Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1984 - Clicking Sound Under Dash?
Feb 8, 2013
I have a '84 Bronco and before I redid all the ignition wiring when I turned off the key the engine would stay running for about 6 seconds and then turn off. Now when I turn off the key and turn off a switch about 6-8 seconds later I here a click sound that comes from under and about center of the dash. And sometimes it clicks on and off in rapid secession kind of like when you flip a light switch on and off quickly. Some days it does it and some days it don't.
If I leave the battery hooked up then it drains the battery overnight or within a day, and sometimes its just fine. So to be safe I unhook the battery whenever its not being driven or started periodically. I am wondering what is in the center of the dash that needs power and that controls the ignition stuff?
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In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
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I bought a 84 ranger 2.0 that ran when parked sat for six months. Cranks all day long but only sparks when you shut the key off. Replaced the ignition switch (by key) ( someone told me there is another ignition switch under the dash?? is this true?) Tested the icm and it passed all wires seem to be fine. I am just wondering if something in the dizzy could cause this or possibly the starter solenoid?
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My indicator lights are all out. The turn signals work correctly, as do the dash lights themselves, but all of the warning lights are out. The truck sat for three years and I have just gotten it back on the road.
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My '84 F150 4X4 inline 6 Died last night while driving. just conked out and died right there on the spot. no sputter... no gasping... just instant death...
after some investigation i found i wasn't getting spark anywhere. not at the plugs, not at coil. I have replaced the ignition module to no avail. still no spark I am going to swap in a the coil tonight. sure do hope this works.
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There is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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The battery light is on in my dash. To test it I probed the car battery with a multimeter. Car off the battery reads 12.5 volts. With the car running and no headlights on, heater fan off, etc the meter reads 15-15.5volts. When I turn everything electrical I can think of on the meter reads 14-14.5volts. Is this normal or is the second scenario overcharging the battery? What else can I test that may be keeping the battery light on in the dash?
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I have a 1991 idi diesel f250. My dash lights have entirely gone out and i cannot seem to figure out why, i checked the fueses under the driver dash and under the hood for that matter and nothing is blown.
At the same time, the dome lights, door lights, cab lights, stereo, windows, ever the light in the ash trey etc, work perfectly fine. Could a wire have come loose behind the dash cluster and shorted out everything in the driver area?
I still get the high beam signal, check engine, engine, wait to start, and water in fuel light in the cluster. but no back lighting (when turning the key to the on position)...
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When the 4x4 switch is moved to 4x4 high, what is the sequence of operation?
I note the 4x4 light on the dash has a small delay. Does the switch engage the transfer case and draw a vacuum to the hubs or does the transfer case engage first and then close a relay to light on the dash and engage the hubs? I have hubs that are not working, but no detectable vacuum leak, a dash signal lit for the 4x4, but a wheel still turning freely. My vacuum hoses are all soft and pliable.
I'm trying to figure out what my dash signal is telling me, if anything, before proceeding. Fuse for transfer case is good.
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1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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Dash lights are not working in my 78 F150. The climate control lights come on and are dimable with the headlight switch. I pulled the cluster and the Blue/Red wire has voltage. Which might be the ground? The Seat belt light comes on at start and the left turn signal will blink. What am I missing. Oh the cluster is deteriorating. some of the bulb holes are chipping out.
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I have an 2015 450 chassis Class C motorhome. The backup camera is integrated into the Pioneer stereo in the dash. The stereo is wired into the headlight switch to automatically dim the display when the lights are turned on. Since I always drive with my headlights turned on, this makes it nearly impossible to see the screen during the daytime.
I learned from Pioneer what to do to disable this feature, but need to install a switch in the circuit to do this. I'm hoping to install a simple on/off toggle switch into the dashboard's existing space. In the picture below, I'm wanting to put the switch into the "round" hole marked Audio Jack.
My question is how do I get the "round plug" out of this hole? And need to know the diameter of the existing hole?
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I have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
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Really need diagnosing an on going electrical problem I'm having. It's on a 05 X 4x4 V10 with almost 113k miles.
Background : Last summer took a road trip and alternator went out and was replaced. On that trip started seeing problems with my cruise control, when the headlights(HID's) turn on they dim the dash, and hi's cause the speedometer and other gauges to quickly flux and then go back to proper readings.
Everything was "alright" in the sense that the only problems were those stated above. Well tuesday night on my way home from school, I was driving on the surface streets, stopped at a light.....then all of a sudden the battery symbol on the dash flashed and no more than a second later, the car stopped. All dash lights/radio (double din) still on and headlights still on, but couldn't start the X at all.
Was able to wait a bit and once my parents got there it did start and I was able to pull off to the side and diagnose it a little better, dad looked at it and at the moment couldn't really tell what would be wrong. I had him drive it home for me though. It's been starting fine again but I have NO CLUE as to what to look for and really would like to find out what's happening.
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2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 on it. Daily driver. Keeps randomly blowing 10A fuse under dash that controls ABS4X4 urn signals. No routine causes. Just blows at random times. Fuses were blowing instantly upon replacing then stopped. Doesn't blow when turning switches for turn signals or when turning it to 4x4. Just does it randomly. Sometimes will go months without blowing. Tore dash apart and can't find any wiring issues there. Could be somewhere else? Is ABS4X4. Turn signals going bad?
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Looking for a schematic on this truck,standard cab diesel. I have a dead short on exterior lamp fuse. I have no tail lights, running lights, door ajar light is also on.
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OK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
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I had the windshield wiper control replaced on my 91 F150 today and found out that the genius who did the repair (and, I might add, broke the wiper control in the first place) forgot to reconnect the dash lights. This was this particular garage's last chance. Everything else works -- idiot lights, hi-beam indicator, running lights, taillamps, hi-beams -- everything BUT the dash lights, so I know it's not the fuse.
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What the code "32" means for the airbag? Lately my airbag light on the dash will blink 3-2 for several cycles then stays on solid til I shut down the truck.
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Tried to start my truck after sitting for 2 days in sub zero weather. wouldn't crank. pulled the batteries and charged them over night. Tried to start it the next day-wouldn't crank but the starter relay clicked. Was going to pull the starter and check it but decided to replace the relay first. replaced it and tried to start but now have no power to the cab-nothing comes on. I've checked the batteries with a load tester and they are ok. I've checked the fuses and they seem to be ok. when I tried to start it and the relay clicked there was a loud buzzing noise that seemed to be coming from under the dash. it has done this before but this time was louder than usual. I live out in the sticks so taking it somewhere is a last resort. It is a 1999 7.3 with 290000 miles.
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