Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1988 - Headlights On Driver Side Blinker Does Not Work At All
Mar 4, 2016
88 f250 5.0 when my headlights are on my driver side blinker doesn't work at all but with lights off it does also with the blinker on the dash blinks with the blinker also I'm lost. Also when I turn my key on the windshield wipers wanna turn on
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Ok, I admit this isn't on a Ford, it's my old man's 1970 AMX, but it's an odd electrical problem we can't figure out. The front right blinker works fine when the headlights are OFF but when the headlights are on it doesn't blink. The other three work as they should. He has tried new bulbs, ohmed and voltage tested the sockets. Ohm reading was around 1-2ohms and voltage was 9v.
The voltage also fluctuated when the blinker was on but when you put a bulb in it didn't blink. He has noted the bulb on the passenger side is brighter than the other side. He's trying to get it ready to take to Pigeon Forge next weekend for a car show and I 4.5 hours away. What could be going on??? Could a bad headlight switch cause this? Bad socket?
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Series 7 , 82 model, light switch drama. I think they worked fine before I had removed the dash but it has a multi plug that I never interfered with but the truck had been in water and the contacts on it were rusty and I know the unit has been submerged.
Anyway, the unit clicks and sort of buzzes and the headlights and side lights flicker and the rear LED lights barely flicker, need to watch closely. I have cleaned and used contact fluid all connections under the truck as I washed it the other day too.
Brake lights work perfectly, indicators too, just associated lights from this pull switch. The unit gets hot, not burning hot but hot enough not to hold for too long. So, thoughts ?
Need new unit ?
Touched something ?
Water ingress finally making unit fail ?
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I have a 2002 Camry LE, and the rear driver's side blinker does not work properly, I mean that I have replaced the bulb, and it will work rarely.
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I wired up a new set of halo projector headlights. I put in load resistors for the led marker/blinker bulbs I purchased. I tested the resistors and after a few minutes I hooked up the halos for the headlights into the running lights. Noticed the resistors were pretty hot, burned my hand. I then accidentally touched the hot marker wire to the ground. That popped the fuse under the hood. But now that same side blinker. Same wires I grounded that also got hot. Blinker stays on, light on dash too. Checked blinker relay it's fine.
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I just bought a used 1999 F-150 Supercab (V6) less than a month ago. As used, of course, I received no warranty of any kind. Yesterday, I found I could no longer roll down the driver's side power window. Whenever I push the button, it makes a clicking sound in the fuse box. The problem is, the fuse for the power windows covers both driver and passenger sides, but the passenger side works fine.
I did notice that there is a black plug called a Relay that affects the Auto Down power window feature. Since the driver's side is the only window with Auto Down, I'm hoping maybe that relay just needs replaced, and everything will magically work again??? I'm NOT a car/truck nut - I don't even know how to change my own oil.
I recently had a power window motor on my 1995 Thunderbird replaced. I'm hoping I don't have to do that already, just a month in to my F-150. But on my T-Bird, there was no clicking in the fuse box when I tried to window.
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I've got an 06 F-250 and out of nowhere the drivers side window does not operate. I don't hear the motor operating (or trying to operate.) So I opened the trim piece and removed and reinserted the plug for the two forward switches, no change.
Surprisingly we are expecting more rain in So Cal in the middle of April tonight and I'm wondering how to by pass the switch, to at least get the window in the up position to keep the weather and the natives out.
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I drive a 2004 Ford Ranger. When I use the remote to unlock my truck, there is a grinding electrical sound, and the driver side door does not unlock. The passenger side does, though. Also, when I try to use my key to unlock the door, the driver's side door will not unlock with the key. I can open the driver's side door from the inside by using the handle, but the electric lock button will not unlock the door. It seems like the piece that pops up when the truck is unlocked has a hard time raising to unlock the door. Neither my boyfriend nor I can figure out what the problem is. I find that when I take my truck in for any problem, people at the dealership try to take advantage of the fact that I'm female and don't know much about cars. Need to know what is going on before I take it in anywhere to get fixed.
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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.
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I have an '88 E-250 with no power to accessories. Was starting fine but now no power to anywhere but the ignition light that is below and to the left of the steering wheel. No headlights or radio. Checked my fusible links but just visual so gotta get the meter out there and start poking around. Only thing I did different before it started this was take loose the ground wire holding strap that holds the middle of the ground wire to the body but I didn't think this was an actual ground spot but I could be wrong.
Earlier I reinstalled that strap and took out the ignition switch. I noticed that the radio turned on when I turned the key to acc. but not when I turned it to run. Would the headlights run through this ignition switch on the column? I have power to the yellow wires coming into the switch and the ground is good. I checked the fusible links I could find out in the engine bay and all tested good but could've missed some. Fuses in the box looked good but don't know if there is a master fuse box for bigger fuses but I don't see one.
1988 E-250 5.8 auto.
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1980 F-250, 351M. Battery tests OK - 500 cold cranking amps. New starter, new starter solenoid. When I turn the key to ignition, small click under the hood on driver's side. Turn to start, the starter solenoid clicks once, but no turnover. After that, all electrical is dead - no lights, no horn, no radio, no clicks. Turn the key to accessory, gauges work, but no radio, etc. Turn the key to ignition, nothing. Tried jumping from another car, and the cables melted.
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I recently purchased a 95 F150 regular cab. The door jamb switch on the drivers side was broken. I removed the inside kick panel and found the switch badly burned and the wiring also burned. I purchased a new switch and found the socket with wires at LMC. The question is where do the wires go? Can I splice them in somewhere?
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One for the "books"! Days ago tried to start her up...nothing. Engine turned like crazy but wouldn't run. Sounded just like it sounded when the fuel pump in the tank went out. Anyways, getting plenty of fuel, getting spark from the coil. Figured the ignition module was bad. Took it to Autozone and checked it...was good. Figure it was the pick up coil so bought one. Pulled Distributor, Ford didn't drill hole for the roll pin all the way through. Decided to drill it out, broke 3 bits. Bought new Distributor and installed. Crankshaft setting on 10 degrees BTDC. Rotor is pointing straight at #1 terminal. Getting air, fuel, and spark...cranks but wont start! Changed ignition switch under the steering column 5 years ago, have never changed the key and tumbler. When i turn the key gas gauge works. All my stuff works...lights, heater, horn, signals. cd player. All fuses and relays working. Computer is grounded.
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I noticed tonight, that my driver's side outside rear view mirror is no longer defrosting. I can't really say when it last worked, we haven't had much bad weather here, and just in the wildest case that it may be relevant, I just recently had my master cylinder replaced under the Ford Recall. Why a mirror would stop defrosting?
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85 f150. My driver side brake light and turn signal in the back quit working. The tail light works tho which is a different filament. The bulb is good and I changed the flasher relay...the circle thing in the fuse panel. Everything else works just fine. looking for a starting point.
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My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
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2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
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I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
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I've been wondering about this issue for about a year now. I haven't torn out the stereo to see if the wiring is jacked up (came with the truck). When I have the truck running and the radio is on I pull the light switch and the radio turns off, then turns back on...... The radio also buzzes when the truck is running, kind of like it has a bad ground but I've checked the grounds and powers and all is good.
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Here's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
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On my 2002 Ford Escape my high lights do not illuminate. I changed the light but it does not light up.
On the dashboard, the little blue light does not turn either to indicate that the switch is high.
Is this a relay, where it is placed? Otherwise what would be the problem?
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