Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1990 - Spark Plug Replaced Now Ticking Sound?
Nov 16, 2014
My truck is a 1990 F-150 with the 351. I was replacing the spark plugs last night, got it all wrapped up and everything squared away, and after firing the truck up I noticed a ticking noise. It was not there before I replaced the old plugs, and it is not at all loud. I can hardly hear it with the hood closed. It appears to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. It does not misfire when its idling, and it revs smoothly. However, while driving it is noticeably choppy and feels sluggish.
Any thoughts on what it could be? I used dielectric grease on the boots, but I did not replace the plug wires themselves, or the distributor cap. I am probably going to replace the plug wires today though, because the plugs I took out were not in good condition and its been a bit too long since I replaced them last. Its also worth noting this engine is less than years old. This is a frustrating problem because I've replaced the spark plugs on her before, so I'm not quite sure what I did wrong this time.
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I just bought a hard to start 1990 F250. Per the board, just replaced all 8 glow plugs with Motorcraft. Still wouldn't start (it turns over but will only start if you use either). I attempted to install a new BWD brand (Borg Warner I believe) glow plug connector relay today...I removed the old no problem, but am unsure what wires to plug where....the only connection that I'm sure about is the blue wire that works the WTS feature...it plugs in easily but I don't know if there are other connections that need to be made or not? All the wires run from the posts and into the bottom of the unit.
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I have a 1988 Bronco II 2.9 5 speed 4x4. Ive had it for about 2 years and the other day I put on a new cap and rotor and plug wires. I also cleaned the IAC. After that it ran fine for about a day and then I made a 2 hr trip and cut it off at a store. When i tried to recrank it, it just turned over and over and over for about 10 minutes and then it finally just cranked and ran like nothing was wrong. Its done the same thing twice since then (past 3 days) .
Yesterday when it did it, I pulled the coil wire and put a "spark tester" plug in the wire and tried cranking it. It only sparks right at the end when u quit cranking, itll spark 1 maybe 2 times. It'll crank if you just do a few short bursts of turning the ignition key to on. What else to check, or what the problem probably is? At first i was thinking it was the coil or module, but its only when cranking so maybe an ignition key problem or relay between there?
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My center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
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So I've been having problems with my old duraspark 2 ignition box and I replaced that but it didn’t seem to fix the problem. The truck doesn’t start if the voltage is down around 12v, it cranks but no spark. So I put it on the charger a couple hours ago and came inside and was reading old posts on here about testing the ignition system and then just went out to test the negative side of the coil with a test light and low and behold when my assistant went to crank it over the truck started right up like everything was fine. I took off the charger.
So then what I did was I checked the charge at the battery while the truck was running with a dvm and the voltage was 14.33 then I turned on the electric fan and it jumped up to 14.88 and spiked at 15 then held at 14.88. is that normal or is the voltage a little on the high side? If it is high then could it be the voltage regulator or alternator? And could that have been my problem all along instead of the ignition module?
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I bought a 84 ranger 2.0 that ran when parked sat for six months. Cranks all day long but only sparks when you shut the key off. Replaced the ignition switch (by key) ( someone told me there is another ignition switch under the dash?? is this true?) Tested the icm and it passed all wires seem to be fine. I am just wondering if something in the dizzy could cause this or possibly the starter solenoid?
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I have a friend of mine that has a 1983 and he had me change the water pump in it because it started leaking and it has been sitting for 7 Months now. I changed that but I can't get this bugger to start. I used to be a mechanic in a past life so I know what I'm doing most of the time so let me explain what has transpired here.
I attached my remote starter, turned on the key and cranked over the engine after shooting a little bit of starting fluid in the carb and she cranks over but won't start. I then pulled the #1 spark plug out and then did the same thing to check for spark and nada. I put my light tester on the coil and there was power. I have run into this kind of problem years ago with other vehicles so I thought I would just go ahead and replace the Coil and also the Control Module. After replacing these parts, still no spark. Since the distributor is there only to distribute the spark (meaning no electrical connections to it) I'm assuming that the Pick Up part that is down by the Crank shaft might be bad.
How to test either the Control Module or the pick up. I'm trying to diagnose this problem without needing to remove the module and taking them to the parts house for testing. (long drive). These wires should have 12 volts when the key is off and these wires should have 12 volts when the key is on.... and so on.
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I have a 1990 F-350 7.3 lariat crew cab. The tail lights fail to work but all the turn signal and brake lights work. I changed the light switch located to the left of the steering wheel but that didn't solve the problem. all the fuses under the dash appear to be ok to. Is there another fuse for just the tail lights.
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I have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
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So I bought my 1987 F150 XLT 4X4 (4spd) about two weeks ago and haven't had any issues with it so far... until now. As soon as I got it I did a full tune up. Changed plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, new battery, sea foamed it, fuel filter, ran a bottle of fuel stabilizer through it, new pvc valve, cleaned the throttle body, oil change, etc., ( all the usual things).
Was running fine up until two days ago when I was driving down the highway doing about 90km/hr in 4th when the truck suddenly lost power, sputtered and died. Tried to start it again and it will turn over but not start. So I get a nice expensive tow home and start to diagnose the problem. It is not a fuel issue. I can hear the pumps coming on, and fuel is coming out of the fuel filter so I cross that off the list.
Next I check for spark. No spark at all. So I run some tests. Battery is putting out 12V, about 10 when cranking. The solenoid is getting power and putting out power. No visible damage to any of the wiring, and all the grounds look good.
Next I just went ahead and swapped out the coil thinking that could be the issue. Didn't work. So I preform some more tests on the old and new coils. Both are grounded and having voltage pass through them. Next I take the TFI module off the distributor and check for resistance. Everything still checks out fine. Now I am thinking that the only thing left could be the PIP in the distributor. So instead of taking the dist apart and screwing around I go ahead a get a brand new dist and throw it in.
Now I am stoked and thinking that I finally fixed my truck and go to start it up and.... no spark. It still turns over but no start. I am trying to provide every bit of detail that I can. When I say I tested all the components I mean I REALLY tested them. I did both tests from the Haynes manual and from various sources off this site.
I am almost at the point of getting it towed to the shop, which I really do not want to do. A day before this happened I degreased the engine and VERY carefully sprayed it off with water. In the process I am thinking I may have damaged something?
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1996 Ford F150 5.0 ... New battery, new alternator, new starter, new coil, dis cap good and rotor is good. New plugs and wires. Ignition mod tested good.
Drove a mile from my house and lost power to my engine. Lights and radio work. Just sits there and cranks and cranks. I'm not getting spark from the coil. Don't know a lot about engines.
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I have an 86 f250 i just bought back with no spark. this truck is not original. used to be a diesel. has a 400 out of 81 f250. had this truck running just fine 4 years ago. sold it to a guy running and bought it back 4 yrs later not running.
Checked all the connection to make sure they r clean. Had the ignition modular tested and tested good. I have 12+ volts from the white and red wire. I have a little over 6 volts at the bat side of the coil. I have no spark from the coil. I notice every time I connect and disconnected the bat cable I will get a spark from the coil. i ran a test light from the tack test sight on the coil and tried to start and the light stayed real dim and never flickered.
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I recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
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I have a 77 ford truck with a 351 ,the ignition system keeps shorting out, killing spark. If i replace the starter solenoid, it works for a while, then goes out again. I have replaced 4 solenoids this month. What could be shorting the solenoid out? Had the truck for 8 yrs. now, never had a problem with it till now. It has a mallory dist. it was in when i bought it.
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My '84 F150 4X4 inline 6 Died last night while driving. just conked out and died right there on the spot. no sputter... no gasping... just instant death...
after some investigation i found i wasn't getting spark anywhere. not at the plugs, not at coil. I have replaced the ignition module to no avail. still no spark I am going to swap in a the coil tonight. sure do hope this works.
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2003 f350 6.0l single alternator. Replaced alternator a couple weeks ago with one from napa, noticed a humming with key on and the engine off . Traced it to the alternator, called napa they said it was not normal come get a replacement, put the new one on same thing. Charging in the 13.5 to 14v range the case of the alternator seems to get hot quickly when running.
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I have a 63 Falcon that the generator went out on. I replaced the generator and the regulator and it still isn't charging. A friend of mine told me if I disconnect the FLD at the generator and connect a jumper between FLD and the battery + terminal it should start charging which it does. I have swapped out two different generators and regulators now and it is still doing it.
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Only numbers 1,2,5 match the diagram below. my 6,7,8 are BK/W, PK/B, BR/PK. My Sony CD player came with bare wires. So I could cut off the truck oem plug. How hard is it to find a plug that goes from my OEM plug to my Sony CD player?
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I had the windshield wiper control replaced on my 91 F150 today and found out that the genius who did the repair (and, I might add, broke the wiper control in the first place) forgot to reconnect the dash lights. This was this particular garage's last chance. Everything else works -- idiot lights, hi-beam indicator, running lights, taillamps, hi-beams -- everything BUT the dash lights, so I know it's not the fuse.
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I have a hyundai accent 2005 sedan (automatic transmission). The vehicle is a NON-US model. My gas consumption is approximately 7.3km per litre which is very high.
The spark plugs have been replaced , tires are at 30psi , and air filter is new. The spark plug cables are also new. The obdII device does not detect any issues and the engine check light is also off.
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I have a 1.8i golf 3.... I am Getting the ticking noise from the engine/head, not really sure what it is. I went to one mechanic who said it was the hydraulic lifters which i did change but no difference.
the noise gets louder when i accelerate even when parked, what i have noticed is when I accelerate when driving the noise gets louder and when i put my clutch in to change a gear the noise starts to drop but makes some kind of a winding noise.
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