Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1992 F250 - No Start / Fuel Pump Runs All The Time When Key Is On
Jul 31, 2013
My 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
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I recently bought a 92 F250 and love it but the blinkers will not work. I have replaced both flashers and the multifunction switch. (the wipers had issues too that were fixed by the switch...) Now what? Im at a loss..
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I have a 70 Ford f250 with a messed up wiring harness. Truck will run only in start position. which wires are wrong.
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I have a 1994 Ford Ranger king cab 4x4 with a three inch lift kit on it . My problem is the fuse is blowing that goes to the fuel pump . It started out blowing the fuse now and then when it was raining . Well I thought it mite be the fuel pump going bad but after I put the new pump in the truck it lasted about a week and started blowing fuses again . I put another fuse in and it go a few days and blow it . Last week on a 100 mile tripe I got almost there and it burned a fuse on the highway . I tried to put another fuse in and it would blow it as soon as I tried to start the truck . Burned five fuses right then . So I had it towed to mothers house and put another fuse in and it cranked up . I looked at the wiring that was not wrapped in that plastic cover stuff and have not found anything yet ...
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I have 2 1986 Ford F250 supercab I switched cabs to put the better cab on my truck power windows wipers heater blower motor all light signals work no fuel gauge power or fuel pump power no power to the inertia switch
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Have a 06 and the dome lights stay on all the time. I had to pull the bulbs out of all of them. They would come on during the night and run my battery dead. The lights just come on while driving down the road and won't go off either. I can hear a clicking in the dash while driving where they are coming on and off from a really or something. Sounds to me like it's coming from the instrument cluster.
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I have a fuel pump I want to install I want to hook this thing up on a switch inside the cabin to be used as kind of a security device, but I am hoping I can wire it into the ignition as well.... I want the pump to activate when the ignition is turned on but only if the (hidden from view) switch is in the "on" position. Not sure if all this is possible.
I have heard I ought to utilize a relay to avoid voltage loss at the pump. I have never hooked up a relay to anything before although I have heard of them being used. This system is being installed on a 1967 F250.
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My vehicle would not turn over and we could tell it was fuel related. The fiel pump relay has burnt through the motherboard of the fusebox. It is my understanding that this cannot be fixedand another fusebox must be installed. I have been to many junkyards in my are looking for it to avoid the dealer prices..all of the expeditions that we have found locally have already had the fusebox pulled. Any other vehicles that this might be interchangable with? My friend has an 01 expedition..would this work?
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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1999 - F250 7.3L Crew/Longbed manual locks/windows ...
2x New Batteries a few days ago, same symptoms as old batteries ...
Sitting overnight loses .1 volt due to cooler temps in am measurement:
9pm 12.92v
7am 12.83v
11am 12.93v*
*won't start
The amp draw measured at 9pm and 11am is essentially zero (reading .06 or less, usually 0.00) on both cables exiting the passenger side battery. This is sitting for an hour plus with the hood courtesy bulb removed. (although it drops to near zero within a few minutes of the domes going off). Using a clamp around ammeter.
The alternator is charging (14+v reading while driving). When trickle charged overnight the truck starts fine. Plugging in the block heater makes no difference in starting (or not). 45 F overnight. When it doesn't start:
-double keying the glow plug light comes on
-tach needle bounces on crank
-voltage of 12.8 drops to 11.2 on glow plugs, then 10, then 7 while cranking
-sounds like it's almost going to catch, then bogs hard and the voltage really drops
Again, it starts fine when charged and starts after short trips (by virtue of my wife having made it home). Haven't tried to jump start as I don't have anything handy that is boss enough to jump one of these. Typical use during failure:
Charging with charger
Start
30 min to store
3 stores, start 3 times
30 min to home
Sit overnight
Won't start
This morning I checked that the battery terminals and battery clamps all had the exact same voltage. There are occasionally amps between the batteries (.37 to .08) measured on each end of the cable going over the radiator.
So, if there is no drain and the block heater doesn't work, but it starts fine if it hasn't been driven/sitting, what is next to check?
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95 ford f250 with 5.8l. I have currently replaced the battery, alternator, distributor, cap, rotor, icm, coil, plugs, wires, act sensor, ect sensor, fuel pump, fuel press regulator. I got it to start today by messing with timing at distributor it ran to operating temp and died. Would crank but not start.. So I replaced the act tensor today.. Now it still won't start... koeo test gives code 327... I am stumped and about to tow it away...
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I changed a fuel pump that a service shop said was bad. It would start and run for a few minutes and then stop. If it started at all. I dropped the tank and put a new pump in. The car did not start at all, not once. Not even fire. I had to install a new electrical connector inside the tank on the pump. The connector was different than the one in there. I connected black wire to black and grey to grey, thinking that made sense. Took off inline fuel filter next to tank. Had someone turn on key to see if fuel would come out. Nothing. But I did hear fuel running loudly through the return line. Which confused me at the time.
Thinking of it over night, could it be not likely, very likely those lines are in reverse, causing the pump to pump backwards. Which is why I heard fuel going through the return line? If this is the case I am going to try tomorrow to reverse the lines going into the tank. Instead of the fun of removing tank again. Why would pumps have black and grey wires that hook up differently?
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While the owner of 2 Ford Trucks, I also have a 2004 Ford Taurus with 28K on it. For a while now the vehicle is hard starting, cranks but acts like it is not getting fuel, however, I can hear the pump come on. Other times it starts right up, but a clicking sound can be heard coming from the firewall area. At times the gauges will not immediately respond when the Vehicle is started and then all at once they will begin to work. Now, my check engine light is on, but my hand held obd will not read it. All the terminal pins look great, obd tester works on my other two vehicles, cigar lighter working, the fuses i checked are good. Vehicle runs great. Can this all be related to a bad module?
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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Have and intermittent condition with my 1996 F-150 4.9. AC runs and then cuts out (compressor not turning). I lose 12v to both side of high side switch. I tried to troubleshoot using a schematic in Haynes Foprd Pickups and Bronco for 92 and later F-Series/Bronco, but the color code for the wiring doesn't match up.
On my truck, there is 2 wires from the low side pressure switch which mates to a socket with only 1 wire. I have 12 volts at switch terminal on dash control, and it seems that I have an broken wire behind the dash, as I can get it to operate again when I move the harness around. Where can I get a schematic of this part of the circuit?
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I have no left rear signal or brake lights. The right side works fine and both left/right tail lights work fine, just no left brake or signal. I checked for broken wires and can not find anything. 1992 Ford E50 7.5L.
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Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
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It started out w/ my wife swapping from the front fuel tank to the rear tank due to the fuel qty getting real low. Then the next day when I drove it I had bad fuel qty and amp meter indication, I found a blown fuse on my fuel qty/amp meter gauges. I replaced the fuse and got my indications back. Now I hear my front tank fuel pump is running constantly when selected to its position. Its now full of gas and still runs constantly. The rear tank/pump operates normal. I am wondering if I ran that pump empty and lost its prime? What is the best way to burp it?
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