Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1986 - Starter Continues To Turn Over Even After The Engine Fires
May 10, 2013
1986 ford f150 standard cab, manual trans with 3 plus overdrive.
1989 302 rebuild v8. When trying to start occasionally the ignition continues to turn over..
Even after the engine fires, the starter continues to turn over until I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Then it fires up fine afterwards what could the problem be.
I'm thinking the starter, or the ignition switch but I also heard it could be the starter solenoid.
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Okay, my 1986 f150 with a 351w (non-feedback carbed) Has no lights on the cluster, and none of the gauges work (haven't tested the speedo yet, truck is not registered yet).
I also have a minor issue with the turn signals... Fronts work, no rears. The left turn indicator light on the dash does not come on but the right turn one does. All my "primary lights" (markers, tail, headlights) work fine. I have not yet tested the brake lights.
Fuses all look good, truck did have some roof leaks. I've done some research, does this sound like the dreaded voltage regulator issue for the gauges?
My assumption for the left turn indicator light is that there is a replaceable bulb in the dash (probably blown), is that right? Rear signals might be wiring (PO installed his own trailer wiring) or bulbs? haven't gotten that far into it yet...
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I have a 1976 Ford F100 with a 302 and my problem is sometimes when my engine is running and I try to cut it off, it continues to run and the only way to stop it is to jerk the coil wire off. This is an intermittent problem. Happens about every 6 or 7 times I drive it. I have replaced the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Pretty sure it is some type wiring or ground issue, just need someplace to start.
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I have an 86 f250 i just bought back with no spark. this truck is not original. used to be a diesel. has a 400 out of 81 f250. had this truck running just fine 4 years ago. sold it to a guy running and bought it back 4 yrs later not running.
Checked all the connection to make sure they r clean. Had the ignition modular tested and tested good. I have 12+ volts from the white and red wire. I have a little over 6 volts at the bat side of the coil. I have no spark from the coil. I notice every time I connect and disconnected the bat cable I will get a spark from the coil. i ran a test light from the tack test sight on the coil and tried to start and the light stayed real dim and never flickered.
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The truck has a 300 straight 6 and runs pretty good until you turn the headlights on or anything that uses current for that matter ie. Radio , Fan ect. But is worst with lights. Just got the truck last week and can't seem to figure this one out.
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here its is i have a 1986 ford f350 6.9 aftermarket turbo set up i was driving it then i went over rail road tracks lost all power to fuse box no headlights no interior lights no ignition power batteries are good so now when i turn key nothing lights up it just killed my whole truck....
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I'm working on a 289 from a 65 Fairlane; When I attempt to start the engine it will turn over however, it will not start. I can switch it on and jump it with a screw driver and it starts right up. It started once with the key so I don't think it's the wiring. I don't want to start buying items chasing the problem when I don't know the answer. I have a new battery.
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My turn signals will not work with the engine running. With the engine off they will. With the engine running if I move the ignition like I am going to turn it off they work.. Is it the ignition switch or ign cylinder....
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I just replaced my starter solenoid and I'm getting nothing. When 12 volts are applied directly from the battery to the solenoid, the engine wants to turn (granted my batteries are weak) however when I turn the key to start, after waiting for the "wait to start" light to go off and hearing the glow plug click, I turn the key and I get absolutely nothing. No click, nothing. Is there a possibility my ignition is bad?
Would the "wait to start" and glow plug keep working if this were true? Electrical is not exactly my forte'. Before I replaced the solenoid, the bad one had a broken post but the truck would still start most of the time, and when it wouldn't I just connected the two large posts on the solenoid with channel locks or pliers or whatever was handy. I put the new one in exactly the same way the old one came out. I only undid one bolt and set of wires at a time so I wouldn't screw the order up, so I'm at a loss.
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I have a 1979 f-250 4x4 with a 351m. The problem I am having is my starter keeps running after the truck starts and also after I shut off the key. I didn't get the battery unhooked in time today and it completely melted the lug off on the solenoid, but the other wires were barley warm. What could be causing this problem? The battery is new, the cables are new and the Sol. was new. Maybe the switch or the starter?
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What PMGR starters are comnpatable with 351W?
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2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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The tail lights do not turn off- the head lights do not turn on. every fuse was pulled and still the tail lights stayed on. Headlight switch was swapped out with a new one to eliminate it with no different result. No modifications known to have been made to the electrical system. This thing did spend a lot of time in NY state, so corrosion is likely. But this does not explain how/why the tail lights would stay on even if the headlight switch was off... IMO this would have to be an ignition switch issue.
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Wipers work in all modes, but won't shut off. I was told there should be a shut off in the wiper motor that's not working. Would I be able to splice in a shut off switch, where is the best place?
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I must be missing something here. Where is the flasher for the turn signals? It isn't the two relays behind the radio is it?
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I have a 2006 f150. Both front turn signals do not work. I replaced bulbs still nothing. There back signals do work. They blink really fast.
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I just bought a 99 Explorer v8 2wd to replace my aging aerostar and to tow my boat. I already knew it had this problem and a destroyed rear diff when I bought it, I figured this would be the easiest problem with just a new switch. I was wrong.
pulled the fuze
pulled the headlight switch
pulled the relays at: power dist. box, keyless entery/alarm?, the box under the dash
disconnected the harness from the GEM behind the dash and from the keyless entery/alarm
Lights only go out when I pull the park lamp relay. I know what you may be thinking. But no. Its still not gonna be that easy. The relay is not bad or being activated. Its just acting as a jumper from pin 4 to 3. So out comes the test light.
At the park lamp relay (without the relay in)on the relay module I get power at 1, 5, and 4. When I ground 2 with the test light, the headlight relay kickes on. Which seems normal to me by my assumption of how the system works. Which is that these relays are only for the RAP module to flash the lights by grounding the 2 pin. Anyway... I think I've narrowed it down.
According to the wiring diagrams, the 4 pin should only get power from the headlight switch and the GEM from a white/black stripe wire. With the relay in (only to jump the power)I have unplugged both the headlight switch and GEM, and the lights stay on and there is power at 4. I figured the white/black wire may have a short to 12v and I would just bypass it. Then today I can disconnect the battery, then reconnect it and the lights will stay off. Keep in mind all other relays are out and everything is unplugged. If I plug the headlight switch back in, cycle the switch, the lights will go on and off correctly, but will eventually stay on. Even after removing the head light switch.
Does the white/black wire go to anything other than the switch, GEM, or relay. It doesn't say so in the diagram but I can't figure out why its getting power intermittently. Still thinking it could be a short I did a wiggle test on the dash harness to try to get them to come on if off or off if on. Nothing.
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Long story short, my truck's front turn signals and rear turn signals/tail lights won't work. I am thinking that the relay is burnt. Whenever I look in the manual I can't seem to find the location for this relay. Is is built into the flasher?
Also, I am just assuming because the rear turn signals and tail lights are the same bulb that fixing this should clear up both problems. Am I right in thinking that?
I have already checked all of the fuses. Also, the Hazards don't work either.
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First off my driver side brake light with stop working. I took it apart to try and find the short. In the process I shorted out all my running lights tail lights and brake lights and turn signals I think also. While I was looking for the short, turn signal wire from my tail light touched the frame and grounded out and that's when all the lights died . My tail lights are some cheap trailer lights without reverse lights. I pulled headlight switch from another Ford truck I have. On the harness connector that connects to the switch which wires should read what when I test with a voltmeter?I checked the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood and they were good. Truck has a flat bed so I don't know if that matters with the wiring, I suspect it's different then a normal bed truck. Wiring on the bed is old, maybe from 94. I am unexperienced with electrical.
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