel tank does appear to be making good contact, so my suspicion is a broken wire somewhere between the rear of the truck and the front.
I tried following the wire on it's way towards the front of the truck, but I quickly loose sight of the wire as more branches enter into the wiring harness. Where does this wire end? Does it terminate in the engine compartment, at the instrument cluster, somewhere else?
I just can't figure out how to narrow down where the break in the wire might be. Or am I chasing down the wrong root cause?
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger king cab 4x4 with a three inch lift kit on it . My problem is the fuse is blowing that goes to the fuel pump . It started out blowing the fuse now and then when it was raining . Well I thought it mite be the fuel pump going bad but after I put the new pump in the truck it lasted about a week and started blowing fuses again . I put another fuse in and it go a few days and blow it . Last week on a 100 mile tripe I got almost there and it burned a fuse on the highway . I tried to put another fuse in and it would blow it as soon as I tried to start the truck . Burned five fuses right then . So I had it towed to mothers house and put another fuse in and it cranked up . I looked at the wiring that was not wrapped in that plastic cover stuff and have not found anything yet ...
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I have a fuel pump I want to install I want to hook this thing up on a switch inside the cabin to be used as kind of a security device, but I am hoping I can wire it into the ignition as well.... I want the pump to activate when the ignition is turned on but only if the (hidden from view) switch is in the "on" position. Not sure if all this is possible.
I have heard I ought to utilize a relay to avoid voltage loss at the pump. I have never hooked up a relay to anything before although I have heard of them being used. This system is being installed on a 1967 F250.
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My vehicle would not turn over and we could tell it was fuel related. The fiel pump relay has burnt through the motherboard of the fusebox. It is my understanding that this cannot be fixedand another fusebox must be installed. I have been to many junkyards in my are looking for it to avoid the dealer prices..all of the expeditions that we have found locally have already had the fusebox pulled. Any other vehicles that this might be interchangable with? My friend has an 01 expedition..would this work?
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My 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
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The red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
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I have a need for a 12-volt signal to indicate the engine is in start or run mode. I would like to pull this from the engine compartment but I'm not sure what would be the best or easiest way to do this. The 12-volt signal is not used to power anything so it will draw very little current. I have a 94 F150.
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I have a 2011 Ford F150 FX4, And for a while now i have been having a issue with the gauge cluster.
while driving once in a while all of the gauge cluster turns off then back on within a couple of second. all the lights for the traction control, air bag, engine.... turn on and then turn off just like when you start the truck.
The issue only last for a couple of seconds. And it can go for a day before doing it. Brought it to the Ford dealership and they said unless the gauges are completely off there is nothing to go on by. Also once in awhile the check advancetrac comes on and will be off next time i start the truck. Same thing dealer said there was no codes and nothing then can do.
I checked all the connection at the fuse box, gauge cluster. and no issues. had the truck running and try wiggling all of the connectors, in the truck one by one with no success in duplicating the issue.
Also notice that once in awhile my signal light will flas extremely slow when having the blinker on.
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2000 XLT F150 4.6 - New starter & solenoid(s), battery cable & fuse links good.
When i turn the key, I hear one single click and the power cuts out entirely. I can't attempt a second start or turn on the lights or have any power going through the truck until I disconnect the battery for about 10 seconds then reconnect. Electrical becomes live again, then when the ignition is turned the electrical cuts out again. I do hear a single cluck at the starter (probably attempting to engage when it cuts out) and a clunk right at the inside fuse box (drivers side).
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Looking for a wiring diagram for a F-150 XLT LARIAT 5.8L 4BBL, all the books I have looked at show the wiring for this year with fuel injection and this truck came with a 351W with a Holley 600 4BBL, I have a few wire's in the engine compartment that melted away all the insulation, they are located close to where the harness passes the firewall before the ignition module. Is this a common problem on old models ?. Need a clear copy of the correct diagram for a f-150 1987 with carburetor, how I can get a copy so I can fix this problem before it gets worse.
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I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
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I noticed tonight, that my driver's side outside rear view mirror is no longer defrosting. I can't really say when it last worked, we haven't had much bad weather here, and just in the wildest case that it may be relevant, I just recently had my master cylinder replaced under the Ford Recall. Why a mirror would stop defrosting?
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1993 F150 302. What does the fuel canister purge solenoid/vac play in the furl/emissions arena?
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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