Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1988 E250 - No Power To Accessories


Jul 16, 2015

I have an '88 E-250 with no power to accessories. Was starting fine but now no power to anywhere but the ignition light that is below and to the left of the steering wheel. No headlights or radio. Checked my fusible links but just visual so gotta get the meter out there and start poking around. Only thing I did different before it started this was take loose the ground wire holding strap that holds the middle of the ground wire to the body but I didn't think this was an actual ground spot but I could be wrong.

Earlier I reinstalled that strap and took out the ignition switch. I noticed that the radio turned on when I turned the key to acc. but not when I turned it to run. Would the headlights run through this ignition switch on the column? I have power to the yellow wires coming into the switch and the ground is good. I checked the fusible links I could find out in the engine bay and all tested good but could've missed some. Fuses in the box looked good but don't know if there is a master fuse box for bigger fuses but I don't see one.

1988 E-250 5.8 auto.

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'03 E250 connector C3136 located by the left lower B Pillar---have lost power to the Brown wire which seems to be designated as Circuit 124.

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Looking to replace the on-board 4-way flashing system with Whelen strobes and looking to have the column mounted button be the on/off switch for that power supply. I have a schematic from a '97 E250 (almost identical FWIW) which I can post the pin out, test procedure and EVTM version of the hazard portion of that Multi Function Switch if that's useful.

I know it would be far, far less complicated to control the Whelen via a separate switch but this above reversible mod would be somewhat cool IMHO.

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I got my first truck today and it's a 1988 Ford F-150 and it runs great! The only issue is that the speedometer doesn't work and I won't be able to register it until it does. I was wondering what I can try out to maybe fix the issue and if not, how I would replace it. Every other gauge works, it's just the speedometer that isn't. The needle doesn't move at all it just sits at a 0 all the time.

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1988 - Won't Run - Crankshaft Setting On 10 Degrees BTDC?

One for the "books"! Days ago tried to start her up...nothing. Engine turned like crazy but wouldn't run. Sounded just like it sounded when the fuel pump in the tank went out. Anyways, getting plenty of fuel, getting spark from the coil. Figured the ignition module was bad. Took it to Autozone and checked it...was good. Figure it was the pick up coil so bought one. Pulled Distributor, Ford didn't drill hole for the roll pin all the way through. Decided to drill it out, broke 3 bits. Bought new Distributor and installed. Crankshaft setting on 10 degrees BTDC. Rotor is pointing straight at #1 terminal. Getting air, fuel, and spark...cranks but wont start! Changed ignition switch under the steering column 5 years ago, have never changed the key and tumbler. When i turn the key gas gauge works. All my stuff works...lights, heater, horn, signals. cd player. All fuses and relays working. Computer is grounded.

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1988 - Headlights On Driver Side Blinker Does Not Work At All

88 f250 5.0 when my headlights are on my driver side blinker doesn't work at all but with lights off it does also with the blinker on the dash blinks with the blinker also I'm lost. Also when I turn my key on the windshield wipers wanna turn on

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Ford A/C :: 1988 E250 - Rear Heater Core Is Getting Coolant Flow Constantly

Okay, the vehicle is a 1988 E250 ClubWagon 7.3 IDI diesel with front and rear AC/heat. I have 3 questions for you:

1. I found that the rear heater core is getting coolant flow constantly which is making my rear AC blow 75* air. These models don't have a blend door in the back, they appear to have a valve that is only allows coolant flow to the rear heater core when the heat is turned on. Problem is that I can't seem to find where this valve is located on the van or what it is called to locate it at a parts store. Where on my van this valve is located?

2. My rear blower only functions on High. I know there is a resistor set up in the rear that controls the blower speed. Before I just replace this, is there a way that I can test it?

3. Is it possible that the Resistor setup for the rear fan speed would also be causing the rear coolant flow valve to not work? I know it's a long shot, but does the valve signal flow through it when the AC is on to tell the coolant valve to shut?

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Jeep - Cherokee :: 1995 - Electrical Accessories Won't Work When First Starting

I have a 95 Jeep Cherokee that has a strange electrical problem. When I first turn the car on after it has been sitting for several hours, the following accessories do not work:- Air conditioner/Ventilation- Wipers- Cigarette lighter

There are two really odd things going on here: The first is that the radio will not work if any of the above three things are turned on, but it WILL work if they are all turned off. For example, with the wipers and AC off, and cell charger unplugged from the lighter, the radio will turn on. As soon as I plug the charger in, or turn on the wipers or AC, the radio goes off. None of these accessories actually turn on, but simply being putting them in the "on" position kills the radio until they are switched off.

The second weird thing is that after a few minutes of driving, everything will return to working as normal - radio, AC, lighter, etc. They continue to work until the next time the car has been sitting for several hours, at which point the same problem repeats.

FYI, I recently replaced the alternator to address an unrelated issue, but it did not make a difference with this one.

I searched the car talk forums for similar issues, but did not have any luck - while it does look like there are some other Chrysler vehicles that have electrical problems, I couldn't find anything dealing with an intermittent problem.

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At this point I am just throwing parts at it. This past weekend I replaced the ignition tumbler, the ignition switch on the column and today I replaced the EEC relay. When I check voltage to the stater solenoid I get voltage to both sides??? I also get voltage from the red ignition wire to the top of the solenoid. Otherwise have zero power to the rest of the truck. No radio, no dome lights, no headlights, power locks, power windows or back glass. What gives?

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So, after I had messed with everything I could think of, I thought, OK new DVD/Stereo time.

I checked fuse #32 which was the fuse to my stereo. The fuse is fine...BUT...There's no friggen power to the fuse via my test light. Test light works on other fuse spots so I know i"m not getting power to the fuse #32.

Since I don't have any power to this fuse....WHAT NOW???? How to trouble shoot this problem?

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